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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Posts
      48

      Ball Joint Stuck!

      I was cutting a half coil off my front springs this weekend. Driver side, no problem. Passenger side, NO GOOD. I broke a ball joint pickle fork trying to get that thing apart last night. I hammered and hammered(5 lb. brass hammer) on the bolt and control arm. Soaked it in PB Blaster, let it set all night. Still no good. Tried a small propane torch for heat, not happening. The thing won't budge! What can I do? Anybody want to come break this loose? lol

      78 Trans Am 6.6L,TH350, 3.08 posi, work in progress.


    2. #2
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      hitting the threaded stud does very little.

      Try hitting the spindle side with a medium iron hammer. Works for me all the time. Also lower the car and try to place a 2x4 between the upper arm and the frame. Then raise the car. This will lessen the angle on the studs. Disconnect the tie rod so you can get a good swing on it. Crank the spindle to one side. You want to get a good hit on the beefy section where the BJ stud goes through.

      I like to leave the nut on at least 2 turns or place a jack under but not supporting the control arm. You want to let the control arm free to drop a bit.
      Vince
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Posts
      48
      Ok, I'll give that a try in the morning. Thanks
      78 Trans Am 6.6L,TH350, 3.08 posi, work in progress.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Posts
      952
      when you were hammering on it, did you have a jack under the ball joint?
      if so, take the jack out and let the spring pressure do the work for you. a few good wacks and even the most stubborn of balljoints pop out if the spring is pushing on it.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Posts
      48
      No jack was out. but i did leave the nut on a few threads as Mr quick suggested. so if it did pop loose it wouldnt fall completely out.
      78 Trans Am 6.6L,TH350, 3.08 posi, work in progress.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jan 2002
      Location
      Crockett, Texas
      Posts
      568
      Country Flag: United States
      Use the right tool, either buy one or rent one.
      Don 67 Camaro RS/SS Texas

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Posts
      48
      right tool as in pickle fork?.....i already stated i had one and it broke. got another one and still no luck!
      78 Trans Am 6.6L,TH350, 3.08 posi, work in progress.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Posts
      952
      i think it was David Pozzi that invented a balljoint separator tool that fits in between the upper and lower balljoints and pushes them apart.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Have you tried one of these on a air chisel?

      http://www.tooltopia.com/k-tool-inte...aign=nextag_r1
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    10. #10
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Pgh, PA
      Posts
      2,177
      Quote Originally Posted by novaderrik View Post
      i think it was David Pozzi that invented a balljoint separator tool that fits in between the upper and lower balljoints and pushes them apart.
      Marcus sells these. I bought one. SO much better than smacking the friggin ball joints around!
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      NW Burbs, IL
      Posts
      286
      Quote Originally Posted by wmhjr View Post
      Marcus sells these. I bought one. SO much better than smacking the friggin ball joints around!
      I made 1 for a few bucks. Go to the hardware store and buy 2 bolts and a coupler. I like to use bolts/coupler which have the same hex/wrench size as the BJ's.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Pgh, PA
      Posts
      2,177
      Quote Originally Posted by bochnak View Post
      I made 1 for a few bucks. Go to the hardware store and buy 2 bolts and a coupler. I like to use bolts/coupler which have the same hex/wrench size as the BJ's.
      The one advantage to the ones that Marcus has is that they have larger pivot ends, so you're not twisting on the studs when you expand and they take care of odd angles - plus they're beefier. To be honest, they aren't very expensive. You have a great idea for a home made tool if you don't plan to use it much, but now that I have mine, I've used it a bunch of times already. Way more than I expected. The one from Marcus was a whopping $19.90!
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
      Posts
      1,240
      Country Flag: United States
      Ive separated a few ball joints over the years. Always used a pickle fork. Never broke one though. And they do have an up and down side just for some that forgot, I did once

      I am against hammering on the spindle, just not kosher for me.

      For a really stuck joint I made a sleeve for my dewalt jack hammer.



      Yes, it was a major task. Had to stand up on the work bench above the vice holding this big hammer on the pickle fork. Just hammering away. This was after using a two pound sledge on the pickle fork and wearing me out. The joint finally popped loose. Not fun. Pickle fork never broke.

      A spreader (press) type ball joint separator would be the hot ticket I think. I need to add one to my tool box. Hammering and forcing just doesnt sound right, kinda primitive. Forcing a wedge in between to parts doesnt sound as productive as pressing the pin out directly. But usually the pickle fork works with just a couple whacks.

      I wont be standing on the bench anymore for a ball joint. Before that happens Ill take the advise from you guys. JR
      What I write is opinion, none of it is factual. 2010

      Even though I'm conscious it doesn't mean I'm coherent. 2011

      I'm getting better with age. Best thing about old age is I don't know any better. 2012

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Posts
      48
      Ok so I'm still not making progress. Tried the block of wood between the upper control arm and frame as suggested by Mr. Quick. Then I thought if I took the upper ball joint loose, I could just slide the whole spindle off the lower ball joint. But even the upper BJ is stuck! What the hell do I need to do to get these things loose?!?
      78 Trans Am 6.6L,TH350, 3.08 posi, work in progress.

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Jan 2002
      Location
      Crockett, Texas
      Posts
      568
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by tnbandit View Post
      right tool as in pickle fork?.....i already stated i had one and it broke. got another one and still no luck!
      No, check a Snap-on or Matco catalog.
      Don 67 Camaro RS/SS Texas

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Ok...worst case senerio...you could take the lower control arms loose at the frame.....lower it down with the floor jack(be sure to have the car already up high enough to let the control arm swing down far enough to get the spring out).

      Not the preffered way, but it can be done with caution.

      Then you could get at that buggar and give it a real kick in the butt with the hammer to get it loose.....if that still doesn't work, take the upper control arm loose and take the arms and spindle somewhere that has the tools to get it apart for you....this shouldn't be that difficult, I'm wondering what is up.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    17. #17
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Pgh, PA
      Posts
      2,177
      Quote Originally Posted by tnbandit View Post
      Ok so I'm still not making progress. Tried the block of wood between the upper control arm and frame as suggested by Mr. Quick. Then I thought if I took the upper ball joint loose, I could just slide the whole spindle off the lower ball joint. But even the upper BJ is stuck! What the hell do I need to do to get these things loose?!?
      I think you had a couple answers. You need to either make the tool yourself or buy the tool from Marcus. That'll get the spindles off and you can do what you want.

      ESPECIALLY if you have tall ball joints (don't know if you do) the pickle fork is a real problem.
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Hamilton, NJ
      Posts
      4,317
      Country Flag: United States
      The local advance auto 'loans' tools and they have the tool you need.
      Scott from NJ.

      Vent Windows Forever! ...

      Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold
      I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      NW Burbs, IL
      Posts
      286
      Buy the tool here:

      http://scandc.com/tools.htm




      Or use your imagination and make one. This tool/method works really well w/o tearing boots.

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Posts
      48
      Quote Originally Posted by bochnak View Post
      Buy the tool here:

      http://scandc.com/tools.htm




      Or use your imagination and make one. This tool/method works really well w/o tearing boots.
      Ok now i'm seeing how this would be a better tool for the job. i wasn't understanding the whole coupler idea.
      78 Trans Am 6.6L,TH350, 3.08 posi, work in progress.

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