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    Results 21 to 28 of 28
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Hobbs New Mexico
      Posts
      28
      Millermatic 140! i think all you change is the tip-according to size of wire ect

      Motownchevy427


    2. #22
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      the dirty mitten
      Posts
      1,217
      Country Flag: United States
      Rite, all you have to change is the tip itself. Takes maybe 30 seconds if that. You use the .023 wire for thinner stuff and turn your energy setting down. The .030 and up is for thicker stuff that you can put more heat into with out worrying about it warping
      Steve
      1968 Dodge Charger All Wheel Drive project Red Bull<script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/5cce6da5/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/85dc54c0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/85dc54c0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Jan 2009
      Posts
      197
      If this is the case then why do they sell different liners for .023 and .030 wire?

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Richfield, Wisconsin
      Posts
      79
      Country Flag: United States
      I've never seen a different liner based on wire diameter...Drive rolls and contact tips should be the only difference. However, if for some reason they are offering different liners...I would say get the larger one... JMO
      Steve R.
      68 Camaro

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      I have to wonder if .007" of slop will make any difference in the feeding quality....but we use Bernard here at work with really large wire compared to what you are talking about, so we don't change the liners unless drastically changing the wire size. Anyway, I figured that I would link to their page so you can read it and you can decide what you need to do for your situation.

      http://www.bernardwelds.com/articles/article22.htm
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    6. #26
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Posts
      3

      the cheaper route

      As a cheap SOB, I decided to get online and look at other alternatives to an expensive miller or lincoln machine from my local welding shops. I found that there are many off brand machines out there although if they do not come with a good warranty, it would not be worth the low price. I found a company called Longevity welding on the net that sells very low cost units for the poor people like myself. I bought from them after reading some reviews from a couple of forums including pirate 4x4 and welding web, ETC, but I was also able to get on there own forum (www.freeweldingforum.com) where I was able to talk to some of the customers direct about the equipment, and determine how well the equipment would work out. The MIG welder that I purchased cost me $850.00 shipped to my door. the M200 is a 200amp MIG welder with a built in wire feeder and a multi use stick welder as well. this machine runs off IGBT technology which is also used by miller and lincoln. better warranty at a better price, if your cheap like me, check out the machine here:

      http://www.longevity-inc.com/product...-M200-IGBT.php

      glad to be of inexpensive service.
      Last edited by waynedang; 01-27-2010 at 02:11 PM. Reason: sounded stupid

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      When scoping out the cheap machines....make sure that you can find a good supply of the consumable parts that you will need for just the wear and tear items.....tips, diffusers, nozzles, liners, guns, whips, drive wheels/rollers, ect....if you can't find these parts when they wear out, then I would say that you didn't get such a good bargin on the cheap machine.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    8. #28
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Katy, TX
      Posts
      32
      Country Flag: United States
      Another thing about buying a brand name is resale, I have been shopping around for a used miller 180 and have found that I might as well buy a new unit. These welders do not seem to drop in price.
      As far as the miller auto-set, from what I have read it works great. I am saving for this unit which is a little smaller but I have a nice miller stick unit which works great on anything thicker.

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