Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Page 5 of 20 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 15 ... LastLast
    Results 81 to 100 of 443

    Hybrid View

    1. #1
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      675
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ionizer View Post
      Wheels look Suhweeet!! (oh I found bumper brackets)...
      and I am so drooling over those disc brakes...
      thanks man, where did you find the brackets? as far as the brakes, they look damn good, but I can't wait to actually try them out.

      ok, did some tire searching this weekend. I'm going to order in a couple hankook ventus hrII tires, size 215/40 16 or 245/50 16. They are $81 or $88 a piece with free shipping from discount tire direct, can't beat that on a budget, and they are essentially temporary tires for the temporary rims, so no need to spend crazy money on them. I don't really know how the 40 series will look on the bird though so I think I'm leaning toward the 50's. Any professional input on this?



      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Location
      Utah
      Posts
      230
      225/50/16 is fairly common too. But 245/50's would be nicer if they fit for ya. Love the progress and the budget build. Something the "regular Joe's" can appreciate. Can't wait to see how she looks on the ground with the "Poncho Wheels".

    3. #3
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Location
      Minnesota
      Posts
      615
      It's hard to see with the shock in but make sure the spring is in the upper mount correctly. There are tabs that the coil sits around. Then check to make sure the lower part of the coil is indexed in the lower control arm correctly. Next take measurements from the center of all four rims to the edge of the fenders and quarters. Make sure the rear leafs are not adding to the problem.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      675
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the advice, I'll have to check those areas, the rear is on jackstands still so I don't know if that would have anything to do with it. Driver's side measures 24 3/4 inches from floor to bottom of fender lip and passenger side measures 25 1/2. So I've got 3/4 of an inch difference, and I'm pretty sure the passenger side is what it should sit like. I might just drop the lower arm and reseat the spring. Done for the day though. I think the best thing for me to do is wait until the rear is off jackstands before I do anthing.
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    5. #5
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      675
      Country Flag: United States
      I dropped the drivers side control arm and re-seated the spring, put everything back on and still have 3/4 inch difference from drivers to pass side. I'll do the same to the pass side tomorrow or tuesday to see what the results are.

      But from the looks of how this thing is sitting these tires I have won't work. I think they'll rub the fender lip on a nice big bump. I think I'm returning them and getting the 215/40, or maybe I'll go with a 225/45, ahhhhhhhhhhhhh I don't know!!! this part is getting frustrating!!!!!!
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Posts
      2,624
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68firebird View Post
      But from the looks of how this thing is sitting these tires I have won't work. I think they'll rub the fender lip on a nice big bump. I think I'm returning them and getting the 215/40, or maybe I'll go with a 225/45, ahhhhhhhhhhhhh I don't know!!! this part is getting frustrating!!!!!!
      Well we tried to warn you on the rim dimensions being a problem. Sometimes the "free" stuff ends up costing more and being a big headache when all is said and done.

      Anyway, the front size to try next is the 225/55R16. Did you test the 245/50s for the back yet (with the correct rim offset, since the fronts and back are different on the IROC)?
      Red Forman: "The Mustang's front end is problematic; get yourself a Firebird."

    7. #7
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      675
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68Formula View Post
      Well we tried to warn you on the rim dimensions being a problem. Sometimes the "free" stuff ends up costing more and being a big headache when all is said and done.

      Anyway, the front size to try next is the 225/55R16. Did you test the 245/50s for the back yet (with the correct rim offset, since the fronts and back are different on the IROC)?
      Yea, I know, don't rub it in, haha. I haven't given up all hope yet. When I typed the last post I was a bit aggravated. we'll see what happens this week. Just wish I had a full day to be able to work on it, I hate having to wait!
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    8. #8
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Location
      Minnesota
      Posts
      615
      Were the control arm bolts torqued down after the car was on the ground?

    9. #9
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      675
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68400BIRD View Post
      Were the control arm bolts torqued down after the car was on the ground?
      The bottom ones were, but even with the subframe on jackstands the difference in meaurement is there. I have to do a bunch of measurements tonight, this is starting to piss me off!
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Feb 2010
      Location
      Central NJ
      Posts
      791
      Looking good man!.. really like the wheels... Despite the problems keep in mind how far its come from being a storage shelf a few months ago... you'll figure it out...

    11. #11
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      675
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by sr73bu View Post
      Looking good man!.. really like the wheels... Despite the problems keep in mind how far its come from being a storage shelf a few months ago... you'll figure it out...

      thanks, I'm definitely trying to stay positive, I just want to drive this thing soooooooooo bad!! walked around a cruise night for a bit last night and it only fueled the fire, lol.

      started installing my global west solid body mounts last night, I'm hoping this will solve some of my issues with the body being slightly lower on the drivers side. some of the old bushings were so shot and squished that the bolts started unthreading with no effort at all. I was having a problem getting the drivers radiator support bushing out, so I just put the firewall one in and the one further back, loosely theaded the bolts in and I'll try and tackle it again tonight, hopefully get all the new mounts in tonight, but with the way things are going lately I'll probably run into some kind of problem.

