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03-30-2005 #21
I think your car will look good with splitters, rear wing, and diffusers (seriously). Kinda like LMP car with vintage Mustang body. You'll probably want them when you unleash 800hp at PR anyway. BTW, your car is far from jalopy. It's one of my favorite early Mustangs for sure, and the fact that you use your car like it's intended makes it even better!
I seem to recall reading something about deep hats causing some unwanted rotor deflection or cracking or something. But the info is probably outdated, as I'm pretty sure it was in either Donohue's or one of Caroll Smith's books. Both design and metallurgy have improved. FWIW, TA cars are just like yours - tall hats, monster Brembos, and rims with as much + offset with not much (if at all) caliper overhang. It's probably easier to design spindles that way (bearing/pin loading, spindle rigidity, etc), easier to change tires (centerlock nut more outboard), and perhaps there's slight advantage in brake cooling with the rotor being closer to ducting. EDITOops, never mind. Rotor will be in the same location for given rim and scrub radius.
Late model OE bearings are much different. The pin is a part of hub forging, and sealed bearings are pressed into the bearing housing, which bolt on to the knuckles. I'm sure you know all that. The pin is rather short - I think it works b/c rim offset is designed such that wheel centerline falls near the centerline of bearings. IMHO, using neutral offset rims with those bearings, like many Corvette transplants on street rods, is a big no-no. But then again, I've seen a late model S10 4x4 with negative offset rims getting pounded offroad w/o bearing failure so what the hell do I know? The advantage of this design is it accepts wider range of rims, I guess, as there's no pin snout to stick out (just registering boss). Possible disadvantage is heavier rotating mass since the pin rotates (though it's damn near the centroid), and you're stuck with steel hubs as opposed to aluminum. But then again, shallow hats are lighter too.
With either design, caliper mount usually ends up close to the main body of knuckle, if things are designed right. I guess these are just different ways to accomplish the same goal for the most part.
Now if you can get rims with +3" or more offset with good overhang clearance, you'll be able to use shallow SAI and still end up at very small scrub radius...But more than likely the improvement is nil, and wheel spokes sticking too far from tire sidewall would hinder aerodynamics rather badly and designing rigid A-arms with rim clearance would be a major bitch.
I wish I had unlimited money and resources to conduct extensive R&D...All this stuff really fires up my curiosity.
Now this is a good tech talk! Where are Mean69 and Norm when we need their perspectives?
Would you let me know when you go out to track next time? Shoot me a PM over at CC.com. I definetely would like to check out your car. I'll be in WA until summer.The first step of becoming a better driver is to attend a track event, time yourself, and realize the fact you really suck.
Signed,
A driver who laps Big Willow at 1:42.6 in a 134hp BMW - and I am still considered mediocre.
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03-30-2005 #22
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- Dec 2004
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Thanks for the education - I knew the Corvette style hubs bolted on but I didn't realize how different the construction was from what I did, and hadn't even considered all the engineering ramifications. Like I said before even if you understand this stuff it seems like there's always lots to learn. I did base the car a lot on TransAm style construction so that's probably how I ended up making the right decisions. I know one thing that Sierra Caliper I have is pretty damn wide. I"m thankful for everything I've learned but if I started over I'd just build a C5 based setup, I don't see where my design really gained me much in the end other than clearance for 12" wheels.
Car does have the small splitter already and rear diffuser. For now I leave the underengine and underaxle flat panel out for cooling and noise reasons when I need the extra lap time I'll start experimenting with it. At one time I was gonna do a front diffuser but without testing/CFD it would be pointless and I needed the real estate for the IC.
Splitter comes off easily so I could easily put something much bigger on for the track and I have hard points to support it with heim links on the bumper mounts.
I"m glad you mentioned the wing thought I've been really torn between just putting a big adjustable spoiler on it or a wing. If a wing it would be a real TransAm wing or some such. Just not sure if it would work on the vintage stang. Even a big spoiler would look really race car-ey - other option is just put on the standard Maier fiberglass trunk lid with small spoiler for aesthetics. Steel trunk lid weighs 30 lbs so the fiberglass lid is sort of on my list anwyay. Of course I would like an electric ram controlled spoiler so I could have an air brake !!
I guess I know the wing is much more efficient in the long run, probably best combined with the small Maier spoiler, but just worried about how it will look. I mean, it will look cool regardless, but I want it to match the styling of the car properly.
I'll try to let you know if I'm going out - thrashing to make the SCCA this Saturday at Bremerton not sure if I'll make it.
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03-30-2005 #23
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Hey now! I like the direction (er, hijack) that this thread is going!
You know, this is the biggest fear that I have in planning the "next" project. Making it too pretty, and too special to actually drive the poopy out of it. There's a gentleman doing a 65 Mustang with complete SN95 Cobra underpinnings, I think he's in the show car rut, which is not where he originally wanted to go. If I were John, I'd be very careful if I drove the car. Proud, but darned worried. Gee, John, time to build a sister car to beat on!!!John will sit along side in his lounge chair sipping a diet Sprite and telling everyone how it's so fast you could'nt reach a 100 dollar bill on the dash when he launches.
