Project SicMonte

[SicMonte]

Next step is to install the lower Delrin washers....





Then put on the spring....







Then the upper Delrin washer....

[SicMonte]

Next you install the upper spring retainer. ridetech offers two different retainer...the low and tall...and on a gbody you need to use the tall one due to the factory spring pocket clearance issues.


Here's a pic of the two different upper spring retainers.





So I used the new one that ridetech sent to me which was brushed aluminum (maybe clear anodized) instead of the old anodized black one.

[SicMonte]

Next install the small metal clip that will actually hold the upper spring retainer in place once tension from the coil spring is applied.





Screw up the spring to apply tension....





Last thing to do is tighten up the screw in the lower spring mount/adjuster so that it doesn't back out.

[SicMonte]

Now on to the rear coilover.....here it is!!!





First step is to take out this lil clip that holds in the trunnion bar.





Then install the lower shock mount/adjuster just like we did on the fronts. Don't forget to use the trick of the trade!!!

[SicMonte]

Next install the lower Delrin washer...spring...then the upper Delrin washer.





Next step is to install the upper spring retainer (flat one). In order to get the spring retainer on you will need to screw in the adjustment knob all the way in and take off the knob. The lil screw that holds on the knob is a T10...a torx bit.

[SicMonte]

Next you need to put on the upper spring mount retainer clip.





Put the adjustment knob back on...add some spring tension to the upper mount...re install the Trunion bar and press on the metal clip and Boom...it's done!!!

[SicMonte]

And there ya have it....ridetech TQ Coilovers assembled and ready to be installed...tuned...and thrashed!!!





Now I did receive some insider tips on these coilovers from two people who have been running these for a couple years now. They actually mounted them upside down in order to have the reservoir hose closer to the trunk to make installing the reservoir easier and to bring the adjustment knob within better reach. I will be taking the coilovers apart soon...switching the Trunnion bar to the opposite side...and re-assembling the coilovers so that this is the way it will be in my car. MAKES SENSE RIGHT??!!

[carguykeith]

That rearend buildup looks familiar for some reason... Only thing I didn't see mentioned that I would HIGHLY recomend is welding the tubes to 3rd member, I did it myself with a stick welder using nickle rod it was cheap and easy. Also with as low as you are, I would look into the LCA relocation brackets.

Super jealous of those coilovers BTW!!

[Norm Peterson]

As soon as you add relo brackets, any need to weld the axle tubes becomes more urgent. I'm not saying don't weld the tubes, more like make sure you do if you install the brackets. FWIW, welding the tubes is probably a job best left to somebody with experience welding castings.


Norm

[SicMonte]

That rearend buildup looks familiar for some reason... Only thing I didn't see mentioned that I would HIGHLY recomend is welding the tubes to 3rd member, I did it myself with a stick welder using nickle rod it was cheap and easy. Also with as low as you are, I would look into the LCA relocation brackets.

Super jealous of those coilovers BTW!!

I forgot to add that part!! The tubes will be welded to the third member.

Now let's start an informative debate:

Pros vs Cons of LCA relocation brackets.

I've heard that they are needed and not needed.

[SickSpeedMonte]

Well, "needed" is kind of relative. We don't "need" to fix the upside-down camber curve to go around turns, but it helps. Relocating the LCA's changes the instant center, which then changes the anti-squat and rear roll center. When you lower the car, the IC drops. When the IC drops, you get less vertical force with longitudinal force (acceleration). Generally, you tune the anti-squat to your tires, but lowering a G-body 3-4 inches in the rear puts the IC too low by any account. LCA relo brackets help some but the UCA's need it too. LCA brackets are better than nothing though.

I noticed an improvement in launch on street tires when I moved the rear LCA mounts down. Getting the LCA's closer to parallel with the ground will help reduce rear axle roll understeer too.

