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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      CT
      Posts
      782
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Phishfud View Post
      I loosened the allen screw to level the unit on the floor, and used the black knob to keep it in place. When I do this, the allen screw won't go back in. After re-leveling it again, it's now almost at 0(when attached to the wheel), and I haven't changed any shims at all. If I set it at factory 0, I am then at almost 2' on the car. I am trying to line up the center of the bubble with what reading I want correct?
      I tried the same thing when I first got mine. When the allen head bolt is screwed in the tool is a true 90 degrees. If you are not on a reasonably level area then make it level (you can use a 6ft level laserlevel ect. I like to use sections of lenolium floor to shim the car level. once you establisted the car is reasonably level then screw the allen head in all the way then put it on the tire. this will give you your true camber setting. If you think its not accurate of your still way off use a small cheap level (one with a vertical bubble) across the rim and see if it leaning in or out. I am fairly confident that you'll have a negative camber reading with the allen head all the way in.
      here is a quick and dirty on how I do my at home alignment (over 5k miles and not issues)

      (all needs to be done at ride height and full weight of car ie hood / fenders / engine ect

      1. use cardbord / lenolium or other low friction under tires to keep binding/friction to a minimum (and keep the car level)
      2. roll the car back and forth to get the suspension unloaded (not sure if really nessecary but I do it)
      3. Set you caster first (being mindful that you will need to add or take away shims so I start 2 shims in)
      4. Camber is easy just add or take away shims till your reading is on. (just rember to add and subtract from each adjuster so you are not changing your caster.
      5. recheck Caster (if you have a machine reading then you may not need to do this)
      6. Set Toe making sure your caster / Camber doens't change
      7. If "6" changes then just make minor adjustments.

      ________________
      Nick S.
      Gold/Gray 1967 Camaro


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      Pittsburgh, PA
      Posts
      59
      Well, the car is level side to side. I screwed in the allen bolt all the way, and it now reads about 1.5 positive. I checked the caster on that wheel (pass side) and came out at 4 pos, which is fine. If I got longer bolts I could get the camber right with more shims, but this doesn't seem right to me. Checked the wheel with a level as well, and it's definately still leaning out.
      78 TA, 400 4spd
      72 Chevelle, 454 4spd
      72 Demon
      72 Dart
      70 Dart
      70 Charger
      69 Roadrunner
      55 Chevy
      70 Duster
      68 GTO
      ...ain't projects fun?

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
      Posts
      1,240
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Phishfud View Post
      Well, the car is level side to side.
      Not just side to side but front to back also. Needs to be level (flat) with the earth if you are using a bubble gauge. Level surface and some turn plates are good too. JR




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