Not so EZ-EFI Question

[TnBlkC230WZ]

I finally go time to work on it Sunday.

Checked the compression, ohm'd the FI harness to ensure the fittings I installed were good and I pulled the distributor to inspect it. Then I changed the plugs and fixed the issue. The FR5LS plugs, which are fairly new, were not doing the job. Installed MR43LTS plugs and all is good. It has more power off idle now too.

Now I just need to fix the original EZ-EFI idle issue.

[GregWeld]

There are "rumors" that the tach adaptors are a problem.... so before you go crazy... see if you can't find some info about that.

If it was me -- I'd go straight out and get an MSD 6 box - and take your tach signal from the tach output.

Reminds me of the old IBM ad where the guy is showing off all manor of wizbang stuff and some guys says "yeah but will it work with such and such".... and then the sales guys says - "you need an adaptor for that". Makes me chuckle every time I think about that.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

I do have an MSD box. I temporarily took it out of the loop while troubleshooting the ignition issue. It makes a difference, but doesn't fix it . It does help the EMI count. I actually got it down to 0 at one point.

[hectore3]

How about the basics. Check your grounds and make sure they are proper.

[4mul8ion]

With the EMI counts down to near zero, I'm wondering if the idle problems are still pointing to a bad IAC for some reason. Did you get a chance to further isolate the metal IAC from EMI interference or just simply change the IAC out?

[TnBlkC230WZ]

I did get the ignition fixed. It was the spark plugs. I still have idle issues though. I'm going to call them again tomorrow.

[tazzz25906112]

Put one on a 467ci Pontiac stroker and had nothing but headaches until we tuned for over 500ci and the car ran great after that..... self learning they say,,, I say you'd better learn yourself or they'll jack until the cows come home with whats wrong with your car not their product.... The BS attitude from them cost another 3 systems I would have ordered otherwise for my other 2nd gen's.....

[TnBlkC230WZ]

Put one on a 467ci Pontiac stroker and had nothing but headaches until we tuned for over 500ci and the car ran great after that..... self learning they say,,, I say you'd better learn yourself or they'll jack until the cows come home with whats wrong with your car not their product.... The BS attitude from them cost another 3 systems I would have ordered otherwise for my other 2nd gen's.....

Did you just tell it the engine was bigger than it actually is?

It is really wierd. Sometimes it will idle perfectly, other times it stalls when I push the clutch in, and sometimes the RPM will go up when I push the clutch in and slowly settle to a normal idle. Sometimes the throttle response is decent and other times, it hesitates.

Question: When monitoring the AF ratio, it fluctuates a lot when I'm just cruising. It will bounce from 13.5 to 15.5. Is this normal?

[4mul8ion]

...
It is really wierd. Sometimes it will idle perfectly, other times it stalls when I push the clutch in, and sometimes the RPM will go up when I push the clutch in and slowly settle to a normal idle. Sometimes the throttle response is decent and other times, it hesitates.
...

Someone else was having idle problems with their EZ. See http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/ez-efi-bad-iac-4394.html. Does this describe what's happening now?

[tazzz25906112]

Did you just tell it the engine was bigger than it actually is?

It is really wierd. Sometimes it will idle perfectly, other times it stalls when I push the clutch in, and sometimes the RPM will go up when I push the clutch in and slowly settle to a normal idle. Sometimes the throttle response is decent and other times, it hesitates.

Question: When monitoring the AF ratio, it fluctuates a lot when I'm just cruising. It will bounce from 13.5 to 15.5. Is this normal?

In the instruction manual there is a tune for over 500ci,,,, try that cause it sure worked for my setup.... It was all good after the 500ci tune, no more stalling especially at idle when cold coming to a stop sign or set of lights when pushing in the clutch...

[mr_nice_guy]

Are you guys still having problems with this setup? I was thinking that it would be a nice addition to my GTO and down the road when I stroke the motor easy enough to retune...

[atl69camaro]

I finally ended up returning my EZ EFI system after putting around 40 hours into unsuccessful troubleshooting. It was just too inconsistent. Sometimes it would crank and seem to run fine while other times it would not even start. I would then retune and think it was fine, only to have it start running like total crap 30 minutes later, seemingly for no reason. There were a few times that I had to limp home after thinking for sure that I was going to get stranded. I really wanted it to work and probably spoke to their tech support more than 10 times before giving up. I was running it on a 540 ci Chevy so maybe this displacement had something to do with it, although FAST said it should work fine.

[GregWeld]

Sad!

I love mine more and more every time I drive it. Sorry to hear you're not such a happy camper.