Regarding the front spindle, hub, caliper, rotor deal, I am about at wit's end. With the present car and donor parts (first gen Camaro, Alcon rotors, "reasonably" priced rotor hats/rotors, stock hub, and huge positive offset wheels), I can only say that a "proper" solution needs to be engineered. A "proper" solution is going to require a very specific set of design requirements up front (it's the ole' compromise thingie), it seems to be very vehicle specific.
It feels to me that satisfying the suspension geometry comes first, making it strong enough comes second (well, parallel with requirement #1, don't mean to belittle this, it is of primary concern), then making it light comes last. Obviously a compromise is needed, but if you aren't already buying the absolute lightest wheels you can buy, then saving a pound or two of unsprung weight through spindle weight loss, etc, is probably an expensive endeavor. I'd have to look at more examples of the caliper overhang, etc, deal you guys mentioned, interesting, but down on my list of "crap" right now. I just want to make it all fit, the Alcon's are HUGE. I'll try to steal some ideas at Cal Speedway this weekend (Rolex Grand Am Race, yippee!!!! Riley's, Crawford's, Doran's, Fabtech's, I'm so happy).
I can tell you that some of the noteworthy Trans Am guys use a "modified" stock car spindle setup. Fabricated, like Preston's, ~10 degree KAI, ~9" or so spindle height. Now, the F1 guys, well, some seem to be experimenting with Carbon Fiber. Heck, if they can make a gear case out of the stuff, why not spindles?!?! Gulp! I still feel really comfortable with Timken (tapered) bearings for the front hub pack.... Sorry for the lack of tech, I'm still learning!
John, don't paint the car. Build it all up, bolt it together, go have a ton of fun with it, then strip it down and paint it.
Mark
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03-30-2005 #24
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Upright Design Requirements and Compromise
Very informative posts Katz, Preston, and Mark. Thanks for showing me more of what I don't know

I will try to articulate the design process on the uprights. For any of you working in an engineering or product development environment this is nothing new, but we all bring something to the table so I will try to share some of what I know and what we learned.
JP or Brian feel free to correct me as I am fuzzy on some of the earlier work flow.
JP and Katz worked out the design requirements for the front suspension and then Katz derived the geometry. Once the suspension geometry was nailed down, Katz worked with John and Brian to model up a manufacturable upright.
At this point I became involved as John was rightfully concerned about the durability of a machined aluminum upright. At this time John was concurrently procuring a cast stainless steel upright that would be sufficiently overkill that he wouldn't have to worry about Finite Element analysis (FEA).
As I didn't have access to an FEA package at this time we turned the analysis task over to our buddy Glenn Estelle who was able to perform preliminary static analysis. Glenn's analysis revealed weak areas in the upright which called for minor design changes. Once the changes were incorporated into the model, additional conservative analysis cases were run followed up with cyclic analysis to determine the fatigue life of the billet AL part.
While forged aluminum would be ideal for this particular spindle design, the costs were well beyond the budget, this left cast stainless steel or the billet aluminum piece as options. By now John had received a pair of gorgeous cast stainless parts, but they were pretty heavy.
The results of very conservative analysis gave us confidence to run a machined Aluminum part, but with the understanding that the fatigue life would not allow unlimited mileage. The upright would be safe for tens of thousands of miles, not the hundreds of thousands you can expect from an OEM forged first gen part. Given the car would probably not see more than five thousand miles a year, this should not be a problem for years down the road.
If we had the opportunity to do it over, I think we could design a cast stainless part with the aid of FEA for a reasonable weight and essentially infinite fatigue life.
In addition to the suspension loads we were also concerned about the interface at the tapered ball joint and the bolted joint at the steering arm and hub.
Bolted joints are almost always neglected and generally people get away with murder in this area of design because they typically oversize the hell out of the fastener and are usually working with steel which is less compressive than AL. Given the dissimilar,materials we had to take a close looks at the fasteners involved and do some basic calculations to assure ourselves we had sufficient torque to properly stretch the fastener to provide adequate clamping force in the joint.
IIMuch should never see salt and very little rain, so corrosion should not be a big problem, but galvanic corrosion is still a possibility from the use of dissimilar metals, so appropriate protective coatings are still required.
Finally the improvements were worked into the solid model which was converted to a format Brian Schien could ultimately distill down to G codes to run his "state of the art" 3-axis maching center.
The amount of machine time would be drastically reduced if these uprights were made in a production environment, but then JP and Brian would not have enjoyed quality time in the garage freezing their nuts off together.
And for the record, I think paint chips rule.
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03-31-2005 #25
You pretty much got the time line right. The one major change was in the steering arms witch original only bolted to the front hub bolt and the outer flange. They were made to bolt to both hub bolts and the flange but then caused some hub interference.
I still have the stainless pieces in my garage unmachined the way around 17 pounds if my memory is correct. the AL pieces are less then 3.
I am confident that with a real CNC mill such as a haas or fadel you could make on of these upright in 3-5 hour range. My little Bridgeport CNC is well just slow it cant take much of a chip load with out throwing the head out of whack chattering like hell or stalling.
Brian
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03-31-2005 #26



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