Installing electric fan need help

[H2Ogbodies]

No. Get a 12v junction block from any junkyard S-10 oe other similar GM vehicle and run an IGN lead wire from your fuse block to one side of it. Now you can use it for any IGN sourced turn on lead you need. It is not a good idea to tap into the 12v lead to your coil. The coil lead should remain an isolated circuit. It comes directly from the fuse panel 12V BATT buse bar and remains hot at all times.

[STROKED]

No. Get a 12v junction block from any junkyard S-10 oe other similar GM vehicle and run an IGN lead wire from your fuse block to one side of it. Now you can use it for any IGN sourced turn on lead you need. It is not a good idea to tap into the 12v lead to your coil. The coil lead should remain an isolated circuit. It comes directly from the fuse panel 12V BATT buse bar and remains hot at all times.

Thanks ill try run a different ignition source wire.

BTW: do you mean just the junction block with out the wiring or the whole wiring and the junction block?

[85GPLEf41]

I just finished up my rough wiring my dual fans using Echlin switch part number ech fs113 for my low speed. I installed it on the t-stat housing. Using my factory gauge it turns the fans on around 218 or so. the temp was cool and i didn't drive it because of the front rebuild. The fans stay on for about a 60-90 seconds. Is this ok? before this the temp needle wouldn't go past 1/4 on the dial.... I am using my factory t-stat.

[H2Ogbodies]

The factory gauge (if that's what you're reading) is almost surely a little off a little on the reading. Sounds like you are running a 220 on 205 off switch. I would look for a slightly lower on/off temp switch. On the junction block question, if you notice, they have a metal tab which has usually two 10-gauge wire leads factory crimped to one end of the tab. You can either carefully pry open the end and replace it with your own wiring or just splice into the existing wiring and run a lead to your fuse box to the IGN terminal. You can easily make your own metal "jumper" tab for the junction block. These can serve as IGN junctions or common 12v power lead junction as well.

[nullshine]

Well it's disappointing that switch is turning on a little late.

Where is the sending unit for your temp gauge plumbed in (intake manifold i'm guessing?)?

So to test the switch you fired it up from cold and let it idle until the fans came on?
Did the fans consistently come on at 218*?
How many times did you get the fans to turn on?

With the Echlin switch above the thermostat I'm wondering if it's getting enough exposure to the coolant to get a good measurement.
If it's a factory thermostat I think it should be a 195*, so it'll START opening at 195*. Maybe by the time the the thermostat is flowing enough coolant to heat the switch up, engine temps are already higher? If that were true it would turn on cooler the 2nd and 3rd time the fans come on, I think.
Just a guess.

Do you have an accurate thermometer? Maybe you could do a boil test on the switch to see exactly where it's turn on point is.

[85GPLEf41]

Well it's disappointing that switch is turning on a little late.

Where is the sending unit for your temp gauge plumbed in (intake manifold i'm guessing?)?

So to test the switch you fired it up from cold and let it idle until the fans came on?
Did the fans consistently come on at 218*?
How many times did you get the fans to turn on?

With the Echlin switch above the thermostat I'm wondering if it's getting enough exposure to the coolant to get a good measurement.
If it's a factory thermostat I think it should be a 195*, so it'll START opening at 195*. Maybe by the time the the thermostat is flowing enough coolant to heat the switch up, engine temps are already higher? If that were true it would turn on cooler the 2nd and 3rd time the fans come on, I think.
Just a guess.

Do you have an accurate thermometer? Maybe you could do a boil test on the switch to see exactly where it's turn on point is.

My temp guage sending unit is on the drivers side cylinder head. And i turned it on and let it idle and then would rev it up a couple times here and there for about 20-30 seconds. I got the fans to turn on 3 times before shutting it off. They turned on @ around 218 every single time. I am going to try to borrow a laser temp reader and see what the temp is exactly at the radiator. I don't have a thermometer though to test the switch.

[nullshine]

My temp guage sending unit is on the drivers side cylinder head. And i turned it on and let it idle and then would rev it up a couple times here and there for about 20-30 seconds. I got the fans to turn on 3 times before shutting it off. They turned on @ around 218 every single time.

Ok, nothing to do with the switch being in the thermostat housing then. (EDIT: In regards to coolant flow, that is, lol).

I am going to try to borrow a laser temp reader and see what the temp is exactly at the radiator. I don't have a thermometer though to test the switch.

Let us know how it goes.

