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    Results 1 to 14 of 14
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jul 2001
      Location
      Detroit, Michigan
      Posts
      6,854
      Country Flag: United States

      Spraying metallics and pearls.

      Can any advice be given on spraying metallics and pearls? How does this differ from solid colors and base/clear systems. I am guessing pearls are a 3 stage system?



      What would change with the gun and process. I know that with solids it's hold the gun 6 to 8 inches from surface, overlap by half on next pass. Let flash the proper time, hit it again with the next coat. I know that 'Happy' mentioned spraying metallics in a different way. Different in what way? Does the gun still retain it's oval-shaped spray pattern. Any advice on gun settings?

      Thanks.
      1968 Pro-Touring Camaro LS1

      Project: Next Year
      - Start date; June '01
      - Completion; Sometime next year or the year after.....


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Posts
      168
      When I spray them, I do it just as you mentioned. I set my gun to its flattest fan, 50% overlap, and go for it. Only thing different that I have noticed is that it is much easyer to get intensified areas, being consistant with your speed, distance, and overlap is more criticle. Also you cant sand the base of pearls and metallics without respraying. I also over-reduce it just a little to help it flow. You may want to spray a test peice before jumping right into shooting the hood. Like I said it really isnt much different, so load up your gun, and shoot. Oh ya...most pearls are still just a base/clear, but there are some tri coats out there too, just depends on what you get. A chip book will tell you.


      Good luck!

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2003
      Location
      Maine
      Posts
      1,076

      trapin

      as gtome says, just go with it, ibut consistency is key, not to get it blotchy, stay away from tri coats etc, go with a base with metallic/pearl in it, 99% of cars out there are not 3 stage paint, there are some.
      i also lonce panel has 2-3 coat on it, thin it out some not much and mist over entire panel, or panels and it helps it flow and all come together,, evens things out , goodluck
      jake

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Feb 2003
      Location
      St. Louis, Missouri
      Posts
      988
      Country Flag: United States
      The most common problems with painting pearls and metallics are uneven disbursement
      of the flakes which causes tiger striping(when a hood, for example, is sprayed front to back in an overlapped fashion and the metallic shows a stripe in this overlapped area) or mottling(which is simply areas that have a heavily concentrated area of metallic) Everyone will have different techniques, I choose to over-reduce a bit, and pull the gun away from the surface futher than normal. I go in opposite directions with each coat. Once I feel I have enough paint on the car, with it still wet, I put in a "drop coat" of metallic, basically it's nothing more than a fog coat to better distribute the mettalics.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Apr 2004
      Location
      OKC, OK
      Posts
      3,739
      Country Flag: United States
      Everybody is right and each person will have a little different technique for painting. I over reduce slightly as well so I can apply as light and even coats as possible. The thinner the coat, the less likely of a run or blotchiness. However I narrow up my overlaps from 50% to 70% to help eliminate striping. HOK application manual gives real good instructions.

      Mike
      Mike Redpath
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    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jul 2002
      Location
      Muskegon, MI
      Posts
      4,494
      I just recently painted a friends car with paint that contained quite a bit of pearl and metal flake. On top of that he wanted House Of Color metal flake added to the clear coat too.
      Jake(68protouring454) really helped me a lot and guided me thru any help I needed. My best advice is DO NOT GET CHEAP PAINT. Long story short the guy bought the wrong paint. Didnt cover, so I made him buy some good PPG. Night and day difference.
      I have painted cars before but the pearl or metal flake really is a different world. The most important part to remember with metal flake is make sure you do NOT get any runs. Do many light coats with the base. Good luck and you will be happy with the results.
      I forgot to mention that I also spray in all differnet directions to avoid any of the tiger stripes mentioned above. Criss cross and just dont do the same exact motions over and over again.
      Jake's mist idea works really well too. He told me about that one and I really liked the results.
      Just wanted to thank Jake again for the e-mail help when I needed it.
      Adam_______Offical Car Name "ILLUSION"
      383 Stroker, Stock cast heads, T-56 tranny, 4.11 gears, 2002 T/A dash, 4th gen interior including seatbelts, power lumbar seats, 18" Budnik Wheels, Hydraboost, QA1 shocks, DC Controller, Power steering conversion, fuel cell, unique exhaust set up........
      ILLUSION Website-----------Old Website--------------My Car on Lateral-g.net----------- Need something designed?-AdFabDesign

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jul 2001
      Location
      Detroit, Michigan
      Posts
      6,854
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks guys. When you say 'go in different directions' are you talking about switching from a horizontal paint path to a vertical one on the doors, fenders, and quarters between coats? Or do you mean start the next coat in a different location? I don't have to worry about the hood, that'll be a solid color.
      1968 Pro-Touring Camaro LS1

      Project: Next Year
      - Start date; June '01
      - Completion; Sometime next year or the year after.....

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jul 2002
      Location
      Muskegon, MI
      Posts
      4,494
      When I say go in different directions I mean always keep the gun perpendicular to the car but instead of walking down the car and spraying the same lines do slight angles the next time.
      Example would be if your first pass was parallel to the ground from headlight to tail light then make your next pass start at the high point of the fender and end at the lower part of the rear quarter.
      If thats still confusing I could easily demonstrate on a DWG for you real quick. Let me know if you understand. EXAMPLE in next post.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jul 2002
      Location
      Muskegon, MI
      Posts
      4,494
      Here is the visual example. This is just what I do with metallics and pearls to make sure there is no way there will be the Tiger stripe effect. It works well for me.
      Adam_______Offical Car Name "ILLUSION"
      383 Stroker, Stock cast heads, T-56 tranny, 4.11 gears, 2002 T/A dash, 4th gen interior including seatbelts, power lumbar seats, 18" Budnik Wheels, Hydraboost, QA1 shocks, DC Controller, Power steering conversion, fuel cell, unique exhaust set up........
      ILLUSION Website-----------Old Website--------------My Car on Lateral-g.net----------- Need something designed?-AdFabDesign

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jul 2001
      Location
      Detroit, Michigan
      Posts
      6,854
      Country Flag: United States
      I understand now. Thanks for the visual, Adam.

      I will go lightly and mist on a number of coats, changing my paint paths as you've illustrated. In addition, I will thin out the base a touch more than the recommended amount. This was some great information. Thanks to all who answered.
      1968 Pro-Touring Camaro LS1

      Project: Next Year
      - Start date; June '01
      - Completion; Sometime next year or the year after.....

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2003
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      8,745
      Laying on metalics wet can leave stripes. With metalics I like to do coats in oppsite directions. For the final coat, I like a fast coat with the gun at a further distance, in 4 directions on each panel doing a "dry spray" crisscross coat that I do not touch before clear with a tack rag or anything else. Hitting the car dry in crisscrossing directions will not only set the metalics with no striping, but it will also stand the meatalics on edge for more razzle dazzle.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Posts
      168
      Very good advice here! I would also suggest if it looks as if you are getting lots of orange peel with the clear coat, put on a couple extra coats to compensate for the extra wet sanding you will be doing. That way you still end up with the correct amount of clear when your finished. I agree firmly with using good paint. When I painted the bug, a tangerine pearl, a guy came in and wanted the same color. He bought it in an Omni line and it doesnt come close to comparing to the DBU I used. We had them parked side by side 2 days ago, night and day difference.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Feb 2003
      Location
      St. Louis, Missouri
      Posts
      988
      Country Flag: United States
      Tips for spraying clear and clear orange peel deserves its own thread. :rolleyes5

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Nov 2003
      Location
      Maine
      Posts
      1,076

      good call

      jake




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