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    Results 1 to 11 of 11
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      Phoenix, AZ
      Posts
      826

      Mark VIII Fan w/ DC Controller Not Working

      Hey guys, I'm nearing the end of my latest round of upgrades and have run into a snag with the Mark VIII fan and DC Controller.

      I have checked the electrical connections and it appears everything is hooked up properly. With the key in accessory position, engine not running, I have a small signal voltage of .003 volts on the positive output side of the controller. 12.8 volts on the positive input side, and 12.3 volts on the yellow ignition wire. Grounds are good.



      Should the fan run at all with the key in the accessory position, or should it run at all before the engine has gotten up to full temp?

      Help!!
      Jeff K.
      69 Camaro SS, 406 SBC, TKO600, 9" w/3.73 tru-trac, Speedtech Arms, AFX Spindles, Lee 670 Box, Baer GT front, C5Z rear. Hyperco Leafs w/ Fays2 Watts Link + Varishocks.


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Hamilton, NJ
      Posts
      4,316
      Country Flag: United States
      With a DCC the fan will not run until the sensor gets hot enough. But if you jump the blue wire it will run ~1/2 speed.
      Scott from NJ.

      Vent Windows Forever! ...

      Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold
      I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      Erie, PA
      Posts
      349
      Country Flag: United States
      I assume you bought a used fan?

      First thing to do would have been to test it with a battery charger and see if it runs at all...

      http://www.popularhotrodding.com/hot...nte_carlo.html
      Andreas
      President First Gen Monte Carlo Club
      www.fgmcc.com

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      Phoenix, AZ
      Posts
      826
      well, i made up some wires to try to run the fan direct off the battery (Edit the fan did run, so it appears the fan is ok.

      What kind of voltage are you supposed to see on the output side of the controller with the engine running and up to temp?

      thanks guys.
      Jeff K.
      69 Camaro SS, 406 SBC, TKO600, 9" w/3.73 tru-trac, Speedtech Arms, AFX Spindles, Lee 670 Box, Baer GT front, C5Z rear. Hyperco Leafs w/ Fays2 Watts Link + Varishocks.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Patterson, NY
      Posts
      784
      You will see battery voltage as the output from the controller. It doesn't matter what the temp, unless it's low enough that the controller is not driving the fan at all.
      The control works by modulating pulse width, so it keep switching between full power and off, but really fast. The longer it is "on" versus "off" the faster the fan is driven.

      Obviously the fan is your problem. You are correct that it really pulls when it's got power to it. Be careful, because it can have a little kick, and you don't want anything gettting caught in the blades.

      There is a jumper for the control that makes it run at 10% minimum, if I remember correctly.
      As the temperature increases the control is supposed to increase it's "on" time.

      I'd make sure you have a good ground for the fan and try running it directly again, just to test it.
      Then, when you are sure the fan is working and the wiring is correct, try hooking it up to the control again and seeing if that works.
      Jason Scheer

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Rockford Illinois
      Posts
      3,949
      Country Flag: United States
      my mark viii fan would outdo my 110 volt 20" floor fan hooked up to my battery charger. I actually used it for a few nights instead of the floor fan to cool my garage. those fans really have a kick when started unbolted down so as was said be careful.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      Phoenix, AZ
      Posts
      826
      I edited the post above because I tested the fan and it is working properly. It now appears the controller is my problem.

      I'm only seeing .003 To .015 Volts on the positive output from the controller with the engine running and up to temp 180. It pulses up and down in that range, which seems appropriate, but the magnitude is obviously well below that of battery voltage.

      I'm out of things to try myself. I'll email Brian and hope that I can get in contact with him. I wish this was the sort of thing where you could just order another one and have it overnighted, I need to have it running by Friday.
      Jeff K.
      69 Camaro SS, 406 SBC, TKO600, 9" w/3.73 tru-trac, Speedtech Arms, AFX Spindles, Lee 670 Box, Baer GT front, C5Z rear. Hyperco Leafs w/ Fays2 Watts Link + Varishocks.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      Phoenix, AZ
      Posts
      826
      I emailed Brian and he responded to my email inquiry in less than an hour. I thought this spoke very highly of his customer service and should be mentioned given that others have said he's difficult to get a hold of.

      On his advice, I'm going to try adding the Underdrive Jumper on Pins 13/14 and/or see if hooking up the blue a/c wire to 12v (I don't have A/C, but will hook it up for testing purposes) has any impact on the fan operation.
      Jeff K.
      69 Camaro SS, 406 SBC, TKO600, 9" w/3.73 tru-trac, Speedtech Arms, AFX Spindles, Lee 670 Box, Baer GT front, C5Z rear. Hyperco Leafs w/ Fays2 Watts Link + Varishocks.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Apr 2007
      Location
      Huntsville, Tx
      Posts
      481
      Country Flag: United States
      You might want to read this thread...https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=53216. Kevin is pretty sharp when it comes to wiring the Mark VIII fan. He has helped me a lot. I'm working on a relay set up similar to his and should have it completed by the end of the week when I get all my parts in.

      Sam
      69 Firebird convertible T/A pro-touring custom, Now LS1/T56 six speed, 3:42 Eaton posi, 18" Iforged wheels, 04 GTO interior.
      www.fquick.com/SamHatco
      Jack of all trades, master of none.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      Phoenix, AZ
      Posts
      826
      Brian was of great help through email and I was able to get the controller and fan working. While it was spelled out clearly on the instructions, I glazed over the fact that you have to have the Underdrive pully jumper installed in order to get the 10% fan output with the key on. Installing that jumper allowed me to see that the fan and controller were in fact functioning together.

      Now I just need to road test it to make sure the controller will ramp up appropriately, but I'm pretty confident it will.
      Jeff K.
      69 Camaro SS, 406 SBC, TKO600, 9" w/3.73 tru-trac, Speedtech Arms, AFX Spindles, Lee 670 Box, Baer GT front, C5Z rear. Hyperco Leafs w/ Fays2 Watts Link + Varishocks.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      north central Iowa
      Posts
      503
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by jknight16 View Post
      Brian was of great help through email and I was able to get the controller and fan working. While it was spelled out clearly on the instructions, I glazed over the fact that you have to have the Underdrive pully jumper installed in order to get the 10% fan output with the key on. Installing that jumper allowed me to see that the fan and controller were in fact functioning together.

      Now I just need to road test it to make sure the controller will ramp up appropriately, but I'm pretty confident it will.
      thats good to hear, i think you will be happy with your choice
      72 Nova SS, on the back burner for now.


      current cruiser: "The green machine"

      '70 Impala 4drht, 26K original miles, 2" drop springs and large swaybars, drives pretty good for a land yahct in the middle of an ls1 swap, but thinking about changing directions to a duramax diesel swap.




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