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    1. #1
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      676
      Country Flag: United States

      Is there an LS1 conversion kit for the rear?

      I just bought an LS1 conversion kit and some calipers for the front of the firebird, but my question is does anyone sell a LS1 conversion kit for the rear? I can't seem to find one, or do i just need a bracket like the one below and supply the calipers and rotors? I'm not 100% sure what rearend is in the car, all I know is it was originally a straight six car, so I'm sure its one of GM's weakest rearends, if that matters. thanks for any help.


      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      Nothern California
      Posts
      259
      Country Flag: United States
      Tobin at KORE3 is your best call to make on these items.

      http://www.kore3.com/

      Email: [email protected]
      Orders: 800.357.5467
      Tech: 541.924.5673
      Guy S.

      68 Camaro LS1, T56, Forgeline WC3
      69 El Camino BBC 4spd A/C Cruise SOLD
      2012 Dodge Crewcab Diesel 4x4

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Vancouver, WA
      Posts
      183
      Factory LS1 brakes are about as close to a bolt-on swap as there is. A minor amount of fabricating is necessary, but nothing terribly difficult. The real advantage of the LS1 swap in my opinion is the excellent drum-in-rotor hat parking brake. The brakes themselvers are excellent as well.

      Here's a writeup I did on the swap at Team Camaro.

      http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=161383

    4. #4
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      676
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by gort69 View Post
      Factory LS1 brakes are about as close to a bolt-on swap as there is. A minor amount of fabricating is necessary, but nothing terribly difficult. The real advantage of the LS1 swap in my opinion is the excellent drum-in-rotor hat parking brake. The brakes themselvers are excellent as well.

      Here's a writeup I did on the swap at Team Camaro.

      http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=161383
      thank you Al. In your spacer section you mention that it goes between the LS1 backing plate and the axle flange, my question is where did you find the LS1 backing plate, I can't seem to find them anywhere. I can find the calipers and rotors and thats it. Can I use a bracket like the one pictured above? I'm sorry, I'm a total newbie at this.
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,845
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68firebird View Post
      thank you Al. In your spacer section you mention that it goes between the LS1 backing plate and the axle flange, my question is where did you find the LS1 backing plate, I can't seem to find them anywhere. I can find the calipers and rotors and thats it. Can I use a bracket like the one pictured above? I'm sorry, I'm a total newbie at this.
      BRP Hotrods sells them on their website and also on ebay.
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    6. #6
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Posts
      54
      look in the classifieds section of LS1tech.com or on ebay. i got my backing plates off ls1tech there are usually quite a few cars being parted out..

    7. #7
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      676
      Country Flag: United States
      Ok guys, I'm in negotiations with this guy on ebay, is $195 shipped for these complete rear brakes a good price?

      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Vancouver, WA
      Posts
      183
      Quote Originally Posted by 68firebird View Post
      Ok guys, I'm in negotiations with this guy on ebay, is $195 shipped for these complete rear brakes a good price?

      Well it's an "OK" price. Personally, I wouldn't pay to have rusty old crappy rotors shipped across the country. For the price you pay to have the extra weight shipped you'd be well on your way to buying new rotors at your local parts house. They aren't expensive.

      You also have to remember that your 68 bird has staggered shocks. Some have made it work using a R and a L LS1 backing plate. I used two Ls, so essentially had to buy two sets, as it's hard - but not unheard of - to get just one.

      Somewhere in the article I linked is another link to GM part numbers. The backing plates are still available new AFAIK - not sure on the prices. Here it is http://www.poltergeist.us/page/Elky/.../ls1brakes.htm

      PS In the write-up I linked, I said 3/8 seems to be be the most common thickness for the spacer. Scratch that, I meant to say 3/16".

    9. #9
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      676
      Country Flag: United States
      K, I'll skip on that then, thank you. I'm gonna try and find those damn backing plates.
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Vancouver, WA
      Posts
      183
      Yeah, if you're not in a rush you can do better. I pulled a complete set of rears off of a low mileage '00 for $100. Craigslist deal.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Houston, TX
      Posts
      1,197
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68firebird View Post
      K, I'll skip on that then, thank you. I'm gonna try and find those damn backing plates.
      If you're not in a hurry, wait for it on ebay. I bought mine for $90 shipped, minus the rotors.
      Tu Ho
      Firebird V2-LS swap

    12. #12
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      676
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by rickpaw View Post
      If you're not in a hurry, wait for it on ebay. I bought mine for $90 shipped, minus the rotors.
      yea, I'm not in a rush, so I'll keep an eye on ebay and at the same time keep browsing other companies rear conversions. thanks guys.
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,845
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68firebird View Post
      K, I'll skip on that then, thank you. I'm gonna try and find those damn backing plates.
      They are on ebay for $39 from BRP Hotrods:

      http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10-12...Q5fAccessories
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Posts
      345
      Quote Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
      They are on ebay for $39 from BRP Hotrods:
      They aren't backing plates. Just a spacer. Which I am not sure are even required. After removing the drum brake anchor portion of the flange and re-drilled the holes. I've bolted stock LS1 backing plates right to the tube flange of corporate 10-bolts.

