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    Results 1 to 10 of 10
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Location
      Rochester NY
      Posts
      404

      Thoughs on a SBC build up

      I am NOT an engine guy - I've done a lot of research and math to assemble what I think will turn out to be a good power plant for my driver. I ordered some parts and will be ordering some more this week and before I start the assembly I would like opinions on the build. I learned a long time a go, if you don't know ask - so I'm asking.

      I'm thinking this combo should be north of 450hp and perform well on the street


      Thanks for the feedback,

      Don



      1st lets start with the block:


      350 4 bolt - machined and assembled by a real quality guy in Columbus,OH - - it has a .40 bore with JE forged flat top pistons and is running a 400 crank


      Here is what I'm planning on finishing the motor with unless someone has a better ideal or believes I'm crazy for this combination or knows it would turn out way off what I'm thinking - PLEASE speak up if you fall into one of these categories..


      Brodix Aluminum Heads 102100
      70 cc chamber - 200cc intake runner - 2.020 in intake valve with a 1.600 exhaust - max lift .575 in

      Lunati
      Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 268/276, Lift .489/.504, -- designed to work between 1,600 - 6,200 RPM

      Summit Aluminum Roller Rockers


      Trickflow 7.850" Chromemoly Pushrods


      Weiand dual plane Stealth intake manifold with an operating range from 1,500 - 6,700 RPM


      The Carb is up in the air right now -- I currently have a Holley 650 double pump and was either going to run it or maybe rebuild it with a Holley 750 retro fit package (not sure if I need that much fuel with this combo)


      Should I upgrade the stock HEI electrical components?

      I also have a Mildon high volume oil pump, an Edelbrock 110gph fuel pump, a double roller timing chain and an ARP bolt kit to finish things off






      What do you guys think - am I safe with my build up or should i tweak something to make it much better?

      Thanks in advance for your input!!

      Don
      Don
      Grace - 67 Camaro daily driver with upgrades along the way.

      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...-Camaro-Driver


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Location
      Rochester NY
      Posts
      404
      +++

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Long Beach, Ca
      Posts
      1,564
      Country Flag: United States
      I have a very similar engine. I would go with a 210cc head, and maybe a bigger cam. I have 200cc Iron Eagles, and a Comp EX268h cam; it made 315whp/350wtq.

      My cam is pretty docile at idle, and power falls off after 5k. A bigger head would help it breath up top, and a bigger cam would make some more power.
      Jon Rasmussen
      Ex Team OLJ.
      '72 Nova

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Belle Plaine, MN
      Posts
      1,221
      Country Flag: United States
      I have AFR 210s (pre-Eliminator) and a Comp XR286-R solid roller (248/[email protected], .576/.582 lift, 110 LSA) on my 6-inch rod 383, and it's bitchin'. You could/should have more cam.
      Scott Parkhurst


      2011 Car Craft Real Street Eliminator Winner

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Sep 2002
      Location
      San Jose, CA
      Posts
      1,793
      Some suggestions, I have to be honest, in general I'm not loving your parts selection...

      I never recommend a hi-volume oil-pump on a small block. A stock oil pump is more than capable of emptying the entire contents of the pan into the valve covers at hi-rpm. Get a hi-pressure unit.

      The 70cc heads will put compression a little lower than I'd like, but it's not the end of the world. The Brodix heads are certainly quality units, but for the money there are others I'd be looking at (AFR 210, Edelbrock Vic Jr)

      I have a thing about rocker arms... seen too many cheap ones fail. I can only recommend Harland Sharp, Crane Gold, or Comp Cam's Pro Magnums.

      Edelbrock fuel pumps have an awful reputation. Even my old Edelbrock rep told me not to run them. If you are willing to do the wiring, a Mallory 140 electric pump is hard to beat.

      A 650 just isn't going to be enough for this motor, can't say I'm familiar with the 750 retro-fit setup.

      The HEI is a good setup, without a doubt the MSD Pro-Billet is better... but not a deal breaker.

      I really wouldn't build with a flat-tappet cam. The new oil formulation forces you to either run a hi-end oil, or a ZDDP additive to make the flat-tappet survive. A Hyd Roller cam will make more power and pretty much last forever. It's more expensive, but you get what you pay for. IMHO Crower is doing the most aggressive hydraulic grinds out there right now.
      1971 Camaro, 383 stroker ~500HP,M21 Trans with lightened flywheel. All Sorts of Auto-x Goodness in the Suspension. 12" Brakes ->SOLD

      But ask me about my 2004 STi Auto-x car...

      Just call me Brett

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Location
      Rochester NY
      Posts
      404
      Quote Originally Posted by Lowend View Post
      Some suggestions, I have to be honest, in general I'm not loving your parts selection...

      I never recommend a hi-volume oil-pump on a small block. A stock oil pump is more than capable of emptying the entire contents of the pan into the valve covers at hi-rpm. Get a hi-pressure unit.

      The 70cc heads will put compression a little lower than I'd like, but it's not the end of the world. The Brodix heads are certainly quality units, but for the money there are others I'd be looking at (AFR 210, Edelbrock Vic Jr)

      I have a thing about rocker arms... seen too many cheap ones fail. I can only recommend Harland Sharp, Crane Gold, or Comp Cam's Pro Magnums.

