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    Results 1 to 9 of 9
    1. #1
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      676
      Country Flag: United States

      LS1 brake conversion questions for 1st gen F-body

      Where you guys able to use the stock hose that comes with the calipers? I don't have the hubs back from the machine shop yet so I don't have it all bolted up, but with the hose attached to the brake line it looks as though it might be a bit short? If you did replace them what did you use, I'd hate to get a stainless replacement and have it be the same length, and it looks as though you have to get the hose with the fittings on already. tell me if I'm wrong here.

      also, what master cylinder and proportioning valve did you use? I'm keeping drums in the rear for now. thank you

      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Houston, TX
      Posts
      1,197
      Country Flag: United States
      Kore3 has a flex line kit that will work with the stock hard lines and newer calipers. Call/email Tobin and he'll set you up.
      Tu Ho
      Firebird V2-LS swap

    3. #3
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      676
      Country Flag: United States
      K, thanks, sent him an email.
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    4. #4
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      676
      Country Flag: United States
      Ok, tobin replied back and I ordered a set of braided stainless hoses from him. thanks again.

      still would like to know what I should run for a m/c and prop valve. Just want to make sure I've got the right parts for this to work properly.
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Vancouver, WA
      Posts
      183
      Quote Originally Posted by 68firebird View Post
      Ok, tobin replied back and I ordered a set of braided stainless hoses from him. thanks again.

      still would like to know what I should run for a m/c and prop valve. Just want to make sure I've got the right parts for this to work properly.
      Boosted or manual?

    6. #6
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      676
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by gort69 View Post
      Boosted or manual?
      manual
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,709
      Country Flag: United States
      again give Tobin a call he has all the answers and parts!
      Lee Abel
      AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

      1977 Chevy Monza 2+2:Project "Cheap Trick"
      1978 C10 Long bed , On air and trailer puller
      2006 Buell Blast ,Just a bike to ride and for mileage
      1966 Caprice 4dr Sports Roof fact.327/now 350/SOON 454???? Project "II Old,,,ZERO BUDGET OR LESS CAPRICE!"

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Posts
      345
      Quote Originally Posted by 68firebird View Post
      manual
      What I did, am doing, on a g-body with 4-wheel LS1 brakes and a manual set up is:

      Manual pedal ratio is 6.1:1, stayed with that
      7/8" M/C, DORMAN Part # M39736 (aluminum)
      Wilwood proportional valve, #260-8419 (in rear line)

      Pads are still-to-be-decided. But am looking at a high friction street/track pad. ECB yellow, possibly blue, Porterfield R-4S, etc.

      Note that the above M/C is a Chrysler disc/disc set up. So will need to add a 10# residual valve to the rear drums when using it.

      For a M/C that will be much closer to a bolt-in, the '80 Malibu with manual brakes has a 7/8" bore. DORMAN Part # M39166 (iron).

      It should also have a built in residual valve for the rear drums. And has the common Chevy size outlets (9/16-18 & 1/2-20) vs. the 3/8-24 outlets on the Chrysler M/C.

      Bob.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      676
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by a67 View Post
      What I did, am doing, on a g-body with 4-wheel LS1 brakes and a manual set up is:

      Manual pedal ratio is 6.1:1, stayed with that
      7/8" M/C, DORMAN Part # M39736 (aluminum)
      Wilwood proportional valve, #260-8419 (in rear line)

      Pads are still-to-be-decided. But am looking at a high friction street/track pad. ECB yellow, possibly blue, Porterfield R-4S, etc.

      Note that the above M/C is a Chrysler disc/disc set up. So will need to add a 10# residual valve to the rear drums when using it.

      For a M/C that will be much closer to a bolt-in, the '80 Malibu with manual brakes has a 7/8" bore. DORMAN Part # M39166 (iron).

      It should also have a built in residual valve for the rear drums. And has the common Chevy size outlets (9/16-18 & 1/2-20) vs. the 3/8-24 outlets on the Chrysler M/C.

      Bob.
      thank you, this is the kind of answer I was looking for. Of all the people here that have converted to either LS1 or even corvette brakes I was hoping for people to just post what setup they are using.
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget




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