      Note that in the Team Camaro thread that conversion required a .180 - .200 spacer between the backing plates and the tube flanges. Although the installer didn't mention whether the rear was the early 10-bolt or a 12-bolt.

      Bob.

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Vancouver, WA
      Posts
      183
      It's an 8.2" 10 bolt from a 68 Camaro. My understanding is that the early 12 bolts are the same.

      I mentioned in the write-up that some don't use a spacer at all, and to mock it up and have a look see. Mine was definitely in need - the rotor would have grazed the abutment, or at least very close, I forget exactly.

      Have read that the axle plant wasn't terribly consistent in where the flange was welded in relation to the axle face.

      Being that it's a floating caliper probably not necessary to get it dead nuts centered, but as close as you can.

      The spacer - if needed - not only centers the rotor in the abutment, it also properly locates the e-brake shoe in the rotor hat.

      I'm switching to an 8.5 10 bolt from a 79 Nova in a month or so, and will re-visit that part of the swap.

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,773
      Country Flag: United States
      Not to make things more complicated, but it makes a difference if you're working with a BOP 10/12-bolt with positively retained axles versus a 10/12-bolt with c-clips. The center hole on the LS1 backing plates is 72mm [2.835"] and the BOP axle bearing has only a 2.75" outside diameter. What this means is that you'll need to machine a spacer to go between your original retainer (assuming it can move outward on the axle far enough) or machine your own retainer. Anything that isn't an open "C" profile or two pieces will require the removal of the axle bearings for installation.

      Tobin
      KORE3
      It's what I does.

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Westminster, MD
      Posts
      579
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
      They are on ebay for $39 from BRP Hotrods:

      http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10-12...Q5fAccessories
      I was looking at these as well. In the item description they mention an available inboard shock mounting kit they have allowing the use of both L & R calipers.
      Ed Cooney
      '96 Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon, LT1/4L60, full bolt-ons & Solomon's tune, 18" Ridler wheels, lowered with Belltech springs

      ‘70 Buick Skylark Convertible project w/ GN drivetrain

      '91 Formula, pending track day build


    18. #18
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Posts
      59
      Those spacers are needed to take up the space of the original drum backing plates. Im abit frugal so a couple $'s worth of washers work just fine too.



      Quote Originally Posted by Apogee View Post
      Not to make things more complicated, but it makes a difference if you're working with a BOP 10/12-bolt with positively retained axles versus a 10/12-bolt with c-clips. The center hole on the LS1 backing plates is 72mm [2.835"] and the BOP axle bearing has only a 2.75" outside diameter. What this means is that you'll need to machine a spacer to go between your original retainer (assuming it can move outward on the axle far enough) or machine your own retainer. Anything that isn't an open "C" profile or two pieces will require the removal of the axle bearings for installation.

      Tobin
      KORE3
      When I swapped the blazer rear discs onto my olds 10bolt my first thought was similar to that. The other brain storm I had was that I found everything bolts up perfectly by slotting the axle retainer to remove it so the disc mounting plates can be installed on the axle first and bolted to the outside of the axle retainer.


    19. #19
      Join Date
      Jun 2007
      Location
      St. Pete FL
      Posts
      934
      Country Flag: United States
      Ed, that is correct but I don't see it listed on their web page anymore :( I have it on my car (& may sell it b/c of the $$$ suspension parts I got) so if you need pics LMK & I can try to post some.
      HELP!!!
      1973 TA 4 spd #'s match red/white = STOLEN
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...55#post1106255

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Posts
      125
      FYI, I wouldnt waste your money on the BRP spacers. I just did this conversion on a 70 chevelle 12 bolt and the spacers did not center the abutment. I still ended up having to add washers to get centered. May as well just save $40 and make your own spacers. And, on the chevelle I mounted the calipers and backing plates on opp. sides so the Ebrake levers would pull forward.

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