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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Orlando, Fl
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      1,229
      Country Flag: United States

      Alignment specs - 2nd Gen F-body

      Should be a pretty simple question. Looking for some specs to shoot for with completely stock suspension.

      These are what I was thinking. I am curious if this can be achieved with stock suspension.

      Camber -0.5 degrees
      Caster 4.5 degrees
      Toe in 1/16"



      Thanks in advance!!!
      Nick
      Nick DiPrenda


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      St George Utah
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      1,243
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      caster might be a bit tough to get ,but other wise looks about right
      Blake Foster
      www.speedtechperformance.com
      435-628-4300
      St. George Utah.
      it's always sunny here.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Orlando, Fl
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      Quote Originally Posted by killer69 View Post
      caster might be a bit tough to get ,but other wise looks about right
      I was thinking to just tell them to max out the caster. What might be a more realistic number to shoot for???
      Nick DiPrenda

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Katy,TX
      Posts
      1,678
      It will be tough to get that much caster and have some negative camber, even using some longer bolts for more shims. The rear of the control arm starts getting close to the steering shaft as well. After market arms can get you there.

      With -1 camber 3 was about all we could get on + caster.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
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      Orlando, Fl
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      Quote Originally Posted by Skip Fix View Post
      It will be tough to get that much caster and have some negative camber, even using some longer bolts for more shims. The rear of the control arm starts getting close to the steering shaft as well. After market arms can get you there.

      With -1 camber 3 was about all we could get on + caster.
      Alright, I will feed all of this to the alignment shop. The aftermarket arms will not be coming for a bit. I need to collect some more parts before I get there. My coilover brackets will be arriving soon Then I need to decide which arms I will run. Thinking DSE at the moment.
      Nick DiPrenda

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      with Stock UCAs, I agree, you won't be able to get that much caster.

      I have the SC&C arms and they are an easy bolt on and you can get alot more caster without having the camber take off in the wrong direction on ya. There are other upper arms out there too, but I don't have any experience with the others.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    7. #7
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
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      1,240
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      Yeah, SPC adjustable uppers will get you that caster. JR


      Quote Originally Posted by John Wright View Post
      with Stock UCAs, I agree, you won't be able to get that much caster.

      I have the SC&C arms and they are an easy bolt on and you can get alot more caster without having the camber take off in the wrong direction on ya. There are other upper arms out there too, but I don't have any experience with the others.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Orlando, Fl
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      1,229
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      Trust me fellas. If I could throw new control arms on now, I would. I am taking a road trip for the first time since getting the new rolling stock and this alignment will definitely be best effort, not necessarily ideal. I have a set of one off coilover brackets coming for the front and hope to get new upper and lower control arms this winter. Then I will shoot for the stars.

      Question, should I shoot for -0.5 degree camber and a little more caster? Or -1 degrees camber and slightly less caster?
      Nick DiPrenda

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Katy,TX
      Posts
      1,678
      If ALOT of cornering 1 degree of camber can help your tire wear pattern and flatter for better traction. Otherwise go with 0.5 and as much caster as you can get.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
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      I wouldnt go more than .5* in static neg camber. And like he said, stuff as much caster in as you can. An aggressive caster gives your loaded tire in a turn some tip in at the top, more neg camber.

      So yer thinking yeah, freebie. Well not really, positive caster to a point is a good thing for the turns where your geometry just doesnt produce enough, or any camber gain. But as always, too much of a good thing can be bad.

      But with your suspension you cant really get into some heavy pos caster numbers so its kinda self limiting. So get what you can, keep the tires happy and stick with .5* of camber and you may be surprised at how well she handles.

      So at that point you feel the car, read the tires. And determine what is wrong, if anything. If the tire wear is good and you arent experiencing any erratic behavior then yer set to drive like it was fun.

      But if you do get some odd feelings with the way she handles then time to look at what its doing that you dont like and adjust the appropriate component.

      And Im talking about erratic behavior. Like she changes from understeer to oversteer erratically, or darts across the road unnervingly. Then its time to take a look. Not much fun and dangerous.

      But if its consistent, and thats the KEY. Consistent suspension behavior. Thats the holy grail.

      Cause a guy can drive a consistent but slower car faster and with more confidence and peace of mind than a guy thats always having to stay on top of his twitchy suspension.

      Yeah, hes a lil faster but he is having to really DRIVE the thing just to keep up with the constantly changing road surfaces. And besides being tiring and not much fun he will tend to eat the curb or loop it more than a slower suspension that is consistent. JMO. JR

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jul 2009
      Location
      Cal
      Posts
      49
      http://www.guldstrand.com/alignment.asp and zero toe is a good compromise if you ever plan on autocrossing or racing.




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