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    1. #1
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Posts
      155

      Unisteer R&P in First Gen with LS1?

      I have had soooooooo many issues trying to get everything to fit and work properly. It is in with several modifications but I am getting binding no matter what I do. The u joints are out of phase. I am using the Big block kit to clear my headers. Is there anyone out there that has got this kit to work without binding? This is my most regrettable purchase. I wish I could go back in time and buy a replacement steering box...... Do my angles look bad?






    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      5,101
      Country Flag: United States
      that sucks, sorry to hear that. I know that unisteer sucks when it comes to mustangs and falcons. horrible bump steer and increased turning radius and hard to clear headers.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jul 2009
      Location
      LBC
      Posts
      112
      Quote Originally Posted by falcon65 View Post
      that sucks, sorry to hear that. I know that unisteer sucks when it comes to mustangs and falcons. horrible bump steer and increased turning radius and hard to clear headers.
      x2 for Novas. Call Unijunk and ask for a refund.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Posts
      155
      I bought the setup on ebay so I cant return it. I have so much money invested in this. 250$ for the BBC u joint kit, 30 for the steering adapter and $800 for the unisteer. I did this because I thought it would give me the best steering. I thought it was a bolt in kit but its not at all. Really bummed about the whole situation. One GOOD thing is my setup does have a great turning radius. Just binds all the time. Maybe since Unisteer is a sponsor they could help me out. I am located in Phoenix in case there is anyone that could help me out. I am sure once all the binding is gone it will work great. I hope....

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      I can see your DD shaft protruding into the joint at the column end. MAke sure its not protruding at the rack end which will contact the joint causing bind.....


      BTW why is it not a bolt in? Cutting a shaft to fit isnt that complicated.
      Also you are using it in a situation that it wasnt designed around.(LS MOTOR)....


      One thing Ive seen many people talk about is the bump steer issue. But NO ONE has provided testing or numbers just "I heards" and They say"s. Ive followed NOGOs problem on another site and well what ever. http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums...ad.php?t=75784
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    6. #6
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Posts
      155
      That shaft is protruding but not hitting anything. I switch shafts around trying to get a better angle. The prob is the middle u joint. I can see were it is binding and I cannot get a better angle because of the header. The only way this is going to work is to cut my header and re-route that pipe....

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      Like I said the Unisteer unit was not designed around a car with an LS engine. And with you confirming that the unit is binding on an LS sepecific part The Rack nor the shaft system can be to blame..

      Ive not been one to step up and defend his company in the past but I see problems like this be blamed on venders parts When in reality it is a compounding of problems stemming from using parts from multiple venders and mashing it all together to try and come up with a perfect union of parts. It doesnt always work this way... Sometimes you have to ding up those nice headers for them to fit.


      Personaly I dont like how close that tube is to the pinion housing. There are seals down there that can be damaged from heat. Also grease and rubber seals on the joints itself.
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      St George Utah
      Posts
      1,243
      Country Flag: United States
      i also agree the problems start with using a Whole bunch of parts that have never been used together,
      We spent ALOT of time working through the problems of headers, shafts etc when we were doing the subframe. the system we came up with uses a 2 joint shaft and there are no issues, but you have to use the headers as well. ( i realize this doesn't help you )
      We have told Unisteer about the set up we came up with that works with our sub and also the factory sub. what they do with the information and how they sell the product is up to them, i think it waould be in their best interest to pass it allong?? but i don't work for unisteer. We have sent all the vendors the info. Stainless works builds the headers for us. so they know about it. the notchieness of the steering shaft can be worked out buy changing the phasing a bit at a time, try and get them to a total of 90 so 33 deg each.
      the rack works well when you get is set up correctly!!

      good luck getting it worked out.
      Blake Foster
      www.speedtechperformance.com
      435-628-4300
      St. George Utah.
      it's always sunny here.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      st. paul mn.
      Posts
      438
      i think i might see your problem. the u joints are out of phase the coupling joint in the middle is the prob. you need to turn one of the joints 90 deg. or the joints will fight each other.u joint on a driveshaft are the same way.wish i was a little more computer savy to link up some picts. I think this is the prob.hope this helps:bsjerk:

    10. #10
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Posts
      155
      YEp the middle u joint binds very very easily. I will try to phase it differently. I will cut the header pipe and re route if necessary. I will try 33 degrees each.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Posts
      155
      Killer 69 could you post some pics of your working setup?

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      St George Utah
      Posts
      1,243
      Country Flag: United States
      i will post som pics of the BBC install tomorrow from work
      Blake Foster
      www.speedtechperformance.com
      435-628-4300
      St. George Utah.
      it's always sunny here.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      St George Utah
      Posts
      1,243
      Country Flag: United States

      here is a pic of "Evade with an LS with our headers on it
      Blake Foster
      www.speedtechperformance.com
      435-628-4300
      St. George Utah.
      it's always sunny here.

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      Stainless works is just up the street from Unisteer they should work together on that. Thats a Killer Pic ...UUUHHHMMM KIller...lol
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      St George Utah
      Posts
      1,243
      Country Flag: United States
      These headers are exclusive to Speed Tech and trust me they are both aware but that is where it stops.. so that is where we come in, and i know Larry doesn't like me posting about selling stuff on here. but it is the only answer to solve this problem that i know of so more than selling it is problem solving
      Blake Foster
      www.speedtechperformance.com
      435-628-4300
      St. George Utah.
      it's always sunny here.

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      St George Utah
      Posts
      1,243
      Country Flag: United States
      here is the pic of the driver side fitment with a BBC
      Blake Foster
      www.speedtechperformance.com
      435-628-4300
      St. George Utah.
      it's always sunny here.

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Jul 2007
      Location
      sweden
      Posts
      32

      could you please

      blake could you show a pic of the enginemount on that frame to??
      sorry for hijacking the thread
      camaro69-l92 with 6l80e considering mast ho cam 530hp - speedtech(LCA)-ats Street-Comp AFX-unisteer r&p - VariShock coilover QuickSet2-Hydratech Brake Booster - 5gen rear suspension
      movit brakes 380mm 6piston front-465mm 4piston rear - 275/30-19 front-325/25-20 rear 19x9f 20x12r cray scorpions

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      St George Utah
      Posts
      1,243
      Country Flag: United States
      this is the mount on a BBC in our subframe it a real close up hope this is what you wanted to see.
      Blake Foster
      www.speedtechperformance.com
      435-628-4300
      St. George Utah.
      it's always sunny here.

    19. #19
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Posts
      155
      I wonder if it is possible for my 3 joint setup to work without binding....

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      St George Utah
      Posts
      1,243
      Country Flag: United States
      the black camaro in my avatar has a SBC and a rack with a 3 joint shaft. and it works. we did have to move 1 header tube to make it better but if you play with it mostly the phasing and where the idler bearing sits.
      Blake Foster
      www.speedtechperformance.com
      435-628-4300
      St. George Utah.
      it's always sunny here.

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