Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Results 1 to 18 of 18
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413

      I need some input from the experts here..

      Panhard mount..
      My question is is this strong enough as is or should I add another brace from sliderbox towards center of the axle tube via another clamp... This is awfly strong now with 3/4 bolts on clamp and trailing arm and 1/2 bolt in tab..

      Here is the Axle side mount. It is bolted in two spots onto the trailingarm mount and then secured to the axle via a tube clamp





      This one is showing the triangulation. Altho it is minimal its all I could get.



      Thanks and I hope to hear from some builders...

      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2007
      Location
      Carlsbad, Ca
      Posts
      1,213
      Country Flag: United States
      im not an expert, but i would be slightly concerned about not having enough triangulation. if your welds are sound its not going to break, but i would think that you'll have some deflection. nothing worse than running a centering device that still allows some side to side migration. i may be wrong since i dont remember seeing anything on the fays watts axle clamps.

      do you have any more pics that show the whole picture? maybe we can come up with a way to get you a little more.
      Tim

      The WidowMaker: Garage Built 70 Chevelle

      Special Thanks To: Rushforth Wheels, MuscleRodz, Kore3 & SC&C

      Build Thread Link

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Posts
      1,027
      as you know the phb see's most of its forces side to side. i would highly suggest adding more triangulation, more so of a 45º brace off axle down to slider box.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      will get pics in the AM of it installed. It date night and my wife would kill me if she knew I was checking the internet when I could be.... Well goodnight,..lol
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
      Posts
      1,240
      Country Flag: United States
      Interesting bracket. Id love to see it in place to see what some of the items are used for. Like the lower bar and eye? Whats that eye for? Does it connect to the trailing arm mount?

      And the hole thats on the bar? What does it do? And the tab that is on that bar? What does it do?

      Just looking at the side view it looks like it is strong enough. Cept for the hole on the bar, a weak point maybe? Dont know what that hole is for.

      Love to see it hooked up to get a clear picture. Your welds look solid enough!! JR

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413


      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Posts
      1,027
      the weakest point is where tube clamp side comes and meets straight bar off lower shock point. i would want more triangulation. where is your shock going?

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Dec 2007
      Location
      Carlsbad, Ca
      Posts
      1,213
      Country Flag: United States
      how long is the bar now? how long if mounted inboard of the shock? have you calculated the migration of the two arcs through useable travel. i would guess (without getting out my calculator) its somewhere btwn .062 and .125. if so i think you will have more deflection than that with the current mount.
      Tim

      The WidowMaker: Garage Built 70 Chevelle

      Special Thanks To: Rushforth Wheels, MuscleRodz, Kore3 & SC&C

      Build Thread Link

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      Quote Originally Posted by The WidowMaker View Post
      how long is the bar now? how long if mounted inboard of the shock? have you calculated the migration of the two arcs through useable travel. i would guess (without getting out my calculator) its somewhere btwn .062 and .125. if so i think you will have more deflection than that with the current mount.
      Sorry not following your post. bar is 41" mount and trailing arm built overkill style. Not sure what 2 arcs you mean. just cant put 2 and 2 together on this.. Please elaborate more so my feeble mind and understand..
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jul 2009
      Location
      Bear, DE
      Posts
      346
      Very nice, i'm definitely taking notes for when i build mine!

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Dec 2007
      Location
      Carlsbad, Ca
      Posts
      1,213
      Country Flag: United States
      as you know, the longer the phb, the less lateral migration you will get through the bars arc (put your arm straight out, and then straight up, its the same length, but its horizontal length is completely different). before i got your number of 41, i calculated the migration of a 30" and 40" bar at 3" of bump and droop travel and there was ~.040 difference. so that means that if you had the room to move the mount inboard of the shock and trianglulate it, you would have less migration than if you left it on the outside and let it deflect. that is my opinion of course. maybe others will chime in.

      Tim
      Tim

      The WidowMaker: Garage Built 70 Chevelle

      Special Thanks To: Rushforth Wheels, MuscleRodz, Kore3 & SC&C

      Build Thread Link

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      Ok I got ya. Id like to keep it where it is because I did design it to use the longest bar possible for the reasons you stated. I have an aditional peice to my design but was unsure of its nessesity. I will get a pic up once installed( Im going to the garage now).
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      Here is the extra brace its just hot tacked for now.

      I know it isnt straight on triagulation but it is a strong tube and all together I think should be strong enough but what say the experts..

      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
      Posts
      1,240
      Country Flag: United States
      Ok lowbuck. I think you have it nailed down. You have a nice long PHB, GREAT!! And with that last tie rod in there you took care of the side loading issues on the bracket. I think you nailed it buddy!!!

      One thing I would do is buy some extra long bolts for the PHB eye so the eye is not riding on the bolt threads. Look for a bolt with the grip length that will put the grip section just past the outside of the bracket and a washer will allow the nut to fully engage threads while fully torqued. Then cut off all the extra threads and throw them in the trash. Bevel the cut end for a nice start.

      I think you built a SOLID PHB mount. Nice work. JR

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      You and your bolts....LOL Good Idea.
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
      Posts
      1,240
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by LowBuckX View Post
      You and your bolts....LOL Good Idea.
      Hahahaha!! I know huh? I kinda keep on talking about it. You got me nailed. And really, I personally have not had or heard or any fastener failures. Even using a bolt in shear on the threads. And its prolly WAY over the top to deal with getting the grip length in the shear portion of the joint. But, the cost for a longer bolt that you can trim to get more grip surface in the shear of the joint is small. Maybe a buck or so.

      But yer right, I do tend to get anal on some stupid crap LOL

      But besides all that. I think you covered all the stress points on the bracket. Hard weld it up and lets see some pics with it all together. Liking the build!! JR

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      one step ahead of ya..

      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592




    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com