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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Feb 2010
      Location
      Houston, TX
      Posts
      31

      When should i get subframe connectors?

      I know subframe connectors are an essential for my 69 camaro. however i was told to put them on last, once the car is complete. I plan on later in the future converting my tranny from a Th-350r to a tko600, some hotchkis suspension upgrades, and baer brakes, possibly a supercharger once i have the money to do so. I do not plan on upgrading the engine out of the small block range (right now i have a 350 sbc). Is it better to hold off on the subframe connectors or should i get them now?




      Thanks.


    2. #2
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Location
      Centennial, CO
      Posts
      402
      Country Flag: United States
      I would do them now. Would you build a house with no foundation? Just my $.02
      Pete
      "This is the worst fun I've ever had" Chad (Kel-Tec)

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Location
      AZ
      Posts
      801
      Country Flag: United States
      Sooner rather than later will help ensure you don't twist the body doing something stupid but fun.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      IL/TN
      Posts
      908
      Country Flag: United States
      now! with solid body bushings
      https://www.protouringf-body.com "doing what they say can't be done"

    5. #5
      Join Date
      May 2005
      Location
      Fontana, CA
      Posts
      4,960
      Country Flag: United States
      NOW. Especially if you plan to do DSE style connectors, you don't want to do that to a finished car.
      Nick R.
      69 Camaro - 383, 700R4, 12 bolt 3.55, Hotchkis, Bilstein, Global West, Morris Classic
      08 HHR SS - Still Stock for now
      Do you still believe in all the things that you stood by before? Are you out there on the front lines, or at home keeping score?
      Do you care to be the layer of the bricks that seal your fate? Would you rather be the architect of what we might create?

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jun 2005
      Location
      Greenwood, SC
      Posts
      2,314
      whoever told you to put them on last has no idea what they're talking about. keep that in mind when they begin to suggest future modifications.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by formula View Post
      whoever told you to put them on last has no idea what they're talking about. keep that in mind when they begin to suggest future modifications.
      I would not got that far....it depends in what context it was made.

      I would not install subframe connectors on a bare shell with out the proper steps taken. Frame table or after it is certain that it is secure and level.
      The proper way in the past was to install them on a completed car with full weight on the car. IE, car on its wheels and level.

      Once you start welding that body will move a bit if left loose and a tweeked body due to subframe connector installation then becomes a huge problem.



      OP, I would do them now unless you plan on swapping or modifying your subframe. Having the full build plans would accurately determine the order of work.
      vince
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Posts
      206
      Definitely should be one of the first mods. Since the entire front half of the car is only bolted to the rear half with 4 bolts the F platform is notoriously flexible. I have always recommended solid body mount bushings and through-the-floor subframe connectors for these cars.

      Last edited by BMR Tech; 02-09-2011 at 01:56 PM.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Feb 2010
      Location
      Houston, TX
      Posts
      31
      Ok thanks for clearing that up for me. thats what i thought until this idiot told me otherwise lol. I was leaning towards getting the Hotchkis subframe connectors, due to the fact not too much wielding is required, and i dont have to cut the floor pans up. any suggestions on this? (i figure the less cut up work i do, the less room for error.)

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Apr 2004
      Location
      OKC, OK
      Posts
      3,739
      Country Flag: United States
      Hotchkis sfc are pretty good for ones that do not protrude through the floor. I would do them when you plan on the rest of the Hotchkis suspension upgrades
      Mike Redpath
      Musclerodz & Customz
      405-288-0189
      pro-touring parts specialists
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    11. #11
      Join Date
      Feb 2010
      Location
      Houston, TX
      Posts
      31
      My suspension upgrades im gonna have to buy one at a time due to the fact i don't have the cash to buy it all at once but this is what im planning on:
      Hotchkis-SFC, font and rear sway with sway bar brace, shock tower brace, and chassis max handle bars.
      and i was gonna throw on some DSE A-Arms.

      I also came across Competition Engineerings non-wielding sfc's. any input on these? are they any good?

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Apr 2004
      Location
      OKC, OK
      Posts
      3,739
      Country Flag: United States
      I have seen them, removed them, Hotchkis are nicer
      Mike Redpath
      Musclerodz & Customz
      405-288-0189
      pro-touring parts specialists
      Musclerodz.com

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    13. #13
      Join Date
      Dec 2009
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      243
      Country Flag: United States
      According to the install instructions for the Hotchkis SFC for a Convertible the car is suppose to be setting on all 4 wheels and drive height. You then install the SFC while setting on all 4 wheels.
      I would recommend talking to the SFC company you plan to buy and determine when is the best time to do it.

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Vancouver, BC
      Posts
      125
      Country Flag: Canada
      What the person that told you this might have meant is to install them when the car is "done" as in with all 4 wheels on the groound.

      If you are installing parts as you go and the car is mostly together, it's a much better idea to install the weld-in connectors with weight on all the wheels as opposed to up in the air with jackstands on the floor/framerails.

