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    Results 1 to 11 of 11
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Pgh, PA
      Posts
      2,177

      Power steering lines

      I've made all my own cooling, hydro clutch, fuel and brake lines. However, I have no experience really with making high pressure hydraulic lines for something like power steering. All of my lines are either hard or braided stainless. I've got what I think is kind of a cheesy power steering line kit I used from "Gotta Show" but I'm switching to AN. Does anybody have any recommendation on either making power steering lines or having a braided set made to my specs?

      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,825
      Country Flag: United States
      Aeroquip and Russell both sell braided high pressure PS rated hose and fittings that you can buy at Summit. I used the Russell. It was a bit of PITA to assembled but no leaks. There are assembly instructions in the Russell catalog with all the needed part numbers etc.
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Location
      TuoCo, CA
      Posts
      992
      Country Flag: United States
      I used this stuff...
      http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FCG0606/
      The teflon braided stuff can be noisy.

      here's a thread with some info...
      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...+high+pressure
      Steve
      '68 Camaro - SBC, TKO600, 3.73 Moser 12-bolt, Speedtech, ATS-AFX, Hotchkis, Forgeline, Ron Davis and C5 brakes (Kore3), Holley Terminator TBI.
      Check it Out Here

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
      Posts
      1,240
      Country Flag: United States
      Good info, looks like you did all the research. And that was two years ago, still holding strong? Sounds like thats the ticket. JR


      Quote Originally Posted by eville View Post
      I used this stuff...
      http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FCG0606/
      The teflon braided stuff can be noisy.

      here's a thread with some info...
      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...+high+pressure
      What I write is opinion, none of it is factual. 2010

      Even though I'm conscious it doesn't mean I'm coherent. 2011

      I'm getting better with age. Best thing about old age is I don't know any better. 2012

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Pgh, PA
      Posts
      2,177
      Thanks, Guys. I've noticed in the past that for example Fragola hose is more difficult to get ends on due to the heavier construction of the hose and braid then for example Russell. The Fragola hose certainly seems to be much "tougher" - though I also wouldn't necessarily call the Russell weak. Anybody else notice this?

      Also, how would you guys compare the difficulty in assembling these hose ends as mentioned above to either normal -6 or-8 Fragola or Russell stuff?
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
      Posts
      1,240
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by wmhjr View Post

      Also, how would you guys compare the difficulty in assembling these hose ends as mentioned above to either normal -6 or-8 Fragola or Russell stuff?
      I cant talk about the braided hose that you guys are using. I have only used the SS braid.

      But what I do is grip the hose in the vise. Tight enough so it wont slip but not so tight that it deforms the end. With the plastic braid I dont think Id do it though, might hurt the braid. Then I use a socket that fits the nut. With the socket on the ratchet and nut in the socket I push as hard as I can, pushing the nut against the hose end and turn, left hand threads usually. It starts to tear up the braided end a lil, some crunching sounds. But I keep going. And the course thread screws on fast. If there is a loose wire or two dont stop, never stop LOL Keep the pressure on and thread the nut over the braid. And no matter how well I cut the braid, it seems like there will always be a stray wire or two that doesnt want to get under the nut. But thats just at the start of the threading, the loose wires will be covered up by the nut. Never had one sticking out after the nut is fully threaded. And I have tried to start over and reposition the strands of wire. It just turns into a bigger mess. I have to re-cut the end.

      Once the nut is seated. Then the tube can be inserted and thread that into the nut. Make sure to keep the nut AND hose from spinning. And I dont use lube, never had to but they make it for this. Thread the end in all the way and its a tight fit. No need to go crazy for tightness on the last part. Just seat it to the nut and its secure.

      Ok.... Solly. I know you didnt ask about how to make a hose end. I just felt like writing. Im sure you already have it down..

      As for some hose ends being different? I have used them all. Cheapys from online (ebay) to higher (priced) quality ends. Cheap in money, not in quality, all US made. Although the anodizing does show the cost diff. And that does make a diff. Thats another discussion. Me removing all the anodized coating from some fittings because they wouldnt seal. Not hose ends but NPT fittings.

      Solly for talking so much. Its just a topic that is current for me right now. Been dealing with a large (for me) air system, that has alot of AN fittings and hose ends. Been tracing down leaks for three days now and finally have it all buttoned up. NO LEAKS!!!!! JR
      What I write is opinion, none of it is factual. 2010

      Even though I'm conscious it doesn't mean I'm coherent. 2011

      I'm getting better with age. Best thing about old age is I don't know any better. 2012

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Newbury Park, CA
      Posts
      5,837
      Country Flag: United States
      IMO teflon hose is significantly easier than standard AN end assembly. It will also likely last the life of the car vs. a neoprene or nitrile rubber.

      I've never had an Aeroquip part leak or come apart, and there's a fair amount of hose and ends on the car. Off the top of my head there's at least 9 ends and close to 15' of hose. The nice thing about sticking with one manufacturer is that only one brand of replacement ferrules are needed.
      VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Melbourne, FL
      Posts
      1,046
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm likeing this stuff for all my hose applications. It's a little pricey but should last forever. Plus the Kevlar cover shouldn't spear your fingers during assembly like the stainless does. And it's more flexible than the stainless coating. It doesn't come in -3AN for brake lines so I'll have to use the stainless for that.

      http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=3490
      67 Firebird Convert 455 +.060 Johnny Winters TH400 74cc KRE d-port flowed @ 310 cfm heads piston dished 16cc H-beam rods Comp Cam 305-AH-8 cam 108* LSA 253/260 @.050 duration .577/.594 lift w/1.65 rockers Ford 9" 3.55 Detroit Locker M/T Sportsman Radials 31x18x15 on Convo Pro 15x15s

      Honest dad that 455 on the side of the block is a serial number

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Orlando, Fl
      Posts
      1,229
      Country Flag: United States
      If you go with Aeroquip PTFE line, I have some fittings that may help you out... A few straight fittings and a few 90's. The 90's need new ferrules, but they are cheaper than buying fittings. Let me know if you need them and we can meet up one day after work.

      Nick
      Nick DiPrenda

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Orlando, Fl
      Posts
      1,229
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 67 455 Bird ragtop View Post
      I'm likeing this stuff for all my hose applications. It's a little pricey but should last forever. Plus the Kevlar cover shouldn't spear your fingers during assembly like the stainless does. And it's more flexible than the stainless coating. It doesn't come in -3AN for brake lines so I'll have to use the stainless for that.

      http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=3490

      Ooh, I like that. I am not a fan of the stainless look... May redo my lines.
      Nick DiPrenda

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jul 2009
      Location
      New Jersey
      Posts
      536
      Country Flag: United States
      I usually go to the closest heavy equiptment place and have them whip me out some. They carry almost every type of hose avaialble, braided, natural, AN, push on, and they know how to make stuff that won't break or leak. I do a lot of stuff myself, but I find this just to be the easiest way out most times. I just measure and go get a hose or two. On my P/S they even brazed the right ends on to mate an AGR box to an old GM pump. Worked great.
      RJ Cilurso
      67 Camaro with a few things bolted to it
      12 Camaro with a few things bolted to it
      50 Chevy 5 window p/u with a few things unbolted
      USAF




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