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    Results 1 to 9 of 9
    1. #1
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Location
      Iowa
      Posts
      12

      Hydratech booster which master?

      Recently installed new LSX engine in my 68 Camaro and found does not have enough vacuum to run my dual diaphram 7" booster. Looking at the Hydratech hydroboost but which master cylinder, thinking Wilwood. As many of you have experienced the snowball effect is going again, I was planning on doing some autocrossing with the car which is why it got the big cube LSX so now I'm thinking up upgrading the brakes again to handle the power (700fwhp) I am thinking of doing the Baer 14 Pro Plus front and rear and getting rid of my SSBC 12" front and 11" rear. I am running 18/20 wheels so I have a lot of room to fill anyway. The Hydratech website you need to know if it is a shallow or deep master and cant really find any info I need on Wilwood's website to tell me which
      1 1/8 master (per Baer) I need to run with which hydroboost. Any help would be great. Venders feel free to kick in, havent bought any parts yet and this is gonna hurt.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      68
      I bought the hydratech setup with the chrome upgrade from CPP, and it looks great, but the proportioning valve hanging below it is basically sitting on the inner fender well. I obviously didn't want that to happen so I went ahead and got the MPCV-1 that cpp sells that has the built in proportioning valve. it looks alot cleaner than the other. I've included a pic. I'm not sure if you can see in the pic whether it's sitting on the inner fenderwell, but you can get the idea of where it hits it at. I'm running the cpp big brake setup.

      00' WS6 Trans Am
      Incon TT.. now custom twin t-66's and A2W...
      http://media.putfile.com/twin-turbo-startup
      55' chevy Bel Air... 4 dr, but still a fun project!
      67' Camaro RS/SS clone... hers
      69' Camaro... another clone, FAST XFI, Procharger

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2003
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      8,745
      We can help you with all of it. But you might find you really do not need a booster at all. Those big ole brakes will work very well a a manual set up. Especially for autocross. I find it very difficult to push the accelerator through the floor one second and lay my toe on the brake pedal the next! where one second.

      Call me tomorrow and we can discuss all your brake options.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Henderson,NV
      Posts
      2,870
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ProdigyCustoms View Post
      We can help you with all of it. But you might find you really do not need a booster at all. Those big ole brakes will work very well a a manual set up. Especially for autocross. I find it very difficult to push the accelerator through the floor one second and lay my toe on the brake pedal the next! where one second.

      Call me tomorrow and we can discuss all your brake options.
      Disagree my friend. My manual wilwoods absolutely suck on the autocross. I'm going hydraboost for sure.......
      Todd

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Apr 2004
      Location
      OKC, OK
      Posts
      3,739
      Country Flag: United States
      Wilwood part number 260-8556, 1-1/8" bore if you want Wilwood. We have smoking deals on Baer brakes and can save you a few bucks on the hydroboost as well.
      Mike Redpath
      Musclerodz & Customz
      405-288-0189
      pro-touring parts specialists
      Musclerodz.com

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    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,773
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by anarchy99 View Post
      ...but the proportioning valve hanging below it is basically sitting on the inner fender well....I'm not sure if you can see in the pic whether it's sitting on the inner fenderwell, but you can get the idea of where it hits it at.
      I don't know why CPP hasn't addressed this issue yet since it's been a known issue for a long time on several applications, including the first and second generation F-bodies. The easy solution for those of you who are experiencing the same thing is to rotate the L-bracket that currently holds the combination valve and flip the valve to the bottom side of the bracket, directly underneath the MC. Bend some new little U-shaped hard line jumpers to go from the MC to the combi valve and you should be good to go. We've done this for a few of our local customers who ran into the same thing with their hydro-boost units from CPP and it turned out the way it should have been originally from CPP IMHO.

      Tobin
      KORE3
      It's what I does.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jul 2007
      Location
      Los Angeles, CA
      Posts
      1,303
      I used CPP's new MCPV-1 M/S nice looking piece with integrated Prop valve and max rear pressure adjustment


      http://www.classicperform.com/NewPro...V-1/MCPV-1.htm

      Here are a couple pics installed:


    8. #8
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Location
      Iowa
      Posts
      12

      Manual?

      What about going manual with this big of brakes, how is pedal feel and stopping power. I am getting quite a bit of private messages saying that with that much assist (hydroboost) and that big of brakes it will want to lock up really easy, anyone with similar setup and manual brakes?

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Henderson,NV
      Posts
      2,870
      Country Flag: United States
      Ya, me..... http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=MVI_4874.flv
      I'm having a hell of a time with my manual big brake wilwoods on the autocross. I am making a rear axle bearing change that I hope will tame the problem in the next 2 weeks. I really like the manual brakes on the Road Course and if I could achieve the same feel on the autocross then yes. I won't know until I run again with my new axles and bearings. On the street they are OK. I'm not blaming Wilwood here, but I will say it's much harder to get a manual setup to work properly in a harsh enviroment like an autocross.
      Todd




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