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    Thread: 79 C-10 Help!

    1. #1
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Posts
      4

      79 C-10 Help!

      OK guys, I have a 79 Chevy C-10 SWB. I have 2.5” drop spindles on the front but I want to go another 3”. Does anybody know how low is too low before you run into cambering problems. And does anybody know what to do about cambering problems with this truck. I want to build a truck that handles good, I know it’s a truck but I know it can be done. I’m not worried much about ride quality, just performance. And any suggestions on what to do instead or springs for the 3” will be helpful. Thanks guys.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Indiana
      Posts
      1,371
      Too much camber won't be your problem...these trucks have little camber gain. Your first compromise will be crossmember ground clearance.
      We have done a lot of development and refinement on this chassis.
      http://ridetechgarage.com/

      http://www.ridetech.com/shop/index.p...ures_hash=V179


      Even with little camber gain, a heavy front weight bias, and a high center of gravity, this truck can do well on the autocross and road course.
      Bret Voelkel
      Director of Innovation Fox Powered Vehicles Group
      Founder/ Former Owner
      RideTech/Air Ride Technologies, Inc.

      How do you spell Impossible?

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Posts
      4
      Thank you sir. Thats helps out alot.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Posts
      4
      Ok guys, one more question. When I put the drop spindles on my truck, something missed up. When the truck would roll forward the camber on the front wheel s would go negative. When the truck rolled back, the camber would go positive. I took it somewhere and they told me the idler and pitman arm was bad and one of my ball joints was bad. What I want to know is can this stuff being bad cause these problems or is there something else wrong?

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Turlock, Ca
      Posts
      14
      Country Flag: United States
      This what I did for about 9" from stock using no aftermaket part other than some steering u-joints and shafts.

      I took 1 1/2" out of the crossmember hight to eliminate the lower a-arms draging the ground (Never scraped after this).
      Cut 1 coil out of a set of suburban springs.
      Moved steering up 1 1/2" to match the crossmember (raised idler arm made new pitmen arm)
      Raised upper a-arm mounting point 1" Higher which help the camber gain and also the ball joint from bottoming out.
      Shorted the lower a-arm 3/4" to get rid of the stack of shims you end up with when you lower one of these. (Also moved the lower ball joint up 1".)
      Ran the steering shaft over the top of the new a-arm location.
      Took the sway bar towers off and mounted the 1 ton sway bar upside down directly to the frame.
      Added dual shocks as I could not afford the really good ones.
      Total cost $350.00 and handle like it was on rails no body lean to speck of. This was on a 2 wheel drive Blazer.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Posts
      4
      That's sounds bad... man, thanks.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      May 2008
      Posts
      42
      If it were me, I would buy a set of 3" spindles and sell the 2.5". From there I would bag the front, but that might not be your solution. You can safely cut 1 coil off the stock spring to gain 1.5-2" drop. I don't recommend any more, but there are those that have cut another half coil off with success.

      Just remember do not use excessive heat to cut your coils.




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