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    Results 1 to 14 of 14
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Katy,TX
      Posts
      118

      Roll bar connection

      Anyone know who makes a similar connector? Thanks.







    2. #2
      Join Date
      May 2007
      Location
      Las Vegas
      Posts
      670
      Country Flag: United States

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Posts
      327
      We do! FYI the bolts should be alternated, one from the left side and one from the right. This increases the strength substantially. We are in process of making some of these right now for our build as well.
      PM me if you wish for me to offer you pricing.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Posts
      327
      I just checked out that Ballasitic website, they have it right with the alternating bolts, They have some really nice stuff .. and the price of 32.00 for those connections is crazy cheap...I would use there products no question..

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Katy,TX
      Posts
      118

      Roll bar connectors

      Thanks for the info.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jan 2009
      Location
      So-Cal
      Posts
      17
      Here is another option.

      http://www.camburg.com/fabparts.html

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      Out of the Burbs of Detroit to SoCal, then onto my ancestral homeland, the woods of Cascadia
      Posts
      1,753
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by SDS MACHINING View Post
      We do! FYI the bolts should be alternated, one from the left side and one from the right. This increases the strength substantially. We are in process of making some of these right now for our build as well.
      PM me if you wish for me to offer you pricing.

      Trying to understand this. If you'e using a proper bolt for the fitting, why would alternating add strength?
      Greg Fast
      (yes, the last name is spelled correctly)

      1970 Camaro RS Clone
      1984 el Camino
      1973 MGB vintage E/Prod race car
      (Soon to be an SCCA H/Prod limited prep)

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Twentyover View Post
      Trying to understand this. If you'e using a proper bolt for the fitting, why would alternating add strength?
      I think it is so that you have tension in the bolts from different directions instead of just one direction. I like to alternate bolts like that also for the warm and fuzzy that it gives me since I am not a mechanical engineer and don't know any better. I do the same thing with hose clamps....
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      These are designed for the bolts to be alternated...look at where the threads are placed....
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    10. #10
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      Out of the Burbs of Detroit to SoCal, then onto my ancestral homeland, the woods of Cascadia
      Posts
      1,753
      Country Flag: United States
      You'll have tension in the bolt as long as it is stretched. If the bolts are stretched in the same (parallel)direction. there should be no change in clamp force regardless of which end the head is pointing.

      The fact the ballistic does it does not answer my question, why do they do it? How does it 'increase the strength substantially'? I am a mechanical engineer, and while doing seat pull testing early in my career, did some study on threaded fasteners. I don't recall anything that supports SDS's claim. I'm not saying he's wrong, I'm saying explain it to me so it makes sense.
      Greg Fast
      (yes, the last name is spelled correctly)

      1970 Camaro RS Clone
      1984 el Camino
      1973 MGB vintage E/Prod race car
      (Soon to be an SCCA H/Prod limited prep)

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      30
      Correct me if I'm wrong -but most in most sanctioning wouldn't you fail tech with something like that on the cage? The rules books I have read require solid 1pc bars for nearly all of the cage.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Twentyover View Post
      The fact the ballistic does it does not answer my question, why do they do it? How does it 'increase the strength substantially'? I am a mechanical engineer, and while doing seat pull testing early in my career, did some study on threaded fasteners. I don't recall anything that supports SDS's claim. I'm not saying he's wrong, I'm saying explain it to me so it makes sense.
      Ballistic puts the threads in the opposing pieces so you would have to alternate the bolts or you would only get one bolt in....(point that I was trying to make with my 2nd post.)
      I feel like I understand high strength structural bolting "somewhat", having been exposed to it here at work and on my 25th year with the company I work for....I am with you and your thought process of stretching the bolt from either direction results in a equal clamping force within the joint....what about shear? ....looks like you still have the same amount of force required to shear the bolts, no matter which way they are facing, so I think that doesn't come in play either.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    13. #13
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Arizona
      Posts
      446

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Dayton, Ohio
      Posts
      443
      Country Flag: United States
      It looks like an engineering solution of a manufacturing decision. Because the parts have a step in them to help lock them together and wanting equal thread depth or thread engagement in each hole which translates to equal clamping force the solution is opposing fasteners (one hole threaded & one hole thru per part). Result being both halves are the same part (ease of manufacturing). That would be my educated guess. Also throw in there reduced part count - 2 machined parts & 2 bolts vs 2 machined parts, 2 bolts & 2 nuts - had they gone with 2 thru holes per part.
      Roger

      69 Mustang coupe, under construction
      2011 Mustang - DD
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ang-SuperCoupe

      Freedom Of Speed!







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