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    Results 21 to 32 of 32
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Aug 2003
      Location
      Prescott Valley, AZ
      Posts
      820
      I don’t mean to sound pissy, but don’t you think that this is a very simple thing to do. You are joining two wires together… two copper wires. If you want to solder them or use connecters, they do the same thing. Personally, I have wired over 300 trailers using connecters and never had a return. Just make sure that the tension is never on the connection (zip tie them before or after) and use split or mesh loom and your golden.

      It's shake and bake!!! and i helped!
      Drewco Homes


    2. #22
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
      Country Flag: United States
      I just repaired my wife's mini-van fan relay and soldered all the connections (because my previous repair from several years ago failed ... and yes, I used crimped connections)

      I was practically frothing at the mouth with how slowly my soldering iron worked.

      So ... since I have all the wiring to do on II Much; I need a new/better tool to solder with. Anybody got a recommendation?

      thanks,
      jp
      John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    3. #23
      dennis68 Guest
      John, the butane tools work well as they give you the flexibility to move around (or under the dash) without that damn cord in the way. I use a Blue-point pencil type iron, works well.

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
      Country Flag: United States
      Hey Denny,

      Thanks. Great minds, I guess. I was just on the Snap-on website looking at those.

      Followup question: is it a problem melting insulation with the butane torches?

      jp
      John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    5. #25
      dennis68 Guest
      You may want to try and avoid it but a little charred insulation is OK, you're going to shrink wrap anyways and it will cover the cosmetic ugliness.

      Remember the key to a good connection is not to overheat the wire, if you are burning a bunch of insulation it may require a tweak to your technique.

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
      Country Flag: United States
      Ok, sounds good. I'll do some practice setups with the torch first.

      thanks again.
      jp
      John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Nov 2004
      Location
      Roanoke, VA
      Posts
      515
      Quote Originally Posted by dennis68
      Take an electrical conector with no insulation-crimp the wire to the connector-solder the connection-seal the connection with heat shrink (preferably the good stuff with the goo inside).

      If you crimp after solder it is likely the connection will break.
      If the connection is not in a controlled enviroment then solder it/heat shrink it. As an industrial electronics tech for the past 19yrs+ I agree with dennis68 110%.

      BTW, do NOT use scotch locks on ANYTHING unless you enjoy going completely insane trouble shooting electrical problems. Those things arent even allowed on our property here at the plant and if youre a ele maint guy and get caught with them you get to go home for the day without pay. I support that policy as Ive personally spent hours tracing down production line problems only to find a freakin scotch lock buried in a control panel that some idiot used. Scotch locks cost a friend of mine a toasted engine in his GN due to the previous owner splicing the fuel pump feed wire using a scotch lock which failed and the engine leaned out at WOT/20psi of boost. He couldnt get out of it quick enough and it detonated the bottom end out of it.
      GMC Syclone (currently wrecked thanks to the typical rubber headed VA driver not paying attention to his red stop light...oh and he didnt have insurance either)
      #614 11.9 @ 113
      New stuff finished 08/06:
      4L80E trans w/TCI PCM
      Front: J&S UCA/LCA, QA1 coil overs
      Rear: Caltracks/Belltech drop leaves
      Empire drive line alum drive shaft
      Polished 17x9 F/17x11 R ZR1s with 275s/315s
      Syclone
      Tow rig

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm getting the message. But what the hell is a scotch lock?

      jp
      John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Nov 2004
      Location
      Roanoke, VA
      Posts
      515
      Quote Originally Posted by parsonsj
      I'm getting the message. But what the hell is a scotch lock?

      jp
      I could prolly google and find a pic but Im feeling lazy... Basically a plastic clam shell fitted with sharp contacts that is clamped over wire(s) that are being spliced. When closed the contacts cut through the insulation into the conductor. Prolly the most unreliable/worthless do dad ever invented other than the electric turbo charger
      GMC Syclone (currently wrecked thanks to the typical rubber headed VA driver not paying attention to his red stop light...oh and he didnt have insurance either)
      #614 11.9 @ 113
      New stuff finished 08/06:
      4L80E trans w/TCI PCM
      Front: J&S UCA/LCA, QA1 coil overs
      Rear: Caltracks/Belltech drop leaves
      Empire drive line alum drive shaft
      Polished 17x9 F/17x11 R ZR1s with 275s/315s
      Syclone
      Tow rig

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Nov 2004
      Location
      Roanoke, VA
      Posts
      515
      Heres a PDF link to 3M's site (they make scotch loks) since I had some free time between work orders here at the plant. They are "officially" called insulation displacement connectors and page 2 shows them being used.

      http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediaw...oooVIW&JsB7_X-

      Stay away from them....far far away or you will resemble at a later date when electrical issues arrise.
      GMC Syclone (currently wrecked thanks to the typical rubber headed VA driver not paying attention to his red stop light...oh and he didnt have insurance either)
      #614 11.9 @ 113
      New stuff finished 08/06:
      4L80E trans w/TCI PCM
      Front: J&S UCA/LCA, QA1 coil overs
      Rear: Caltracks/Belltech drop leaves
      Empire drive line alum drive shaft
      Polished 17x9 F/17x11 R ZR1s with 275s/315s
      Syclone
      Tow rig

    11. #31
      dennis68 Guest
      Stay the hell away from scotch locks at all costs. I wouldn't use one if it was just temporary to get home. You are better off just twisting wires and using some electrical tape.

    12. #32
      Join Date
      May 2005
      Posts
      136
      I just put a new hitch on my truck, and while under there, the previous owner, scotch locked ever wire on the 7-pin harness for the trailer connector in order to run a connector into the bed for a GN trailer. Well I saw that and I cut every wire and resoldered each one. Where the scotch was, each wire was corroded! Oh also had to replace the break away on my trailer, and tore into the junction box, guess what I get to do after the move!

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