      Edelbrock fuel pumps have an awful reputation. Even my old Edelbrock rep told me not to run them. If you are willing to do the wiring, a Mallory 140 electric pump is hard to beat.

      A 650 just isn't going to be enough for this motor, can't say I'm familiar with the 750 retro-fit setup.

      The HEI is a good setup, without a doubt the MSD Pro-Billet is better... but not a deal breaker.

      I really wouldn't build with a flat-tappet cam. The new oil formulation forces you to either run a hi-end oil, or a ZDDP additive to make the flat-tappet survive. A Hyd Roller cam will make more power and pretty much last forever. It's more expensive, but you get what you pay for. IMHO Crower is doing the most aggressive hydraulic grinds out there right now.

      VERY Helpful -- thank you!!
      Don
      Grace - 67 Camaro daily driver with upgrades along the way.

      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...-Camaro-Driver

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Holmes Hollow, Ontario Canada
      Posts
      991
      Quote Originally Posted by Lowend View Post
      Some suggestions, I have to be honest, in general I'm not loving your parts selection...

      I never recommend a hi-volume oil-pump on a small block. A stock oil pump is more than capable of emptying the entire contents of the pan into the valve covers at hi-rpm. Get a hi-pressure unit.

      The 70cc heads will put compression a little lower than I'd like, but it's not the end of the world. The Brodix heads are certainly quality units, but for the money there are others I'd be looking at (AFR 210, Edelbrock Vic Jr)

      I have a thing about rocker arms... seen too many cheap ones fail. I can only recommend Harland Sharp, Crane Gold, or Comp Cam's Pro Magnums.

      Edelbrock fuel pumps have an awful reputation. Even my old Edelbrock rep told me not to run them. If you are willing to do the wiring, a Mallory 140 electric pump is hard to beat.

      A 650 just isn't going to be enough for this motor, can't say I'm familiar with the 750 retro-fit setup.

      The HEI is a good setup, without a doubt the MSD Pro-Billet is better... but not a deal breaker.

      I really wouldn't build with a flat-tappet cam. The new oil formulation forces you to either run a hi-end oil, or a ZDDP additive to make the flat-tappet survive. A Hyd Roller cam will make more power and pretty much last forever. It's more expensive, but you get what you pay for. IMHO Crower is doing the most aggressive hydraulic grinds out there right now.
      i don't know much about engines but I've always read to go with a high volume or stock. Won't high pressure cause foaming? I honestly don't know and wouldn't mind some more info.
      ____________________________________________
      Scott

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Sep 2002
      Location
      San Jose, CA
      Posts
      1,793
      I've never really seen foaming as an issue with a hi-pressure in a small block chevy.
      1971 Camaro, 383 stroker ~500HP,M21 Trans with lightened flywheel. All Sorts of Auto-x Goodness in the Suspension. 12" Brakes ->SOLD

      But ask me about my 2004 STi Auto-x car...

      Just call me Brett

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Feb 2008
      Location
      Sesser, Il
      Posts
      490
      (sigh...) I just typed out a fairly lengthy response and hit Post Reply. Only to find out the 'net got unplugged...

      Here's a condensed version...

      Have the block zero decked with the pistons and use a .039" or .040" head gasket to keep your quench area tight.

      A hi-volume pump may suck a stock capacity pan dry. Use a stock volume pump in either stock or hi pressure. If you insist on the hi-volume pump, get a pan with more oil capacity.

      A hydraulic roller of either 224/230 or 230/236 on 110* LSA will really wake up a 383 with good heads. I had a 383 with a 218/224 on 112* and it was way too small. This time around I'm going with a 230/236 on 113* LSA (EFI cam).

      Okay, that sums it up... yup, 'net is still plugged in... hit send and away it goes !!!
      Doug Gulley

      66 C10 383, AFR 190, Accel SuperRam, Hyd Roller 230*/236* 280XFI, aftermarket T56, *under construction*

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,709
      Country Flag: United States
      Dump the Brodix, 80s tech heads, spend your cash on AFR heads please, I see so many Brodix fail to deliver, best set of Brodix I have ever seen were bare castings done by a professional head porter, and that guy added 6 lbs of welding rods to "fix" them.
      HEI with up grades is minimum too bad Holley did away with Pro Strip Annihilator ign, those were the bomb.
      Now ICE makes a good set up, Not sure if Jacobs is still in business but they had some awesome stuff too.
      You will need a newer/bigger cam.
      Honestly Irun a lot of stuff through cam quest and also desk top dyno.
      I get a lot of help understanding what actually works on air flow then tweak from there.
      Lee Abel
      AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

      1977 Chevy Monza 2+2:Project "Cheap Trick"
      1978 C10 Long bed , On air and trailer puller
      2006 Buell Blast ,Just a bike to ride and for mileage
      1966 Caprice 4dr Sports Roof fact.327/now 350/SOON 454???? Project "II Old,,,ZERO BUDGET OR LESS CAPRICE!"




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