Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Results 1 to 9 of 9

    Hybrid View

    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      St Louis, MO
      Posts
      373
      Well, I spent an hour with the flap wheel. Tried to knock the surface rust off and here's where I'm at. Pics kinda suck b/c I'm using my iPhone has my camera. What should I use to fill in the pitting? How do I get the rust out of the pitting? Should I coat it with some POR-15?

      All your tips and comments are welcome. This is my first attempt at real body work so I'm figuring it out as I go and from here.



      These are the only spots that are rusted through, the rest of the panel is solid from what I've seen so far.




      The quarter after I got all the surface rust off this section.






      You can see where I stopped for the night. Have to give the wife some attention.




    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Denver
      Posts
      325
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm sure some experts will chime in here but I can't imagine any paint will stay adhered to that rust for any length of time. Pitting? means this is more than surface rust and will grow under any coating you put on it. Media blast ...........though I know it's more than you are looking to get into.
      David Beckstrom DVM

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
      Posts
      1,240
      Country Flag: United States
      Well?? Till its shiny.. I used 80 grit for the entire thing.





      But in your case I would not!! Sand it down till you are removing the old paint and rust but NO metal. You dont want to dish the panels. Just remove the stuff that is not metal to the surface of the metal. When you hit shiny metal STOP. Dont try to remove the pits or deep rust....

      Then its simple. I get your use, its a DD, not a show car. The best product that I have used for body panels and rust is Must for Rust. Google it and get a gallon. POR is great for frame work. But for body panels its too thick. It will be seen as a gloppy paint job when the final paint is applied.

      The must for rust converts the rust and doesnt add any thickness that will show up on the final paint job. And it converts it fast and perfectly. I use a scotch bright pad to apply it along with a spray bottle. Just rub it in, wipe off the excess and let it sit for a day.

      For deeper pits I like to use a wire brush, not a wire wheel, a hand brush, a soft one, fine wires so it will push the MFR into the pits. And make sure the body is clean of any grease or oil. Acid doesnt penetrate oil. An acetone wash of the panel before the acid treatment works best...

      After the use of MFR I just dry scrub the panel with a scotch bright pad to remove any loose particles. On heavy rust you may need to repeat...

      Wash with wax and grease remover and prime. I like epoxy primer.. Etching primer might sound good for the rust but the pits will hold some active acid and cause some real issues later. JR

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      St Louis, MO
      Posts
      373
      Thanks for the replies guys.


      Looking up Must for Rust now.





    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com