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    Results 1 to 9 of 9
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      USA, TN
      Posts
      850

      Using 4130 for sheet metal repairs

      I'm a nube at MIG welding and the whole process of what steel to use for body repairs.

      I'm about to embark on installing DSE mini tubs and a Chassiworks G-Link in my 71 Nova. Installiing the mini tubs requires patching lots of holes in the body and frame rails. I've done some research and I'm considering using annealed 4130 steel for the repair work.

      My logic is that even annealed, 4130 has a much higher yield strenth than mild steel and slightly higher tensile strength.

      DSE recommends patching the frame rail with 1/8 inch mild steel. I would like to use annealed .063 4130 to reinforce the inner side of the rail to attach (possibly bolt) the G-Link to and for patching the outer side of the fram rail. The frame rail is .048 from the factory, but it will get narrowed for the mini tubs. Is this a good idea or should I use a heavier guage or different material?

      I plan to patch the other smaller holes with .040 or .050 4130.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jan 2009
      Location
      So-Cal
      Posts
      17
      Is this like a unibody type construction? I work with 4130 plates quite a bit and Yes in it's annealed state it is very much like a 1010, or 1018 mild steel. The thicknesses you are talking about generally scare me though, especially when you are talking suspension. To answer our question, Yes, you can use 4130, but in the end you will never know the difference.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
      Country Flag: United States
      I think 4130 would probably work fine too. But it will cost a lot more for very little gain. I'd recommend standard low-carbon steel, like 1018. 1018 is easier to cut, form, and weld.

      Free advice, and worth every penny.

      jp
      John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    4. #4
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      Orange, CA
      Posts
      456
      Unless you are going to normalize it after you weld it in, you are going to end up with pretty much just expensive 1012 mild steel with potentially brittle weld joints.
      Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming 'WOW What a Ride!'

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      USA, TN
      Posts
      850
      Thanks guys. I'll stick with the 1018 or 1012.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Manteca, CA
      Posts
      383

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      USA, TN
      Posts
      850
      Looks like most of the 1008 - 1018 sheets conform to either cold rolled A366 or hot rolled A36 standard. Should I pick the one with the highest carbon content or stay with what is cheapest since they all have a similar yield and tensile strength?

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
      Country Flag: United States
      I like CR steel. Easier to weld, since you don't have to grind or sand off the outer scale, plus CR steel usually has tighter manufacturing tolerances.

      jp
      John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      Quote Originally Posted by DRJDVM's '69 View Post
      Dont make it more complicated than it needs to be....
      best advice ive heard in a while
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592




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