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    Results 1 to 9 of 9
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jul 2003
      Location
      Anaheim Hills, CA
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      11,967
      Country Flag: United States

      What temp is this LS thermostat?

      I found one site that said it's 212-degrees, but I want to confirm.

      The PN is 12581594 and it's refered to as a two piece unit (housing and t-stat).

      If it is 212 then I would like to drop down to a 180. Right now the car stays around 210ish at idle.

      "A ship in port is safe, but that's not what ships are built for."

      1968 Track Rat Camaro:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGHJ5c1yLIo&t=2s

      1971 Chevelle Wagon with a few mods:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBVPR3sRgyU


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Phoenix, AZ
      Posts
      46
      I think I remember seeing it was 187* one time. I'm not sure if that was for the one piece or the two piece, though. If you take into account the typical 15* difference between the rating and what the engine operates at, that seems pretty close to what they usually run at.

      A 180* couldn't really hurt anything IMO. It seem to be about ideal for an LS motor.

      There's not much point in going to a 160* in these motors as they like to run a bit hotter. I lost 1 mpg in my LS2 goat dropping to a 160* from stock, so efficiency was definitely down.

      If you have a late model stock computer, the fans can't be set to turn on at less than 196, so a 160 can't do much except when you're moving. A 180 is just right for that temp.
      1969 Olds 442 convertible; 455 th400 sable/gold
      2006 Pontiac GTO: cammed LS2 T56 blue/blue
      1968 Chevy Camaro coupe: cammed LS7 T56 C5 subframe DSE 4 link, etc. rallye green/parchment

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Posts
      2,624
      Country Flag: United States
      A few years ago I saw an article with a graph of engine wear rate vs. engine operating temp. As it dropped from 180 to 160° there was a significant difference. I have it stuck in my head that 170° is as low as I would ever go in terms of trading off power vs. durability.
      Red Forman: "The Mustang's front end is problematic; get yourself a Firebird."

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
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      Steve, do you have this thermo in your hand? Have you looked to see if it has a temp rating stamped on the backside down in the hole?
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jul 2003
      Location
      Anaheim Hills, CA
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      Quote Originally Posted by WS6 View Post
      Steve, do you have this thermo in your hand? Have you looked to see if it has a temp rating stamped on the backside down in the hole?
      Unfortunatly it's installed in the car.

      I just noticed that it idles at a higher temp now. Before I had a SBC t-stat (180-degree) in the elec pump and it idled at 180-190

      Now with the mech pump and this t-stat the idle is 210 or so. Part might be that the mech pump isn't as good at idle (ie, slower)
      "A ship in port is safe, but that's not what ships are built for."

      1968 Track Rat Camaro:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGHJ5c1yLIo&t=2s

      1971 Chevelle Wagon with a few mods:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBVPR3sRgyU

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jul 2003
      Location
      Anaheim Hills, CA
      Posts
      11,967
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68Formula View Post
      A few years ago I saw an article with a graph of engine wear rate vs. engine operating temp. As it dropped from 180 to 160° there was a significant difference. I have it stuck in my head that 170° is as low as I would ever go in terms of trading off power vs. durability.
      Yea, and LS engines typically make more power when they are warmer.

      That's why sucessive dyno pulls typically go up rather than down like a Gen 1 engine.
      "A ship in port is safe, but that's not what ships are built for."

      1968 Track Rat Camaro:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGHJ5c1yLIo&t=2s

      1971 Chevelle Wagon with a few mods:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBVPR3sRgyU

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Henderson,NV
      Posts
      2,870
      Country Flag: United States
      Grab your laser thermometer and shoot the t stat housing and you'll know exactly what temp the stat opens at.
      Todd

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      Out of the Burbs of Detroit to SoCal, then onto my ancestral homeland, the woods of Cascadia
      Posts
      1,753
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      Can I ask what the rationale is for not being satisfied with a 210 degree idle temp? With a pressurized cooling system and coolant,your boiling temp should be about 250 degrees.
      Greg Fast
      (yes, the last name is spelled correctly)

      1970 Camaro RS Clone
      1984 el Camino
      1973 MGB vintage E/Prod race car
      (Soon to be an SCCA H/Prod limited prep)

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
      Country Flag: United States
      Steve, stock LS2 thermos are either 83 or 86*C which translates to 190*F or close enough. You're running right where you should be with a stock water pump and thermo though. Putting in a 180* won't help much in this case. I'm assuming you have the fans turning on in the 180-190*F range. Why the switch back to mechanical from electric?
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins




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