[old66tiger]

I wonder if the 540 would have been better with a FAST Multiport EZ system? Greg, that is what yours is, right? I am planning on spending the extra $500 to go with the multiport version of FAST. I have thought about the Holley system and the Powerjection system. My buddy has the Holley system on his car that V8TV built and the FI still does not work like it should. The Powerjection system just looks kind of cheesy.

[GregWeld]

Yes -- mine is the multiport system -- which will run 8 injectors.... and you can run just about anything you want as long as they're high impedance versions....

Since the EZ EFI DOES NOT control your timing -- it's only controlling the fueling, it's super simple system. I only cares that you have a good O2 wideband to read O2 --- and it needs a great tach signal -- and a solid MAP (vacuum) signal.... of course is also has ECT (Engine coolant temp) and IAT (intake air temp) but those are so it knows if its cold start -- and it starts tuning when it hits 140*

I've read many threads where people are having "issues" with EFI -- not just EZ EFI..... and I can tell you that if you don't follow basic good solid mechanical connections and read the instructions - and FOLLOW THEM EXACTLY - and if you don't understand fueling and timing and all these other things -- it won't be the EFI that fails you -- it's the install (provided of course that there is not an equipment failure of some kind - which there can be!). The problem with EFI installs is that you have to be really good and methodical to sort out what part of this whole thing is the mess. It's like a guy that doesn't really understand timing and he can only work on the carb and the carb isn't the issue....

These systems aren't really complicated - they're different but not really - they control fuel -- like we used to do with jets -- we now do that with a keyboard - but if you don't get fueling - you're not going to get EFI ---- and if you don't really fully understand timing and timing curve - and total timing -- and or what a motor needs differently when it's cold (like setting the choke to operate properly etc) you're going to really struggle with this stuff. The EZ EFI system is simple in that if you can set your distributor up right -- as far as curve and initial and total.... now you're only dealing with fueling. You can change the fueling via only 3 simple settings in the EZ EFI -- Idle -- Cruise -- WOT. You don't have to go thru VE tables etc. You don't have to mess with timing tables -- or cold start tables... The thing knows what the temp is - and it will take care of that part. You want to get a little better cruise fueling -- then just set the cruise fuel to 14.5 or whatever you think it should be -- and that's it. Have a problem with surging (lean miss) or something - just change that one setting (the cruise A/F ratio) and that's it.

I'm running a 406 cu in SBC with 8 stack throttle bodies -- no Idle air control (or IAC)... and mine starts up instantly when cold and I can drop it in gear and drive off. No stumble no hesitation no warming up (although I do that just out of courtesy to the motor). The motor was built around EFI -- so the cam is wider LSA -- and I used smaller heads this time around (went Dart Pro 1's 180cc) for bottom end and throttle response... and I think the combo of the cam being custom ground knowing we're doing EFI --- and the good vacuum the motor makes -- and the velocity of the air etc all helps. But it certainly isn't anything "special" or anything I did special except to make sure things were right. The ECU runs straight to the battery -- just like they tell you to do... no junctions - no grounding at the frame or motor - both leads run straight to the battery terminals.... and the vacuum source is straight from the intake to the MAP and another line straight to the vac referenced fuel regulator... no t's! And the tach signal is straight from the digital MSD 6 box... There's no teflon tape affecting the ground of the water or air sensors -- and there's no exhaust leaks in or around the O2 sensor etc.

Speaking of which -- I just fixed a couple of upstream exhaust leaks on another car -- they were small but leaks non the less... And I think they affected the O2 sensors by introducing air and causing the factory ECU to then think it was running lean -- so it added fuel and made the motor run fat as all get out. Welded up the couple holes and everything worked mo' betta'. You just can't "cheat" these systems... and that's my main point in all this typing. Don't try to be "it's good enough" or "it'll be okay" ==== because it won't be. It's got to be installed right from the get go.

[old66tiger]

The common denominator for a higher tech induction solution is to make sure that it is installed as instructed. I have seen even the lowest tech electrical device have problems because of silly things like bad grounds. I am hoping that my cam is not too big for this induction. I don't think it is but you never know. Cam swaps are cheap anyway.

[kryptik]

Definitely gonna have to agree with GregWeld...

Pay attention to EVERY little note/warning in the manual, and follow every instruction down to the letter.

If the ECU is anywhere near the alternator or ignition box, relocate it! FAST recommends AT LEAST 2 feet. Make sure your power is direct off the battery. Make sure there are NO EXHAUST LEAKS.

I'm really looking to install this system myself, that's unfortunate to hear that it is not working for some...the fact that it works wonderfully for others leads me to believe that some are not installing it properly, as GregWeld said.

[old66tiger]

I am wondering as long as you have no exhaust leaks upstream of the O2 sensor, it should not make a difference down stream, right?