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    Results 21 to 40 of 58
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      RHODE ISLAND
      Posts
      113
      Country Flag: United States
      I have some backing plates if you want them 50 plus shipping



    2. #22
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      bowling green,ky
      Posts
      845
      Country Flag: United States
      i run the brp kit on the rear of my 69 and they work good for me. plus like was said earlier you get to use a left and right instead of two of the same side. it looks really jacked up to see a car w/caliper on one side facing forward and the other side facing rearward.

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Vancouver, WA
      Posts
      183
      Quote Originally Posted by hifi875 View Post
      i run the brp kit on the rear of my 69 and they work good for me. plus like was said earlier you get to use a left and right instead of two of the same side. it looks really jacked up to see a car w/caliper on one side facing forward and the other side facing rearward.
      Try as I might, I've never been able to see more than one side of my car at a time.

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Westminster, MD
      Posts
      579
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by gort69 View Post
      try as i might, i've never been able to see more than one side of my car at a time.
      lol
      Ed Cooney
      '96 Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon, LT1/4L60, full bolt-ons & Solomon's tune, 18" Ridler wheels, lowered with Belltech springs

      ‘70 Buick Skylark Convertible project w/ GN drivetrain

      '91 Formula, pending track day build


    5. #25
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      zachary louisiana
      Posts
      606
      so not to hijack this thread but if u buy the brackets from brp this allows you to use the r and left harware rather than two lefts if u have staggered shocks..
      1969 camaro ss 372,hotchkis tvs, comp cams 268xe, world products heads, zz4 intake, 670 holley, msd setup eagle alloy 212's, autometer ultra lites......99 console with megashifter, ls1 brakes and a soon to be 700r-4
      http://http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2246580

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      bowling green,ky
      Posts
      845
      Country Flag: United States
      i have a shock relocation kit from them. yea i can only see one side of my car at a time, but still knowing that bugs me. ive never seen any other cars that are like that.

    7. #27
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68firebird View Post
      Ok guys, I'm in negotiations with this guy on ebay, is $195 shipped for these complete rear brakes a good price?

      $195 is a great price shipped. You should have jumped. Local yards won't even sell them without buying the whole rear end. Average online price is $200 without shipping.

      All you need is a 1/8" - 1/4" spacer depending on your rear. You can make one for cheap. I have even cut the center out of the old drum backing plate and used it as a spacer plate with success.

      Try to find a 72 Nova rear, 8.5 in ring gear and cheap parts would make a geat swap for your bird.

      If you relocate your shocks you will be able to use the left and rights as designed.

      Vince
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    8. #28
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      676
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by hifi875 View Post
      i have a shock relocation kit from them. yea i can only see one side of my car at a time, but still knowing that bugs me. ive never seen any other cars that are like that.

      yea, I kinda think the same way, I think just knowing its not symetrical would bother me.
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    9. #29
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      676
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by MrQuick View Post
      $195 is a great price shipped. You should have jumped. Local yards won't even sell them without buying the whole rear end. Average online price is $200 without shipping.

      All you need is a 1/8" - 1/4" spacer depending on your rear. You can make one for cheap. I have even cut the center out of the old drum backing plate and used it as a spacer plate with success.

      Try to find a 72 Nova rear, 8.5 in ring gear and cheap parts would make a geat swap for your bird.

      If you relocate your shocks you will be able to use the left and rights as designed.

      Vince
      thanks for the advice Vince, I think I'm just gonna leave the drums on the back for now until more funds are available, same goes for the rear, I'd love to change it all out now, trust me. but I'm dying to drive this thing around again!!!
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Location
      San Antonio, TEXAS
      Posts
      202
      Quote Originally Posted by MrQuick View Post
      $195 is a great price shipped. You should have jumped. Local yards won't even sell them without buying the whole rear end. Average online price is $200 without shipping.

      Vince

      I have seen these rearends go for $200 complete.

      I'm also wanting to do the ls1 brake conversion on my 2nd gen T/A but not sure what needs to be done. I actually have a complete ls1/t56 dropout with k-member and all. That being said I can take the callipers and hardware off of that and put them in my 2nd gen, right? Or what else is needed?
      2000 Pontiac Trans Am, Ls1/t56, SLP lid, LT's, cut-out, Borla cat-back.

      1980 Pontiac Trans Am, soon to get Ls1/t56 transplant.

    11. #31
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by zamora7 View Post
      I have seen these rearends go for $200 complete.

      I'm also wanting to do the ls1 brake conversion on my 2nd gen T/A but not sure what needs to be done. I actually have a complete ls1/t56 dropout with k-member and all. That being said I can take the callipers and hardware off of that and put them in my 2nd gen, right? Or what else is needed?
      rears are easy but not sure about the fronts...If I remember right you need the same bracket as the C5 kit. Best bet to check with Tobin at Kore.