      However, if you are doing a big complete build on the car and tearing it down real far, you can just do this while the Camaro is a light shell.
      1972 Nova, forged LQ4 with twin 6466's, T56 Magnum, OEM subframe w/ Speedtech front, Chassisworks gLink rear, Ridetech coils & Wilwoods, with a rear floater in the works --> http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...1972-nova.html

    15. #15
      Join Date
      May 2005
      Location
      Fontana, CA
      Posts
      4,960
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Hotrod69 View Post
      I also came across Competition Engineerings non-wielding sfc's. any input on these? are they any good?
      Not very good at all.
      Nick R.
      69 Camaro - 383, 700R4, 12 bolt 3.55, Hotchkis, Bilstein, Global West, Morris Classic
      08 HHR SS - Still Stock for now
      Do you still believe in all the things that you stood by before? Are you out there on the front lines, or at home keeping score?
      Do you care to be the layer of the bricks that seal your fate? Would you rather be the architect of what we might create?

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Apr 2004
      Location
      OKC, OK
      Posts
      3,739
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by AM.MSCL View Post
      According to the install instructions for the Hotchkis SFC for a Convertible the car is suppose to be setting on all 4 wheels and drive height. You then install the SFC while setting on all 4 wheels.
      I would recommend talking to the SFC company you plan to buy and determine when is the best time to do it.
      that is because without the top, the body has little torsional rigidity and if you tighten them down wrong, they could preload the body and cause issues. You could have it setting on jacks under the suspension, or on a drive on lift to make installation accessable
      Mike Redpath
      Musclerodz & Customz
      405-288-0189
      pro-touring parts specialists
      Musclerodz.com

      facebook page
      http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Mus...73054649402015
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    17. #17
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Templeton, CA
      Posts
      561
      Country Flag: United States
      I have the bolt in CE SFC's and have not had any issues with them. Of course I'm not driving the snotballs out of it yet. They were easy to install. Don't hang down much. And cheap enough to replace later if I need the weld in type down the road.
      Last edited by ROBS6T8; 07-29-2010 at 07:32 PM. Reason: typo
      Robert
      My sloooow build thread...https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...hlight=Orngasm

      "If happiness is in your destiny, you need not be in a hurry."

      If I can only convince myself of this!

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      McKinney, TX
      Posts
      899
      Country Flag: United States
      according to Hotchkis's website:

      1 – Before performing the subframe connector installation, the vehicle must be completely assembled with all body and component parts installed (e.g. fenders, hood, quarterpanels, trunk, full interior, engine, glass, etc.). Basically, the subframe connectors should be one of the last components installed on your vehicle. Reason being is you want the vehicle settled with all of it’s own final weight. The car’s body is always in constant tension, with forces pushing or pulling within the chassis & body. You want to make sure these forces don’t
      change after you install the subframe connectors.
      Confucius says, "Choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life"

      My build Beast

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Dec 2009
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      243
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by absintheisfun View Post
      according to Hotchkis's website:

      1 – Before performing the subframe connector installation, the vehicle must be completely assembled with all body and component parts installed (e.g. fenders, hood, quarterpanels, trunk, full interior, engine, glass, etc.). Basically, the subframe connectors should be one of the last components installed on your vehicle. Reason being is you want the vehicle settled with all of it’s own final weight. The car’s body is always in constant tension, with forces pushing or pulling within the chassis & body. You want to make sure these forces don’t
      change after you install the subframe connectors.
      Back in my days of racing Camaros this was the rule for all the guys before welding in subframes or rollcages. We would even go as fas as making sure the car was 4 corner level and start the install.

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Location
      Santa Fe Springs, CA
      Posts
      625
      Quote Originally Posted by Hotrod69 View Post
      I know subframe connectors are an essential for my 69 camaro. however i was told to put them on last, once the car is complete. I plan on later in the future converting my tranny from a Th-350r to a tko600, some hotchkis suspension upgrades, and baer brakes, possibly a supercharger once i have the money to do so. I do not plan on upgrading the engine out of the small block range (right now i have a 350 sbc). Is it better to hold off on the subframe connectors or should i get them now?


      Thanks.

      Thanks to everyone in the thread for recommending our Subframe Connectors.



      As mentioned, we always recommend welding in subframe connectors towards the end of the build. Ours are designed so you can bolt them in if absolutely necessary, but for maximum strength it's best to weld the bolt holes and if you're committed do a small perimeter weld around the front and rear backets. Because the welding is minimal and there is no cutting or relocating required, Hotchkis subframe installation is easily done on a freshly finished car. As for when to install exactly...how about "before the first burnouts"?

      Many of our customers have had luck with Muffler shops doing the install. Just remember that it's critical that the rack they use is a drive-on rack where the car sits on the wheels with its full weight. Lifts that pick the car up by the frame don't work as the frame will not be settled correctly.


      Hotchkis Sport Suspension
      Toll Free: 877-466-7655

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