want to bring temp down 200-210

[GRNOVA]

Ok so I am still tackling things before the MMC I need to find a way to get more cooling so I decided to remove the trans cooler from in front of the rad will this help?

Secondly does anyone see a way to enhance my duel fan setup for more air movement? I herd somthing about cutting holes on the shroud but doesent that defeat the purpose of the shroud?

And lastly I covered all the holes in the core support to just direct the air into the rad.











Also where can I mount the trans cooler and should it have its own fan?

[CarlC]

When does it get warm? Idle? Cruise? Hammering it?

[GRNOVA]

When I am practicing for autocrossing in a parking lot. When crusing and hamming on it a bit. It has only been in the low 70* my concern is when it gets hotter out.

[Gitter Dun]

Moving the trans cooler from its original location is definitely gonna help(looked like it was dead center of radiator). Its looks like you are going to have to fabricate some mounts behind the grill, closer to your head lights. That is what I did with my engine oil cooler. But I think you quoted that you wanted to get down to 200-210. That still seems too hot to me. I wouldn't want to run any hotter than 190 in my car. Is the radiator that you have rated for your horse power output?

[GRNOVA]

The car is running 200-210 would like 180-190. I know it is not much but I would feel better seeing it has only been in the low 70's outside when I am driving it.
Just looking for a little tricks and ideas to cool her down.

[GRNOVA]

Just finished installing a trans heat sink removed the cooler from the front now it is wide open.

[Gitter Dun]

Hope it helps but I think your do for a radiator upgrade. 200-210 too hot. Like I previously said I wouldn't wanna run over 190 and prefer to run at 180.

[H2Ogbodies]

If you want to keep your combustion chamber temps down, try running a methonal injection. I have a lot of tuning tips using various water tricks but a methanol injection will help you out a lot! I have some ideas for a different cooling fan too....that one you have in the pic prolly only draws about 2500 CFM if I had to guess. PM me and I can give you a list of ideas and tricks to cool you off.

[Pabst]

i would address the fan BEFORE the radiator. the fan pulls the air through the radiator, no sense is upgrading the radiator if the fan isnt doing the job it needs to do.

if you replace the fan and it improves temp, great, even if it doesnt it's still better to have a fan that pulls more CFM regardless because it will work better when you get a better radiator.

i like a high CFM fan. i'm using the old black magic fan by flex a lite and it keeps things at 180 BUT the shroud doesnt cover as much of the core as i would like, their extreme black magic fan has a larger shroud covering more area and pulls a little more air than mine.

just my opinion.

[H2Ogbodies]

Okay, anything with forced induction builds tremendous heat...imo you need a much higher CFM rated fan and a standard flow water pump. Don't go for high volume/flow because it'll move your coolant through too fast and lessen the time for the fan to pull heat out. My advice is this:

1.) water by-pass
2.) standard flow water pump
3.) Mark VIII or Taurus fan

[6'9"Witha69]

And maybe open up the hole in your core support if it is covering a large area of the fins.

[MonzaRacer]

so why are you worried about 200-210, this is good running temp and if it doesnt climb above and cools down on road driving then your all good, if it get hotter then your going to need to do something.
2 issues can be result, pushing hot air into engine compartment but not venting compartment, or your not letting coolant sit in rad long enough to drop its temp befroe getting picked back up by water pump.
Now if system is clean try a bottle of Water Wetter and less antifreeze, just remember to use a water pump lube in water.
Now if your still worrying, give Evan Cooling a call at 1-888-990-2665, get at least a gallon of flush, and 2 or 3 gallons of NPG+ and switch it over ,,,trust me this stuff is awesome.
Boiling point of 375 with no pressure, you can run like a 4 psi cap and never have an issue again if the rest of your system is working.
Honestly Ihave been building engines running in that range and if system is up to snuff, ie it doesnt keep climbing its all good.
Heat is power unless it leads to preignition/spark knock.
Also those fancy flexy hoses always cause some flow issues but dont really think you have an issue as long as it doesnt climb over that.
Lee Abel
AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

[GRNOVA]

Can some one help me Identify these fans I think they are out of a 96 or 7 Camaro. I want to know if they are enough cfm for my 600 horse engine?





I also added a cover for top of grill to force air into rad. The NPGR will be here tomorrow.

[GRNOVA]

Look what arrived a day early! Bruno was sniffing the box!

[ssx]

I've got some cooling issues with my Nova too. The heat here at 90+ degrees and crawling stop and go traffic cause my car to get to 200-210 too. Doesn't help that where I live, the terrain is not flat so lots of hills to climb etc. Was thinking about getting a new radiator with a dual fan set up, but I don't have the clearance in my engine at the moment without changing everything over to a shot waterpump setup. Anyway, Hope you get the cooling problems resolved because that 65' is beyond beautiful...

[GRNOVA]

I am proud to say that my temp problems are over I took the car out today for a 48 mi drive and I did not go over 185*. I was getting on it also,stop and go traffic, everything. I am so relieved.

[H2Ogbodies]

Awesome! Dude, the look on your dogs face is priceless! What a pic! lol

[GRNOVA]

Still might look into the Meth injection maybe end of summer. I just want to go and play now! Thanks for all your help!H2O

[Gitter Dun]

Awesome! Dude, the look on your dogs face is priceless! What a pic! lol

X2, right on. I would call Evan's and get your dog a job on their ad campaign, LOL

[DarkoNova]

Okay, anything with forced induction builds tremendous heat...imo you need a much higher CFM rated fan and a standard flow water pump. Don't go for high volume/flow because it'll move your coolant through too fast and lessen the time for the fan to pull heat out. My advice is this:

1.) water by-pass
2.) standard flow water pump
3.) Mark VIII or Taurus fan

This myth needs to stop already.

There is no such thing as moving the water "too fast" through the radiator. Cooling is directly proportional to speed, and the faster the coolant flows, the better it will be cooled.

When I needed a new water pump for my 350, I went with a Stewart Stage II high flow pump. It flowed so much that I had to take my mechanical fan off because the gauge never went above 120. With the fan off it finally got back up to 180-ish.

Matt