Project Nightmare- 1982 Monte Carlo SS (clone) build

[mc84_zz4]

Keep the pics flowing! we like pics...
I'd like to see how much you have left between the inside of the rear wheels and the Nitto 275s.
And since you'd be taking pics of those wheels, take a few more of them on or off the car, they look bitchin.
I also like that they are made in USA.

[Samckitt]

Ummmmmm

Sorry, somehow I missed it above. Now I see it. Thanks for repeating it for us dummies.....

[montessaj]

Keep the pics flowing! we like pics...
I'd like to see how much you have left between the inside of the rear wheels and the Nitto 275s.
And since you'd be taking pics of those wheels, take a few more of them on or off the car, they look bitchin.
I also like that they are made in USA.

There are actually zero fitment problems with the wheels and tires in the rear aside from that 1/4" spacer on the passenger side. I don't know an exact measurement on the space between the tire and the frame rail, but I can fit my fingers up to the second knuckle between the tire and frame, and I don't have fat fingers or anything. The inner wheel housing causes no interference. I think the only problem I MAY run into is the outer lip, but it just looks super close, I may have just the top of the lip rolled up just a tad to get the sharp edge away from the tire. Sorry for the book, but I have done a lot of messing with those rear wheels to get them right.

SAM--- Its no biggie man I do the same thing lol.

As for pics.... Here are some more that I have loaded to Photobucket, there are probably at least 50 more.

Here is the front wheel with the cross drilled and slotted rotors. Excuse the water spots, it was actually raining in Texas.


I think this picture is probably with the hotchkis springs, that lowered the rear....nothing.



Just for fun, I wanted to see how big they looked under there.







Here are some fitment pictures.







This pic is also without my 2" drop springs.






First set of new tires I have ever purchased. In High school I always bought used tires, because they didn't usually last very long.



I like posting pics, so ask and you shall receive. I know you guys like pics, so that probably isn't a problem.

[Samckitt]

I like those wheels. I have Centerrline Stars 8" frt, 9.5" rear & I too have a spacer on one side because the rear isn't centered. I didn't have any problem with the rear tires rubbing on the inside or outside, UNTIL I lowered the rear. At that point it rubbed on the outside. I found someone locally that was renting out a fender lip roller. That thing worked great & now no more rubbing. I highly recommend that thing. I wish Centerline would make their wheels a little wider than 9.5" to 10, 10.5. Some day I want to put 315's out back.

Fender lip roller, be sure you use a heat gun on the paint & you won't have any problem with it cracking.:

[montessaj]

Scot, Thanks for the advice on the fender lip roller. I think I'll do the rolling before I have the car repainted...again. How much is the rear of yours lowered? I have seen your wheels and they fit that car perfectly.

BTW your car is one of the few that inspired me to go the pro-touring route. I really like your Monte's stance.

[Samckitt]

Scot, Thanks for the advice on the fender lip roller. I think I'll do the rolling before I have the car repainted...again. How much is the rear of yours lowered? I have seen your wheels and they fit that car perfectly.

A friend gave me some rear springs, and I cut a coil off, so i am not sure what the drop is, but I will measure through the centerline of the wheel to the fender & let you know the height.

BTW your car is one of the few that inspired me to go the pro-touring route. I really like your Monte's stance.

Thank you.

Recent pic after having the hood painted:


Wouldn't have been my choice of paint, but it was on it when I got it. Found the car with no motor or trans real cheap.

[Samckitt]

OK I measured it, it is 26.25" through the center of the wheel to the bottom of the wheel opening.

[montessaj]

Thanks for the measurement, I'll measure mine tomorrow and see about where mine is at. I like the new cowl hood painted without the scallops. Your car does look sharp.

[Samckitt]

I like it too without the scallops, scallops were just too much on the hood too. Thankfully the top of the fenders are the maroon color so I could do the hood a solid color. Thanks.

[jevonniespapi]

[QUOTE=montessaj;620830]You're in Killeen? We need to get together and go for a cruise when our rides are done! I know a guy that shortens driveshafts, when I get mine done I'll hook you up with the guys info.

