how to pull a pitman arm?

[69camarokid]

so i found my 3.5 inches of loose steering culprate! i have a bad pitman arm so im swapping it out. But even after taking the nut off i cant get it out.
Do i need a special tool for this? how do i get it off? thanks

[LSx_88_Ciera]

My method is to use a die grinder with a cut-off wheel and cut into the pitman arm as deep as possible with out cutting into the steering box shaft.
Then use either a chisel and hammer or air-hammer with appropriate tool and split the pitman arm.
Once it is split/cracked it is quite easy to remove.

[wmhjr]

Or just use a pitman arm puller......

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W80557/

Also available at your local auto parts or Pep Boys.

[meenaggie]

Why not use a pitman arm / tie rod end puller? That made it very easy for me. Simply put the tool jaws behind the pitman arm, put the puller stud against the steering box stud and start turning the bolt that is part of the puller. This will suck the pitman arm right off.

The pitman arm is an interference fit and that is why you are having such a hard time removing it. I suppose a two jaw bearing puller would work as well.

Here is a link to a cheap version of the tool at harbor freight. It is only $7.99 and is on sale right now.

http://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod...ller-1752.html

Glad I could actually help someone.

[meenaggie]

Guess wmhjr beat me to it.

[DButler]

I just used the pitman arm puller on mine and it works very well. I am pretty sure you can just use the wedge to they have worked well for me in the past.

[John Wright]

the pitman arm puller is fairly inexpensive so even if you use it only one time...you'll get your money's worth out of it.

[CarlC]

Usually friends, neighbors, etc. make sure it gets used more than once.

[68Formula]

Even with a pitman arm puller, it just didn't want to come off. (This was for a box already removed from a vehicle). Even with a long leverage bar, it just wouldn't move. So, I did some online searching, and well I don't know if it's the ideal method, but after an hour or so I didn't care...

With the puller still installed and tightened as far as I could get it, I took about 5 wacks with a BFH to each side of the other end of the pitman arm. Then I was able to continue torquing the puller until the pitman arm popped off. Didn't appear to do any damage to the box's threads and the pitman arm was going to be replaced anyway.

[CarlC]

Lube the thread on the puller and the end of the stud pushing on the shaft with grease, preferably one with a heavy moly content. On dry threads 90% of the applied torque goes to overcoming friction. Only 10% goes toward loading.

[a67]

At times pitman arms can be a real bear to remove. After being on that tapered output shaft for a number of years they sure as heck do not want to move.

Heat will also help get them loose. Now I did read that it is already been removed. But figured for the next guy...

Last one I did was the same way, it just was not moving. Put the puller on as tight as possible then hit it with the flame from a propane torch. Added penetrating oil (Kroil). Heat, Kroil, heat, kroil, tighten puller, heat, kroil... Still wouldn't move. After working on it for a while gave up and just left it.

Came out the next day to finish it off, when I found that it was already off the shaft. Some time during the night it finally broke loose. Made my day.

Bob.

[bochnak]

Correct me if I am wrong, the pitman arm does not wear out. It is typically the drag link that needs replacement.

I had slop in this location on my chevelle and replaced the drag link.

[6'9"Witha69]

The pitman has the swivel end on it. They are more likely to wear out. Center or Drag links rarely wear out as it is a wearing of the bores rather than the normal wear items (Pitman, idler or tie rod ends).

[bochnak]

The pitman has the swivel end on it. They are more likely to wear out. Center or Drag links rarely wear out as it is a wearing of the bores rather than the normal wear items (Pitman, idler or tie rod ends).

You are right. The chevelle design is opposite.

Back to the topic....I have broken a $5 puller from HF. Best bet is to rent from autozone.

I like to tighten by hand and tap pitman arm and puller stud every so often. I think it helps relieve tension.