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    Results 1 to 6 of 6
    1. #1
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Richmond VA
      Posts
      74

      Using Adj. Lower Control Arms to Set Pinion Angle?

      I have UMI adjustable lower rear control arms and have welded/boxed the upper arms on my 66 GTO. I need to raise the diff pinion angle up 1.5 degrees to match my new T56 transmission install. It seems most folks using adjustable upper arms to set the pinion angle, though I presume using adj. lowers would work just as well to this end, right? Are there other geometry complications at hand by shortening the lower arms a hair that I should be aware of in terms of strip traction or track/street handling? Thanks!

      66 GTO: The Palette...The paint: E-heads, 428/440CID, Headers by Ed & 3" x-pype, T56 6 speed trans, 12 bolt posi with 4.56's. 17" Rocket Racing Booster wheels and 245/45/17 and 255/45/17 Nitto555 tires. C5/LS1 disc brake setup, hydroboost, Jeep GC fast ratio steering box. 1.25"/1" sway bars, adj Umi tubular rear LCAs, SC&C adj F uppers with Howe BJ's, 1" Eibach lowering springs...

      68 LeGTO Convert: first car!
      70 Cutlass Rallye 350: 54K orig mile survivor!
      73 International Scout II on 33's: daily driver
      78 Trans Am WS6/W72 Bandit Edition 4spd: The one that got away :(


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2007
      Location
      Carlsbad, Ca
      Posts
      1,213
      Country Flag: United States
      no issues for the amount you need. the proper way would be to do a little of each (upper/lower) in opposite directions to keep the wheel centered, but the amount youre going to need wont make a difference.

      Tim
      Tim

      The WidowMaker: Garage Built 70 Chevelle

      Special Thanks To: Rushforth Wheels, MuscleRodz, Kore3 & SC&C

      Build Thread Link

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Posts
      277
      Problem with using adjustable lowers is that unless they are double ended, you can only adjust the arms by 1/2 turn increments. Double adjustable uppers are the bomb as you can adjust in fractional increments to get the axle where you want it. I ended up with both for my 66 GTO as my axle did not sit in the frame straight and i had to tilt the rear end up to get the right pinion angle. Also, when you adjust in the lowers, it will pull the axle more forward in the center of the wheel well and could mess up the drive shaft length. Good luck!

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
      Posts
      1,240
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Socrates View Post
      I need to raise the diff pinion angle up 1.5 degrees to match my new T56 transmission install. It seems most folks using adjustable upper arms to set the pinion angle, though I presume using adj. lowers would work just as well to this end, right? Are there other geometry complications
      Might sound kinda silly but thats the main reason I went with a parallel 4-link, so I could dial in the pinion angle when the time came. I didnt have a set ride height or drive train for that matter. So I needed some adjustability in the end.

      Im not sure how much you will need to shorten the lower arms to get the correct pinion angle. But if its not much I dont see too much of an issue. You will suck the tire forward a lil, might look a lil odd if its too much.

      For handling I dont see too much effect. You will get a sharper pinion angle change with suspension travel due to the shorter arm. Are they level with the road surface? Or pointed up or down now? All depends on how much you need to shorten the arms and if they are level. JR

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Dec 2007
      Location
      Carlsbad, Ca
      Posts
      1,213
      Country Flag: United States
      if i did my math correct, you need to move the lca mounting pt .25" forward which will move the axle centerline .125" forward. not enough to be worried about. 4 turns on a 3/4-16 single adjustable and 2 turns on a double.
      Tim

      The WidowMaker: Garage Built 70 Chevelle

      Special Thanks To: Rushforth Wheels, MuscleRodz, Kore3 & SC&C

      Build Thread Link

    6. #6
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Richmond VA
      Posts
      74
      You guys rock! Thanks for working the math out, WidowMaker, that gives me a great place to start.

      old66tiger, thanks for the driveshaft info. I'll be sure to get the angle figured out before ordering the custom driveshaft.

      JRouche, the lower are is pretty close to parallel as it sits now. Shortening the arm may actually help make it more level and I think should also push the instant center farther forward.
      66 GTO: The Palette...The paint: E-heads, 428/440CID, Headers by Ed & 3" x-pype, T56 6 speed trans, 12 bolt posi with 4.56's. 17" Rocket Racing Booster wheels and 245/45/17 and 255/45/17 Nitto555 tires. C5/LS1 disc brake setup, hydroboost, Jeep GC fast ratio steering box. 1.25"/1" sway bars, adj Umi tubular rear LCAs, SC&C adj F uppers with Howe BJ's, 1" Eibach lowering springs...

      68 LeGTO Convert: first car!
      70 Cutlass Rallye 350: 54K orig mile survivor!
      73 International Scout II on 33's: daily driver
      78 Trans Am WS6/W72 Bandit Edition 4spd: The one that got away :(




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