      One other change, The rims I'm using are from a 92 camaro, they are 16X8's front and back, but the front are 4.35 backspace and the rears are 5.00 backspace. after a bunch of research yesterday I decided to put the backs on the front and the fronts on the back. I think thats going to solve some issues too. now the lip of the rim in the front is actually inside the wheel well, not almost even with the lip, and it just clears the tie rod. instead of me having to run a big spacer in the rear (almost an inch or so on each side), now Its going to be a small one, if any at all. and I can use the 245/50's that I ordered in for the front, I'll just order some 225/50's for the front now.
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68firebird View Post
      16X8's front and back, but the front are 4.35 backspace and the rears are 5.00 backspace.
      Same thing when using IROC wheels on a second gen....fronts to the back and visa-versa due to the back spacing.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    13. #13
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Posts
      2,624
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68firebird View Post
      i'll just order some 225/50's for the front now.
      225/55r16
      Red Forman: "The Mustang's front end is problematic; get yourself a Firebird."

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Albemarle, NC
      Posts
      1,170
      Country Flag: United States
      i hope youve thought of this already, but ill make a suggestion. try going to some local tire shops. dig through their junk tire piles. find sizes you think might work. mount them, and try them. hell of a lot cheaper than guessing and not eing able to return the new ones once theyre mounted.
      Michael Crawford

      1970 plymouth Duster back under construction:
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...uring-makeover

      1987 GMC S15 https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ct-drivabeater

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Sweet....looks like you're getting closer. BTW, there aren't many of these old cars that sat completely level from sie to side...My car, even after all of the new suspension and body bushings sat 3/8" higher on one side.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    16. #16
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      675
      Country Flag: United States
      Ok, while installing the mounts I believe the welded nut under the drivers seat snapped (and of course I don't have the slightest idea of how to fix it) thats the last one that needed tightening of course, oh and there still is about a 3/4" difference in how it sits, now the gap between the door and fender was off on the bottom and of course I didn't realize it until AFTER I opened the door, which in turn scraped the paint from the edge on a couple spots. I'm taking a break from this thing for a while. After all the BS its givin me the last week I'm extremely low on patience and I'm ready to sell it.
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Posts
      24

      I feel your pain!

      I have felt the same way you have for a month now. After work 3 to 4 days a week I drive 60 miles oneway to help my dad finish the build we started 5 years ago. We also have had a few bumps along the way. We are currently finishing the wiring and a hot test wire slipped out of my hand and arced across our new wilwood chrome brake booster ruining the chrome in the areas it hit. Also chipped the paint on one of the doors during assembly. I feel like somedays I drive 120 miles to work on the car for 3 hours and get nothing done.

      Car looks great..keep up the good work!

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Rockford Illinois
      Posts
      3,949
      Country Flag: United States
      Hang in there and give it a break for a few days and then get back to it. Everything you are are having happen comes with doing a car yourself. It happens to us all in some place or another. You will have better moments when it runs !!!!!!

      I'll be wondering how you feel when you see all the hard work almost done and you wish you had it back if you sold it unfinshed.

      Good luck
      May The Horsepower Be With You !!!

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Posts
      152
      Quote Originally Posted by 68firebird View Post
      Ok, while installing the mounts I believe the welded nut under the drivers seat snapped (and of course I don't have the slightest idea of how to fix it) thats the last one that needed tightening of course, oh and there still is about a 3/4" difference in how it sits, now the gap between the door and fender was off on the bottom and of course I didn't realize it until AFTER I opened the door, which in turn scraped the paint from the edge on a couple spots. I'm taking a break from this thing for a while. After all the BS its givin me the last week I'm extremely low on patience and I'm ready to sell it.

      Hi '68Bird,

      I found the same unlevel on my ride too. I didn't want to spend anything...and didn't want to scratch my head , so I swapped the spring L to R / R to L ... it worked.

      But your knuckles may complain a bit though !


      Cheers,


      GM



      .

    20. #20
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      675
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by George Manont View Post
      Hi '68Bird,

      I found the same unlevel on my ride too. I didn't want to spend anything...and didn't want to scratch my head , so I swapped the spring L to R / R to L ... it worked.

      But your knuckles may complain a bit though !


      Cheers,


      GM



      .
      Thanks GM, I was thinking of swapping the springs but was unsure if it really was going to make a difference. since it worked for you I guess I'll give that a try after my little break.

      thanks for the votes of confidence guys. I have very little patience to begin with and when stuff just goes wrong more than I'd like I get like that. I'll hop back on this after a little break, maybe this weekend.

      Ok guys, Please let me know what I'm in for with the nut for the body mount. its the one under the drivers seat. Is it a real pain in the ass to fix? If it requires welding I'm kinda screwed since I never welded in my life. Guess my first step would be to get the gap between the fender and the door correct so I don't keep messing the paint up, LOL. I wish I had some of you guys skills.
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    Page 5 of 20 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 15 ... LastLast



    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com