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    Results 1 to 11 of 11
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
      Country Flag: United States

      inspecting a 69 c10

      So I just saw a 69 C10 for $2000 that doesn't look bad. I'm not expecting it to be some fantastic diamond in the rough. However, what should I look for if I decide to inspect it closer up? I'm looking for model specific problems. I've looked at so many used cars before so that's nothing new. I just do not know these trucks.



      Thanks
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Location
      Birmingham, AL
      Posts
      3,355
      Country Flag: United States
      From what I have seen, you have to look at the rockers and the cab corners. A nice thing about trucks is that most of the sheetmetal is replaceable without too much trouble but that would really cut into your budget.
      Stephen

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Location
      AZ
      Posts
      801
      Country Flag: United States
      Cab corners, rockers and front inner fender to the firewall are the worst. If the drip rail has been removed check the inside of the doors if at all possible.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Miami
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by srh3trinity View Post
      From what I have seen, you have to look at the rockers and the cab corners. A nice thing about trucks is that most of the sheetmetal is replaceable without too much trouble but that would really cut into your budget.
      agree 100% those areas are where they get lots of rust for some reason other than that super easy fix and EVERYTHING is available for them also as already mentione the inner fenders core support and battery tray thats about it.....good luck..

      check out www.67-72chevytrucks.com great website and super nice members in there that we could all help you with any ???'s
      "Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please"

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Sandy, OR
      Posts
      383
      Also make sure and check the cab mounts as they tend to rust out as well. Good thing is that parts are fairly cheap.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks guys. I may have gotten a little too excited as I simply don't think now is a good time to get a project. I'll see what tomorrow brings though.

      Thanks guys
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Apr 2004
      Location
      OKC, OK
      Posts
      3,739
      Country Flag: United States
      All the stuff mentioned is common and parts are cheap to fix. If it has rot in the cowl, walk away
      Mike Redpath
      Musclerodz & Customz
      405-288-0189
      pro-touring parts specialists
      Musclerodz.com

      facebook page
      http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Mus...73054649402015
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      Musclerodz

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
      Country Flag: United States
      Ok I can't ignore this, lol. I found another c10 for 2k. This one actually looks even better than the last one. This is even a long bed which is what I prefer. So check out the ad and tell me if I am crazy for thinking this is a good deal or at least worth looking into.

      http://westslope.craigslist.org/cto/1895688506.html

      Thanks
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Location
      Dallas, TX
      Posts
      260
      I've learned with Craigslist, you never know what you are looking at until you look at it. If you're looking for a long bed, you're more likely to find deals vs the guys looking for short bed or step side.

      That being said, the second I get my Chevelle to the point of drivable again, I'm going to be looking for a C10 of the 67-72 vintage too. They're cheap, they're some of the best looking trucks GM has ever made (to me), and with a LS 5.3L swap, they'd be a killer daily driver on the cheap Good luck, and watch out for rust under the truck (I can't imagine what salted roads do to old sheet metal)
      '69 Chevelle - LQ4/T56
      '71 GMC SWB Fleetside - LM7/AR5

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
      Country Flag: United States
      Grand Junction is mainly desert. Supposedly there will be some snow but nothing major inside the valley here. From what I have been seeing so far of the vintage and older cars in this area, rust is not an issue. It would appear rust is more of an issue back home in the southeast than out here in the valley. Being in the valley is the key. Get outside the valley and it's terribly cold with lots of snow.
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins

    11. #11
      Join Date
      May 2008
      Posts
      42
      Quote Originally Posted by MuscleRodz View Post
      All the stuff mentioned is common and parts are cheap to fix. If it has rot in the cowl, walk away
      Very true. The cowl, or drip rail are areas of true concern. Lower extremities are common to rust and replacement panels are "fairly" easy to install. The cowl and drip rail are not on that list.




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