      Vince
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    12. #32
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Location
      San Antonio, TEXAS
      Posts
      202
      Quote Originally Posted by MrQuick View Post
      rears are easy but not sure about the fronts...If I remember right you need the same bracket as the C5 kit. Best bet to check with Tobin at Kore.


      Vince
      Are they sponsors on here? Can't find them on the right of the site.
      2000 Pontiac Trans Am, Ls1/t56, SLP lid, LT's, cut-out, Borla cat-back.

      1980 Pontiac Trans Am, soon to get Ls1/t56 transplant.

    13. #33
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      yes he is.... member screen name Apogee heres his site... http://www.kore3.com/


      Vince
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    14. #34
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Location
      San Antonio, TEXAS
      Posts
      202
      Quote Originally Posted by MrQuick View Post
      I thought he was.... member screen name Apogee heres his site... http://www.kore3.com/


      Vince
      Cool, thanks for the link and his screen name, I will send him a PM or email here shortly. Thanks again.
      2000 Pontiac Trans Am, Ls1/t56, SLP lid, LT's, cut-out, Borla cat-back.

      1980 Pontiac Trans Am, soon to get Ls1/t56 transplant.

    15. #35
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      1,231
      Hate to revive old threads, but it's relevant.

      As far as the rear e-brake goes, why can't the e-brake cable from the LS1 just be wrapped around the rear like a 4th gen?

      Can I just chop the rear of the cable (the part that connects to the backing plate/brake) and connect/weld/whatever it to the stock 1st gen parking brake cable?

      I read the link on camaros.net, I'm not familiar with the terms, so I'm unsure as what to make of it.
      Dan
      1968 Camaro v2
      LS6 :: Viper T56 :: C5 Brakes :: Hotchkis Suspension


    16. #36
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Vancouver, WA
      Posts
      183
      Quote Originally Posted by Vicinity View Post
      Hate to revive old threads, but it's relevant.

      As far as the rear e-brake goes, why can't the e-brake cable from the LS1 just be wrapped around the rear like a 4th gen? Sure you can - I just wanted mine to pull toward the front and not have to snake very long cables around the exhaust. But it would work just fine.

      Can I just chop the rear of the cable (the part that connects to the backing plate/brake) and connect/weld/whatever it to the stock 1st gen parking brake cable? I suppose, but youll still need some sort of cable housing stop. The factory drums use the backing plates as the housing stops. I think it's easier to shorten the LS1 cables and build a simple bracket.

      I read the link on camaros.net, I'm not familiar with the terms, so I'm unsure as what to make of it.
      I did the writeup on Camaros.net, and don't mind answering any questions you might have. There is certainly more than one way to skin a cat. Ask away!

    17. #37
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Dallas TX
      Posts
      1,633
      I think most of you missed Tobins post above. Assuming this is a Pontiac rear with bolt in axles more is needed than just a spacer to make this work. The bearing retainer sticks out past the axle flange so if you just mount the LS1 backing plate with a spacer then you axles have about an half inch to slid in and out. I did mine using a collar / spacer I had made on a lathe. (See below) This allows the proper bearing retention with the much thicker LS1 backplate. You do have to pull the bearings off the axle to do it that way though.


    18. #38
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      rainy ass NW
      Posts
      74
      how thick is the collar you made, or will it vary between axles?

      what size wheels do these LS'ers clear. i have my stocker ralley II's (14") right now.

      this will be kind of an inbetween upgrade for me if they clear the 14's, if not i'll drum it a lil longer. winter brings, C5 Z's in 18's

      '69 Figherbird
      beauty's not in the budget

    19. #39
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      1,231
      Quote Originally Posted by ProTour69Bird View Post
      how thick is the collar you made, or will it vary between axles?

      what size wheels do these LS'ers clear. i have my stocker ralley II's (14") right now.

      this will be kind of an inbetween upgrade for me if they clear the 14's, if not i'll drum it a lil longer. winter brings, C5 Z's in 18's
      They MIGHT clear 15 inch wheels, but stock ls1 wheels were 16 inches.
      Dan
      1968 Camaro v2
      LS6 :: Viper T56 :: C5 Brakes :: Hotchkis Suspension


    20. #40
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Location
      Dallas, TX
      Posts
      260
      I've seem people say that they might clear 15's, but I wonder what 15's they may actually clear. It would be nice to know of a wheel that clears in we want to get a set of stickies for the strip. 15's just seem appropriate.
      '69 Chevelle - LQ4/T56
      '71 GMC SWB Fleetside - LM7/AR5

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