Also, you should know that if the LCA brackets are designed for drag racing (which I believe most are), they will be set up for a rear ride height that is close to stock. With the car lowered, it pushes the rear axle backwards. That hurts weight distribution and just looks funny. So if you install them, mark the rear axle centerline with a plumb bob and position the rear axle there when you mock them up using the LCA. If you have adjustable lowers, then you probably have enough adjustment to not have to worry about clocking the brackets, but you should still measure and position the rear axle when you adjust them.

[carguykeith]

What he ^ said...

Sickspeed has a better handle on this than me, but I can say it made a noticable difference in acceleleration. Not saying they are the only ones but I know my UMI brackets did not move the axle centerline with non-adjustable lowers.

[SickSpeedMonte]

Good to know. I have the BMR's and they pushed the axle back.

[SicMonte]

so are these bolt on or weld in?

[Norm Peterson]

I'd weld them on regardless, leaving the bolts in place.


Norm

[SicMonte]

Looks like I will be making a call to UMI for a set of their brackets.

[SickSpeedMonte]

so are these bolt on or weld in?

They were bolted on and then welded on.

[Ben@SpeedTech]

When I went to the Viking coilovers all around I used Speedtech's coilover conversion brackets which have 3 position settings. I noticed in photos of my car accelerating out of corners and videos from drag racing that my car would noticeably squat with my low stance and the arms in the stock location. I moved the lower arms one notch down and now the car pushes forward rather than squatting. It goes along with what Sick Speed said above, it totally changes the geometry and dynamics of the rear suspension. Ultimately as has been said your arms should be relatively parallel to the ground to put you near optimum. BTW I know you've already got parts, but for those reading along and looking for trailing arms, the Speedtech Articulink upper and lower arms are both adjustable to help with setting pinion angle and centering the axle.

[SicMonte]

Dropping the 8.5 rear off on Thursday to have it built and the tubes welded up.....cant wait!!!

[SicMonte]

I've been getting a lot of crap recently about my car not being done. Here is the current state of my car: Trans "mocked" up, no suspension, no rear, old oil pan still on.

Tonight I will start the process of pulling out the motor to install the new Canton Road Race oil pan. I have to remove the motor b/c the T56 will not allow me to raise the motor enough to install the pan so the motor is coming out. I hope that this does not lead to more projects b/c I am sick of projects and tired of spending money on this car.

After the oil pan is installed and the motor is back in I will finish up with the T56 install by bolting up my Centerforce® Clutches Dual Friction clutch, installing the Rick Kim Performance T56 and GForce cross-member and the final step is getting the Bernie Duplan SICKSPEED pedal assembly sorted out.

Moving right along to the suspension next. My ridetech TQ coilovers are already assembled. I am currently waiting on my UMI Performance Inc. suspension to be completed. Once that is received I can throw the suspension together and mount up my recently built 8.5" 10 bolt rear. This baby has 30 spline axles, Inland Empire 1350 yoke and a Tru-Trac diff with 3.73 gears. The rear brakes still have not been determined yet. I'm debating on keeping the stock drums (highly unlikely), doing a basic C5 rear disc swap or go all out and get the Baer Brakes SS4 set up (anyone out there at Baer wanna hook me up?).

Once the rear is in and all the suspension is set up I can throw on my CCW Forged Wheels "Classics" and properly measure for an aluminum drive shaft. I also need to get some BFGoodrich Rivals at some point. This will be the last piece of the building puzzle. After that is said and done I will have to drive it a bunch to fine tune everything and then drop it off at a friends shop to have a cross bar added to the "cage" to make is legal to compete in SCCA events. Then it's off to some events to see what else I can break on this car.

So I know this car has been down for a long time and I am just fine with that. It will get done at my own pace and when my back starts to hurts I will stop working until the pain goes away which could take days. I work slow, over think things and obsess about the dumbest smallest things but it will get done and we will see you at the Syracuse Nationals, Cruisin the Smokies, Cruisin Ocean City, some CDC events, some SCCA autox's and hopefully the Polish Mountain Hill Climb again.