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    Results 1 to 5 of 5
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Dec 2007
      Location
      Carlsbad, Ca
      Posts
      1,213
      Country Flag: United States

      What Did You Do For A Custom Exhaust?

      i have too many parts modified to run a stock style exhaust on the chevelle. i need to fab up a custom exhaust system composed of 3" to the muffler and 2.5" tail pipes. its a must to run the exhaust out in the stock location and to have it out of 304 stainless.

      so what have you guys done?

      buy a builders kit? i dont see them in a 3/2.5" combo????
      buy a bunch of bends? single bends or combo bends?
      where did you get them? ive been looking at summit for the pypes stuff

      i've looked into a few different options....

      first was to buy a pypes "X" pipe kit for the 3" section. but, im going to have to buy some straight tubing to make it work, and im not a fan of all the extra joints and slip fittings that get added. the back would be composed of various bends to get it out the back.

      the other option is to just buy all the bends and fab it up completely, including the x pipe. but this adds more time, although i wouldnt be limited by the kit that i get sent.

      also, pypes has either the bends by themselves, or combo bends with either a 180/30 or 90/45 all in one piece. its a little cheaper to get my bends that way, but im afraid that once cut apart, there wont be enough tubing leading up to the bend to make it all flow.

      any opinions from guys that have done full custom jobs?

      thanks, Tim

      Tim

      The WidowMaker: Garage Built 70 Chevelle

      Special Thanks To: Rushforth Wheels, MuscleRodz, Kore3 & SC&C

      Build Thread Link


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      So Cal
      Posts
      920
      I built my own 3" exhaust back in the early '90s before any of the aftermarket 3" systems were available.

      http://forums.performanceyears.com/f...=516251&page=3

      I bought a dozen 304 stainless 90 degree mandrel bends and some straight tubing, then jacked the mufflers up into position and went at it. I had the car up on four 6-ton jackstands in my garage.

      It was a lot of work, and looking back there are a few things I would have done differently. Overall I'm pretty happy with the system and the way it looks and sounds.

      If I had to do it now I'd buy a 3" Pypes X-crossover to start off and a set of 2-1/2" tailpipes. I'm doing something similar to this on my '64 Tempest/LS3 engine swap project.
      Bart F.


      '64 Tempest - LS3/4L70E - Grandma's Poor-Touring car
      '64 GTO - 455 HO/TH400 - Ex-bracket racer, street bruiser
      '02 WS6 convert - LS1/4L60E - Pure stock, pure pleasure

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Dec 2007
      Location
      Carlsbad, Ca
      Posts
      1,213
      Country Flag: United States
      i was thinking the pypes x was a good start, and i could just cut the slip fittings off for butt welds and a cleaner look if there was enough material.

      right now its the watts thats friggin killing me. its a VERY tight fit out the back, but ill do what i have to in order to make it work. if it wasnt sitting soooo low, i wouldnt have the issue with the watts. i may have to slightly oval a piece where it goes over and around one of the links. i have a little less than 2.5" at full compression, so either i limit the bump, notch the tube, or oval it.

      Tim
      Tim

      The WidowMaker: Garage Built 70 Chevelle

      Special Thanks To: Rushforth Wheels, MuscleRodz, Kore3 & SC&C

      Build Thread Link

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Sep 2002
      Location
      So. Cal
      Posts
      1,179
      Quote Originally Posted by The WidowMaker View Post
      i was thinking the pypes x was a good start, and i could just cut the slip fittings off for butt welds and a cleaner look if there was enough material.

      right now its the watts thats friggin killing me. its a VERY tight fit out the back, but ill do what i have to in order to make it work. if it wasnt sitting soooo low, i wouldnt have the issue with the watts. i may have to slightly oval a piece where it goes over and around one of the links. i have a little less than 2.5" at full compression, so either i limit the bump, notch the tube, or oval it.

      Tim
      I've run the exhaust below the rear end before on a 93 Mustang. worked well.

      Right before the rear end, install flanges so it acts as a catback system for easy removal in case you need to drop the rearend. No doubt its tight any way you slice it.
      Ron DeRaad
      68 Camaro RSx
      Darton Sleeved LS9 - 434ci (4.155x4.00)
      AFR LSX245 Heads (12:1cr)
      660hp/588tq

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Dec 2007
      Location
      Carlsbad, Ca
      Posts
      1,213
      Country Flag: United States
      i think i found a way around it. its still very tight, but its the most room i could give it with the new suspension. it'll be spring before i get to that project. i need to learn how to tig first, and my new dynasty has been sitting here for 6 months without being touched.
      Tim

      The WidowMaker: Garage Built 70 Chevelle

      Special Thanks To: Rushforth Wheels, MuscleRodz, Kore3 & SC&C

      Build Thread Link




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