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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Sep 2011
      Location
      SW Ohio
      Posts
      5
      Hi Ray,



      Thanks for the update... I have been laxxed in working on the front end design... I just keep thinking that maybe I can eliminate the Watts setup in lieu of a Satchell, (triangulated), 4 link setup. I just can't make myself comfortable with angled links and such a narrow frame spacing... Even with short upper links, (which I'm not fond of)... Anyway, can I talk you into posting a couple more pics of your Mumford setup? Maybe I can help with your Bell-Crank/dampening concepts...

      Cheers,
      -Jay Sander
      SW Ohio
      "Bacon" What more can one say?


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      New Derry, PA
      Posts
      1,265
      Country Flag: United States
      Jaybob,
      You said the front end design??? I'm guessing rear, and you are correct, that frame width is pretty marginal for a triangulated setup. Personally, I use a minimum of 60 deg included angle between the upper links for a street car. Yes, you will see kits out there that run less...

      If you stick with 60deg, I think you will find the effective length of the upper links will be shorter than optimum. On a big tire, narrow chassis car, I would avoid the true Satchell design that triangulates the lower links instead.

      Ray Kaufman - Wyotech Chassis Fab and High Performance Instructor. Words of Wisdom from an old master... at Asylum Custom Interiors website

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      New Derry, PA
      Posts
      1,265
      Country Flag: United States
      Jaybob (and everbody else...) here are some pictures to mull over. This is where the car stands now.

      Name:  new mumford 1.jpg
Views: 2602
Size:  63.2 KB
      Above shot from the front of the car showing the basic Mumford setup with cross link and 2:1 crank arm for the ride shock. At upper left is the "top" mount for the coilover.
      Name:  new mumford 2.jpg
Views: 2370
Size:  66.3 KB
      LF corner of car showing pull rod and bell crank for ride shock. Behind the aluminum cap on the pivot is a needle and thrust bearing arrangement. In the background is the engine mount plate. Notice how the Chevy bolt pattern is rolled 30deg to the left.
      Name:  new mumford 3.jpg
Views: 2097
Size:  75.1 KB
      RF corner. Back side of pull rod spud on axle is threaded for the roll link. End of roll shock shaft is just visible under upper frame rail
      Name:  new mumford 4.jpg
Views: 1265
Size:  81.6 KB
      From right side of car. Roll shock and adjustable mount at top of picture.
      Name:  new mumford 5.jpg
Views: 1288
Size:  74.1 KB
      Closer view of double end roll shock and mount. The shock will be held in place by a spring perch adjuster nut on either side of mount. Moving the shock side to side will change cross weight or "wedge" on front axle. The small spring on the far end of shaft represents how the roll springs will be mounted on both ends. The spring force will balance against the shock body to hold the car upright at static ride height. Keep in mind the car will have about 66% of the total weight on the left side tires.

      Ray Kaufman - Wyotech Chassis Fab and High Performance Instructor. Words of Wisdom from an old master... at Asylum Custom Interiors website




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