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    Thread: 67 c10 no fire!

    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Location
      Durham,NC
      Posts
      664
      Country Flag: United States

      67 c10 no fire!

      I have a friend with a 67 c10 with a straight 6 and it is not getting fire. I know it has new battery,coil,plugs,wires,cap,rotor and points. I am not sure how many wires go to the + on the coil ( he has 2 on it) and 1 wire going to - side of coil that comes from the Dist. I am not sure what is going on maybe points set incorrectly ( but wouldn't I still have some spark?) or wiring? So can anyone help me out?????? Brandon



    2. #2
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Location
      Centennial, CO
      Posts
      402
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      Just a total shot in the drk but had the same problem after I rebuilt my small block and it was a bad (brand new) coil. It could be something else but thats what mine was. Good Luck!!

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Henderson,NV
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      2,870
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      Set the points with a feeler gauge first. Did it run before all the changes?
      Todd

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Location
      Durham,NC
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      he said it ran before parking but always seem to be weak so he put some new parts on it and now it is not firing so i figured i would try to help him out but i only know 90 and up cars it seems, never messed with points. Brandon

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Location
      Durham,NC
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      he has 2 wires on postive side coil that correct by chance?

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Henderson,NV
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      I don't know but points are pretty finicky. I hated the points distributor I had on my 68 back in the mid nineties. You need to get them close for it to run. There should be a resistor in the wire to the coil.
      Todd

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Dec 2000
      Location
      NE Florida
      Posts
      2,483

      points

      A. Make sure you've got an honest 12vdc going to your ignition
      AA. Make sure the egine is still grounded properly. I always like to run at least two ground straps the the engine.
      B. Get a matchbook cover & set the points to that depth (it's a good start & usually gets the dwell to within a few degrees of factory). That dizzy should be single-points, so it's real easy to set.
      C. Check the condenser; is it also new?
      D. Like Matt said, check the coil feed wire for resistance...if somebody bypassed it or clipped it out, that'll smoke a new or old coil very quickly.
      E. Check the coil primary & secondary windings

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      Sunny Florida on the Suncoast
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      1,060
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      The positive side of the coil may very well have two wires attached. One will be the resistance wire from the bulkhead connector at the firewall, the second one comes up from the started solenoid's R terminal for a 12 volt boost in start. Check the gap on the points or hook a dwell meter up to it to see if the points are doing there job. The next stop would be the coil.
      Stay in it till you see God....then lift

      Where patience fails, force prevails

      "When you're born, you get a ticket to the freak show. When you're born in America, you get a front-row seat." G. Carlin

      Stapp's Ironical Paradox...... "The universal aptitude for ineptitude makes any human accomplishment an incredible miracle."

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Location
      Durham,NC
      Posts
      664
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      ok got it to crank and dgot nice spark!!! he had the black wire that goes to - side of the coil grounding it self inside the dist housing. Now to figure out timing and carb, will not idel and choke has to be closed to crank it up but will not stay running long or idel on it's on. Thanks for help so far guys!!!

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Houston, TX
      Posts
      232
      Check your timing at idle it may be too retarded.




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