69 Camaro set-up

[devin]

Planning out a 69 camaro pro-touring project, will be 100% street driven. Gonna have a high hp (700-800) small block, aluminum heads, 18" wheels and tires (345/30/18 in the rear, not sure about fronts yet, still need some advice). If u need more info in order to give me proper advice or recommendations, just ask and i will provide it.

I want the absolute best handling possible!

Thanks a lot!

[Lowend]

For the absolute best handling money can buy I would check out
www.globalwest.net and get their entire Cat V package (front and rear).
in all of my years and various builds that is the most savage handling package I have found for the 1st gen.


BTW - a 345 won't even come close to fitting on that car unless you plan to deep-tub the rear

[TitoJones]

I have some questions-
What is your budget?
Do you want to re-use the factory frame?
Do you have welding/fabrication skills?
Do you want to be able to install the entire thing yourself? (No outside labor?)
Which is more important- Ride comfort or handling?
Those answers will help us get started on your 'ideal' setup for your F body.

Tyler

[devin]

For the absolute best handling money can buy I would check out
www.globalwest.net and get their entire Cat V package (front and rear).
in all of my years and various builds that is the most savage handling package I have found for the 1st gen.


BTW - a 345 won't even come close to fitting on that car unless you plan to deep-tub the rear

ok thanks for the advice. I know those tires wont fit under a stock camaro...it will get tubbed
Also, with the Cat V package, they include a brake package. Would u recommend using that brake package (rotors, calipers, pads etc) or use the Cat V package without the brake parts and go with a Baer or Wilwood or another type of aftermarket brake package?

[devin]

I have some questions-
What is your budget?
Do you want to re-use the factory frame?
Do you have welding/fabrication skills?
Do you want to be able to install the entire thing yourself? (No outside labor?)
Which is more important- Ride comfort or handling?
Those answers will help us get started on your 'ideal' setup for your F body.

Tyler

- No real budget.
- If not re-using the factory frame will greatly improve the handling over re-using the factory frame, i wont use it.
- i dont have welding/fabrication skills, all my friends so, most of which have shops, so labour costs are not a real concern.
- No, im just the brains and money behind the project. I will help out when i can, but my friends will be doing most of the work as they have the tools/skills.
- Handling is more important than ride.

[Lowend]

You cannot order the CatV front setup without the brake package, so it makes the decision pretty easy

[devin]

thanks for your help!

Any other ideas???

[Andrew McBride]

http://www.waynedue.com/

maybe this is the direction you want to go...

[baz67]

Devin it is you not u and please capitalize.

[Nutsy]

Another guy from Vancouver BC! Welcome to the board! I will be moving back to Vancouver this Thursday where I will be starting my Project 69 as well! Feel free to PM or email me with any questions!

Trevor

[baz67]

Lowend in on with the cat5 from GW. Have you done any research on a three link for the rear?

If you want the "best" handling you can you may want to reconsider the 345s. You will want to keep the car in balance. The widest you can fit in a first gen is 275 chassis. To do that you loose steering radius because you need to put steering stops to prevent the tires from hitting the frame and wheelhouse. A 255 for the front is more of a reality. Mean69 and CarlC have but 275s in the front and have shared their experience. To keep the chassis in balance you would want to have the same width tires on all four corners. However, a wider rear tire is common. Going with to wide a tire in the rear can cause understeer problems. A 40mm difference between the front and rear being a good compromise. A 60mm difference being the max. Have you used the search function because this has been discussed a few times before?

If you really want the "best" possible then a full tube chassis is you answer. That way you can design the front for wider tires to meet your stated 345s for the rear.

[Rybar]

Hey Devin, where you at? I'm in Burnaby.

[devin]

Currently, I’m in Surrey living at my parents place. I recently bought a unit in the Marquis Grande (Halifax and Gilmore) and am just waiting for it to be completed so I can move-in! They are saying May/June, so it shouldn’t be long.

[Rybar]

Currently, I’m in Surrey living at my parents place. I recently bought a unit in the Marquis Grande (Halifax and Gilmore) and am just waiting for it to be completed so I can move-in! They are saying May/June, so it shouldn’t be long.

I have a furniture business at Henning & Gilmore: www.mg-design.ca let me know if you need anything. Give me a shout if you want to talk Camaros.

[devin]

Ok great. Im gonna be starting my furniture shopping anytime now. I will be sure to stop in your place!

[Lowend]

Yeah - the 3-link systems can work well... but it is still a live axel and is only gonna be so good no matter what.
Carl Chicca's car crushed everyone at the Hotchkis track day running Cat V

[Mean 69]

but it is still a live axel and is only gonna be so good no matter what.

Care to substantiate that comment? As in, this specific car with a IRS, and an otherwise equally prepared stick axle only performed xxx seconds behind? Not so sure Boris Said, Paul Gentilozzi, Mike Davis, and the other uncountable T-A/GT1 guys would agree with that comment. Me either. But, I am always willing to learn, so if you have factual data, I'd really love to see it. Or watch it run.

Mark

[vanzuuk1]

I dont think one car being fast on a track day means he has the best car or setup , i have seen a datsun b210 routinely beat every other car at an autocross, including a handfull of eighties exotics. Just an observation.