Why hydroboost? Why convert over?

[gort69]

If you want to stop NOW, use the hydroboost. If you want to "modulate" your brakes , go manual. While you're busy modulating, I'm already stopped.

Modulating w/hydroboost is just a matter of getting used to it. You will likely stop faster vs. manual. It creates more line pressure.

No offense intended - just my own experience.

[JRouche]

If you want to stop NOW, use the hydroboost. If you want to "modulate" your brakes , go manual. While you're busy modulating, I'm already stopped..

To be able to feel your brakes and modulate them is very important. Being able to feel the brakes and apply the force that is needed for the conditions at the moment is VERY important, in ALL driving conditions.

Pedal feel, or modulation doesnt mean the braking will be diminished or slow. Just that you have more control over the entire range of force applied. You still have the capabilities to give pull pressure at a moments notice. Its just nice to have the control to say when that large pressure is needed.

You really dont have a foot to stand on saying brake control and modulation is a worthless aspect of a braking system. And really. From your statement it is apparent you have not experienced much high speed braking and control. JR

[gort69]

I don't recall saying that modulation is a worthless aspect.

I did say that Hydroboost takes some getting used to. I've had zero problems w/modulation or feel. It feels "different" but to say better or worse is pretty subjective.

And you are correct - mine is a street car, not a racer.

[MuscleRodz]

9 out of 10 units we sell is either a clearance issue or vaccum issue. If your power booster works great, stay with it. If you prefer manual brakes, no problem.

Hydroboost is just like a vaccum booster in that it will mask brake fade. How many guys are driving their cars to 9/10ths? 1-2%?
Modulation works the same with whatever system you have, just a different feel. You can lock up manual brakes as well, just a little harder.

There is just as many reasons to convert as there is not too, you just need to decide which ones apply to you.

[rickpaw]

1) Eliminates need to run a vacuum pump on high performance engines.
2) Allows for power brakes in applications that prevent normal location of vacuum booster.
3) Allows for more consistent power assist.
4) Provides emergency power brakes if engine has failed.

Not owning a hydroboost system I have a stupid question. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I understand that a hydroboost works off of power steering pump, which in turns being turned by the engine. With that understanding, is the last statement in the above quote incorrect? With a stopped engine, no power steering pump = no hydroboost? Unless there is some residual pressure remains in the system after the engine has stopped.

[jknight16]

There is an accumulator on Hydroboost systems that will give you enough assist for one or two stops with the engine not running.

It's the small cylinder that's off to the side of the Hydro unit.

[a67]

Note that not all hydro boost units have the accumulator. So if you want the engine-off power assisted braking make sure that the HB unit you get has an accumulator.

And of course be sure to test that it actually holds pressure.

Bob.

[rickpaw]

Got it. Thanks

[67 goat]

I installed a hydraboost setup from HydraTech on my GTO and I absolutely love it. I had vacuum boosted brakes, but with my 236/242 duration cam, the vacuum booster was essentially useless. When the cam was stock, the vaccuum boost worked great. I have a factory disc conversion up front (from an early 70's A-body) with factory rear drums. I can't speak for others, but in my car, the modulation between the vacuum booster (with stock cam) and the hydraboost is very, very similar. Honestly, I think it's perfect. I can stop VERY hard, yet controlled, and with a bit more effort can lock the brakes if so desired......but again, I would certainly not say that they are too touchy. Tires are 285/40 rear and 245/45 front, Nitto 555s.

At some point, I will be updgrading my brakes to C5 fronts and LS1 rears.......will they be too touchy after that? We'll see, but I'm guessing they'll still be fine by me.

Thanks,
Jeff

[nullshine]

removed.

[gort69]

At some point, I will be updgrading my brakes to C5 fronts and LS1 rears.......will they be too touchy after that? We'll see, but I'm guessing they'll still be fine by me.

Thanks,
Jeff

I have Hydroboosted C5/LS1 on a Camaro, 275 rears and 245 fronts. Not touchy at all. Perfect, IMO.

[67 goat]

I have Hydroboosted C5/LS1 on a Camaro, 275 rears and 245 fronts. Not touchy at all. Perfect, IMO.

That's good to know. Thanks!

-Jeff

[RatTouring]

I was going this route, but decided to go manual with a bigger brake system - didn't want to add any more complexity and cost than needed. Was just going for simplicity with the brakes after living for so many years with a huge cam, 5lbs of vacuum...

[MonzaRacer]

My 78 C10 has hydraboost, as it was factory diesel. Was supposed to use standard d52 pads but I always put semi mets on like MKD52, and right no it has Performance Friction pads and is very useable and I am able to modulate very easily and it has large rear brakes and when car trailer was behind it it never had problem stopping as its electric brakes need rewired(i hate scotch locks).
If your brakes are properly adjusted with an adjustable prop valve then you wont have any issues, period.

[130fe]

I have Hydroboosted C5/LS1 on a Camaro, 275 rears and 245 fronts. Not touchy at all. Perfect, IMO.

Al, what size bore MC are you running? What kind of prop valve do you have?

[gort69]

Al, what size bore MC are you running? What kind of prop valve do you have?

Chris -

The MC is a standard 1 1/8" disc/drum. It was brand new when I switched to hydroboost. Paul @ Hydratech said to keep it and not to worry abt the RPV on the back side.

I have the factory distribution block with an SSBC adjustable valve to the rears. (after the block)