Yeah, Killeen it is.

When you gonna post pics of the motor? Whats going on with the dash?

-Jay

[montessaj]

Jay, I will get up some pics of the motor as soon as it comes back from the machine shop. The dash is still in the works, I'm sure you know just how hard it is to find a good dash pad around here, so I had to fix some cracks in one I had shipped from Maine. It also will have Autometers under the radio in cups, and the later model SS trim. I'll get some pics up today when I get home from work.

[montessaj]

Jay, here are some pictures of the dash. They are the only ones I really have right now. One is of the floormat, but you can kind of see the bottom of the dash. I'll get more when I finish the dash up.





This picture is before teardown:

[Black Monte]

Your car looks great!Keep the updates comeing.
What are you useing to fix the cracks in the dash?

[ls6monte]

Looking good!

[montessaj]

Black Monte. I bought one of those cheap kits from Auto Zone to fix it. I didn't use the texture pads, just sanded the filler down and re-dyed with some oxblood dy from Mike's Montes. Its a perfect color match.

Thanks LS6monte.


I'm actually about to go in to the shop and work on it tonight, so more updates tomorrow.

[montessaj]

Update:

Alright guys I spent all of my weekend (sunday and monday) at the shop and got plenty done. I did run into some issues... The idler arm bolts up and barely clears the sway bar, but the boot is touching the sway bar. I don't know if thats really a big deal at all... I didn't think it was but thats why I'm here, to get help. So any thoughts on this?

On to the pictures... First off I'm going to post some of the older photos first I found these on my other camera and thought I'd share, a bit out of order but who doesn't like pics?

Spring Comparison Hotchkis vs. Old

Yes, the Hotchkis spring is upside down, and yes I put it in the car look that. Only because the tubular a-arms have a flat surface for the spring whereas the frame side has a pocket for the curly end...



General assembly pics.






That huge UMI sway bar gave me all sorts of fits with the threads in the frame pulling out. What a.........Nightmare............


Just because I love the rear wheels and tires.



Tie rods getting a nice coat of semi-gloss.


Old tie rods vs. New tie rods with UMI adjusters.


My Kirban front frame brace. It will be coupled with the F-41 jounce bars until Stage II of Nightmare where I will get the SC&C bar.


Set my Smoked taillights in to see how they looked, they have bubble wrap imprints on them from the nucklehead that wrapped them in bubble wrap right after painting them. Any ideas on how to get it off? Its just black paint/clear coat.


Had to tape the rotors off to paint the hub, and vented parts, because I forgot to do it before installing them.





Pulled the booster off to paint it and so I could get at the firewall a little better. Any ideas on what that yellow stuff is? Is it some kind of sealant?


Some of my old junk. I can't believe I let it get that bad.




Here is the idler arm problem I was talking about.

With the boot down, and touching the sway bar.




Boot pulled up, the idler arm does have some breathing room there. So my question is, does it matter if the idler arm boot touches the sway bar?



Thanks for checking the project out guys. Any help with my questions would be much appreciated. Looking forward to hearing some of your feedback!

[Jeffrotech]

1. IMHO, a tad lower after rolling the fender lip would look nice. Hopefully some other Monte guys will chime in on this. Dunno if taking a 1/2 coil out of the spring would be too much... or if a 1" drop spindle is available.

2. Tail lights: get some plastic lens polish. It's very mild, and you can polish it a very little at a time. If you see NO progress, then get some 3M hand glaze and buff it by hand. It'll come out.

3. That yellow stuff on the firewall? Seam sealer. You can sand/grind it down if it's sloppy - otherwise just paint over it.

4. Boot touching the sway bar? No problem. The boot probably won't even rotate much. You can dab a little grease on it, though.

Nice car. Keep up the good work. I've always liked them Montes!

[CruizinKev]

good progress! makes me want to work on my monte again: I hate cold winter..

[montessaj]

Jeff. Thank you SO much for your input. That helps alot with my questions. I'll try out the plastic lens polish on Sunday and see how it works.

[montessaj]

Thanks for the compliment Kev. I can only imagine how cold Germany is this time of year.