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    Results 1 to 14 of 14
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Netherlands
      Posts
      1,012

      Did you guys ever lose your shims under hard cornering?

      check this out!! needless to say i wil have them replaced with closed shims.

      Attached Images Attached Images  
      Last edited by parsonsj; 06-09-2009 at 04:41 AM.


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      Auburn, WA
      Posts
      1,360
      Must be from component deflection or bolt stretch, but UCAs don't really see that much force. Are you sure the cross shaft bolt was tightened to spec?
      Matt Jones
      Mechanical Engineer
      Art Morrison Enterprises

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Posts
      203
      You're using a nylock nut, right?
      Paul

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2007
      Location
      Florida
      Posts
      2,391
      Country Flag: United States
      It's probably the nuts David. Happened to me once. I found out the torque nuts do not like to be used more than once. Also had a similar thing happen with nylock nuts on shocks, they're designed as a single use fastener.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      new braunfels, tx
      Posts
      545
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Roadrage David View Post
      needless to say i wil have them replaced with closed shims.
      gotta link?

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Netherlands
      Posts
      1,012
      They are not nylon ., but tightend corecly and put on with locktite.
      I must say that i have been driven ecsesif high speeds that go behond the normal tracks as it is on the remote publich highways and long cornering dike,s deselerating very hard on brakes and (auto)trany to a poind that sometimes my rear 315 wheels lock just befor the corners, befor i trow the car in.

      left side is ok , but i seem to take left corners harder then right corners , so that might have something to do with it.
      Firstgenzq8 those will be stainles steel home made ones, i gues everybody can make them , but i strongly advise people to use them when you go behond regular track driving, iven if you have the right bolds the forces on that frond end tire in the corner is tremendes.
      Must say those 255 Nitto nt01 in the frond and there 315 nt555r in the rear is a absolute killer combo!! Grip wize!!.

      Chek picture and look at my pasenger side wheel might be more going on !!.I have replaced the lost chims with ordenary cut o rings and limp back to the safe haven where we wil chek stuf out properly..

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Sep 2002
      Location
      San Jose, CA
      Posts
      1,793
      I remember this happened to Mary Pozzi awhile back... She chalked it up to the chassis bracing putting extra stress/flex on the arm-towers.

      I believe she addressed the problem with a tie-wrap around the shims
      1971 Camaro, 383 stroker ~500HP,M21 Trans with lightened flywheel. All Sorts of Auto-x Goodness in the Suspension. 12" Brakes ->SOLD

      But ask me about my 2004 STi Auto-x car...

      Just call me Brett

    8. #8
      Join Date
      May 2005
      Location
      Fontana, CA
      Posts
      4,960
      Country Flag: United States
      If it was bolt stretch, you can upgrade from the 7/16" bolts to a 1/2" bolt. I had a buddy do it to his '70 Chevelle. That heavy boat would unload a rear stack of drivers side shims every 6 months or so it seemed. Not after we upgraded the bolts.
      Nick R.
      69 Camaro - 383, 700R4, 12 bolt 3.55, Hotchkis, Bilstein, Global West, Morris Classic
      08 HHR SS - Still Stock for now
      Do you still believe in all the things that you stood by before? Are you out there on the front lines, or at home keeping score?
      Do you care to be the layer of the bricks that seal your fate? Would you rather be the architect of what we might create?

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      Central California
      Posts
      2,050
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Lowend View Post
      I remember this happened to Mary Pozzi awhile back... She chalked it up to the chassis bracing putting extra stress/flex on the arm-towers.

      I believe she addressed the problem with a tie-wrap around the shims
      Yep, there's about ten of those little suckers spread throughout the "bypass" at Thunderhill Raceway ...

      Cheers,
      Mary Pozzi
      mpozzi . . . '73 Camaro RS, '69 Camaro SCCA/Trans-Am vintage racer, and a 1989 R7U 1LE Players Challenge car.

      "STICK, you B*TCH!!!!!!"

      "It's not a horse. You can't train it!! "


    10. #10
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Central CA USA
      Posts
      6,114
      Country Flag: United States
      Safety wire the shims in place if possible, use jam nuts over plain nuts if you have enough bolt length. Or check the nuts every track day before you go out. All it takes is for one shim to start shifting a little, once there is a little movement, the nut can back off and dump the shims on that end, when those are gone the A arm levers in and out and the other shims will soon depart.
      Last edited by David Pozzi; 06-12-2009 at 11:52 AM.
      67 Camaro RS that will be faster than anything Mary owns.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Ontario, Canada
      Posts
      2,314
      Country Flag: Canada
      Quote Originally Posted by 6'9"Witha69 View Post
      If it was bolt stretch, you can upgrade from the 7/16" bolts to a 1/2" bolt.
      Could splined axle studs be used?

      Ken
      If there is a hard way to do something, I'll find it!
      My other car is a Vega.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      IL/TN
      Posts
      908
      Country Flag: United States
      it also looks as though there is no washers behind the nut, use all steel loking nuts.
      Another thing to keep in mind is that with that many shims the center of the shaft is unsuported when heavy loads are placed on the ends the shaft can flex in the center this is why one piece shims are used on race cars.
      https://www.protouringf-body.com "doing what they say can't be done"

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Orlando, Fl
      Posts
      1,229
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 79T/Aman View Post
      it also looks as though there is no washers behind the nut, use all steel loking nuts.
      Another thing to keep in mind is that with that many shims the center of the shaft is unsuported when heavy loads are placed on the ends the shaft can flex in the center this is why one piece shims are used on race cars.

      Yup, and remember those distorted thread steel locking nuts are ONE TIME use only. If you loosen, you must replace them.
      Nick DiPrenda

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Posts
      345
      Quote Originally Posted by Kenova View Post
      Could splined axle studs be used?

      Ken

      That is what I used to replace the stock bolts. Can't recall what size they are but I did have to cut the length down a little.

      On this car the upper A arm has also been relocated (Guldstrand mod). I think (I should go look first) that I used some 1/4" thick steel squares that the studs where pressed into. Then tack welded to prevent turning or backing out.

      The squares were size so that they would fit into place but not rotate. This is to aid in tightening the nuts onto the bolts.

      a67




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