[H2Ogbodies]

Okay, that solves it then-your reading on your gauge is taking into account the head coolant temp which is always going to be the highest-your fan switch is in the intake so you have a span of about 15-18 degrees (+/- 2-3 degrees @ sensor) for the temp to drop allowing the fan to kick on. If you want to use the gauge as a guide for when your fan kicks on, then find a thermostat housing with a threaded port in it to use for the fan switch and re-route your gauge sensor to your intake. For accurate readings between the two sensors, you should place them as close together as possible.

[STROKED]

Thanks for the help all, its slowly coming along. I bought a new coolant sensor for my fan switch im wondering if this works. Guy at auto zone told me its for a 82 Monte Carlo 305ci. I need the two wire that's what he recommended. Does it matter which wire goes to the sensor? Is one ground and one reference volt? I'm planning to use this with my fan controller.

[85GPLEf41]

If you want to use the gauge as a guide for when your fan kicks on, then find a thermostat housing with a threaded port in it to use for the fan switch and re-route your gauge sensor to your intake. For accurate readings between the two sensors, you should place them as close together as possible.

I already have the temp switch installed on the t-stat housing. My housing has two sensor holes on it. One for the vacuum temp switch and one forthe temp sensor for the CCC feedback computer. My CCC system isn't hooked up so i used one port for the temp switch. So i should install the temp gauge sensor on the intake as well for a more accurate reading?

[86_442_kID]

No. Get a 12v junction block from any junkyard S-10 oe other similar GM vehicle and run an IGN lead wire from your fuse block to one side of it. Now you can use it for any IGN sourced turn on lead you need. It is not a good idea to tap into the 12v lead to your coil. The coil lead should remain an isolated circuit. It comes directly from the fuse panel 12V BATT buse bar and remains hot at all times.

Hey H2OGbodies, I was looking on the gbodyparts.com and I saw that they sell dual fans with 2 hi/low relays. Could I use that set up on my cutlass?

[H2Ogbodies]

That kid at Autozone doesn't know what he is talking about-1982 Montes did not have a switch-that is a sensor. You need a 1-wire switch that allows a path to ground once the desired temp range is reached-thus completing the ground circuit @ the relay to kick the fan(s) on. I usually look in their Wells engine management book under "SWITCHES/SENSORS" and look for a single spade switch with the right temp range and then it comes down to what thread it is-ideally you want 1/2 NPT but usually you find 3/8 NPT or 16MM. O-Reilly's carries Borg/Warner electrical engine management-they are pretty extensive-try those guys. As a last resort, go to NAPA-they have their own line, Echlin.
As for the dual fan setup with relays...sigh, I know what you are thinking-man, pretty cheap and they fit great, right? Besides the fact that they do fit a standard gbody radiator nicely, that's the only good thing. The pancake style motor is low profile which means not a lot of motor windings which results in a high amp drawing fan with a crude blade pitch. Translation: it is okay imo to use on a stock motor, not a HO one. Or, if you've swapped to R134 AC, not a good fan choice either. A nice cooling system centers around proper shrouding and airflow...it's always better to have a high powered fan that is more than up to the task and then you can dial it in. If you start with a weak fan by design, you can't dial it up as easy if you need to. As always though, cost can be an issue and space even more so. I did a 377 in an S-10 truck and I tried like heck to get a Mark VIII fan to fit but ultimately I had to go with dual 11" Spal fans-then, I needed to trim the center shroud support to clear the water pump pulley on the serpentine system. Money wasn't the issue but space or lack thereof was. lol.

[STROKED]

H20gbodies - The controller im using came with a " temperature probe" (3/8" thread).

The 82 Monte Carlo sensor uses 1/2" thread (that's the only reason i was thinking of going with it on the intake), but i don't think this sensor will work because its for a gauge and be different voltage.

I'm going to run the probe that came with the controller into the water pump, by using a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter.

[STROKED]

Want to say thanks to everyone that helped get my electric fans to work.
I've set my adjustable controller to come on at 190F and turn off at 180F.

[H2Ogbodies]

Correct, that 82 Monte Carlo unit is a potentiometer mainly...the gauge reads temp based on resistance-this makes it a sensor-a switch is basically an open set of contacts which has preset close/open contacts which are designed to work in a specific temp range-thus acting as "switches" because they act as an engine block ground when closed-for this reason too you don't want to use any type of thread sealer on them. Use this feature as a ground activated trigger for a fan relay. Good to hear you have your fan issues sorted out.