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Thread: Engine Hoist Too Short
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10-06-2009 #21
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The whole problem is it's a 1 ton crane. It only extends to 50.25". From the front, it comes up even shorter. From the front, it is about 1' too short, maybe more.
Charlie Knudsen
67 Camaro RS/SS 350
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10-06-2009 #22
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I'm wrong....mines a 2 ton picker....
Todd
10-06-2009 #23
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1/4T(fully extended) is 500# and that is pushing it even for a SBC. I'd try to exchange that one for the larger 2T hoist as you are planning to do. I've lifted the motor and trans together with my 2T, and that makes it alot easier to snag and drag the motor out.
Last edited by John Wright; 10-06-2009 at 05:24 AM. Reason: added pic
1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454
10-08-2009 #24
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A trick I learned from gravel driveways was to push the car back as you lift with a floor jack under the tail shaft to keep it off of the ground and by the time you push the car back far enough the engine and trans are high enough to not need the floor jack and you can push the car out of the way. The car rolls easier than hoist even on a smooth hard surface.
Be safe and do not lift the engine from the side because the geometry of the way it has to come out won't allow it with the engine and trans together bacause you can't roll the car back and you can't move the hoist back. You have to go from the front.
You definately will like the bigger hoist as the small ones can cost you a lot when the whole thing falls over.
When using a new hoist or a used one, make sure you lift the load up and then wait to see if it has any bleed down. I had a hoist start to go down as the pan was at the radiator support. Did you know that a stock GM radiator support can actually support an engine and trans. I pumped like heck to get it back up and shove back in the hole as it was the easiest since I could pull the car back as I pumped.
Leave the load safely to go back down and wait and see.
Have fun and be safe .Last edited by Jim Nilsen; 10-08-2009 at 10:22 AM.
10-09-2009 #25
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I am getting ready to put the motor back in the car. I replaced the rear main seal, oil pan gasket and head gaskets. I hope I got the rear main in correctly. I am not sure if the guy before me had it in correctly because it has leaked ever since I got it. The seal has a side that has these hash marks on it. I installed it so those hash marks face the flywheel. The other side of the seal has a large groove that runs the circumfrence of the seal. I installed the seal so that large groove faces the harmonic damper.
Charlie Knudsen
67 Camaro RS/SS 350
10-09-2009 #26
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From your description it sounds like you got it in right. This is the way it's supposed to go in or it will leak like a big dog. Oviously the orange paint is the back of the block and the lip of the seal is pointing towards the front of the engine.
Originally Posted by 67Camaro RS/SS 350
Last edited by TonyHuntimer; 10-09-2009 at 10:30 PM.
@Camaro.Family Camaros
1967 #QuickChangeCamaro - SpeedTech Suspension LS1/T56
1967 #CFBee - SpeedTech Suspension SuperCharged LS3/T56
1969 #TaxReturnCamaro Art Morrison Suspension 496/T56
1986 #IROCdaily - Stock IROC
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