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    Results 1 to 5 of 5
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      LI New York
      Posts
      104

      Help me with my brake setup please..

      This is going to sound a little crazy,but... I'm building a twin turbo and planning for the future. I had a 11" booster then went to a dual dia 8" booster then to hydroboost for space. Had a problem with the hydroboost and now back to the 8" booster. I don't want to have the problems I had with the hydroboost again (got me stranded), Good thing because the headers I'm building won't work with the hydroboost anyway. I was thinking now about just a good manual disk master that will stop good. My current brakes are drum rear, 10lb residal valve in line. Disk single big piston 2 15/16" in front. I have a 1 1/8 master. As of now the brake rod is in the top (manual) hole. The car just wouldn't stop in the lower hole. I ended up shimming it there. I've been reading 1" - 7/8" bore masters, but I want it to stop good. What's your take on it?



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,773
      Country Flag: United States
      Given your front caliper piston area and the fact that you're running drums in the rear, I'd suggest a 1" bore master cylinder for your application. Pad selection becomes more critical with manual brakes as does your rear drum brake maintenance for maximum performance. You can get performance shoes for the rear to better match whatever you choose to run up front, but they're still going to be drums and as such, prone to fading when hot and slower recovery times.

      Most of the people here with small bore master cylinders (7/8"-15/16") are running much smaller piston areas with C4/C5/C6 based kits or aftermarket multi-piston calipers. Just because it has more pistons doesn't mean it has more area than the large single piston cast iron units. I wouldn't get too carried away looking at what other people are running unless you're going to compare apples to apples.

      Tobin
      KORE3
      It's what I does.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      LI New York
      Posts
      104
      The rear drums were totaly rebuilt with the 9" rear. I'm using a 10lb residual valve and new pads. What would be some good front pads?

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,773
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by mnm99 View Post
      The rear drums were totaly rebuilt with the 9" rear. I'm using a 10lb residual valve and new pads. What would be some good front pads?
      There are lots of good pads out there. We typically run Hawk HPS or HP+ on street cars with manual C5/C6 brakes if dust isn't a concern. Neither the HPS nor the HP+ are that bad IMO, but dust doesn't bother me too much...they're no where near as dusty as most of the track pads available and much better when cold.

      Pads are such a subjective thing since no two drivers are the same. Aside from your vehicle specifications, how and where you mostly drive, and your budget should all be taken into consideration when selecting pads. Some are more than happy with the cheapie local auto parts stores offering...others prefer something a little more exotic. For those of us who only drive our cars less than a couple thousand miles per year, performance usually trumps other consideration such as rotor wear, dust, pad life, etc.

      Tobin
      KORE3
      It's what I does.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      LI New York
      Posts
      104
      Thanks. I called Wilwood and Frank from Prodigy today. I think I'm going to try the 7/8 Master from wilwood. See how that works. If I don't like it or don't have enough pedal I'll prob go with the 12" setup from wilwood setup for manual brakes. I also have my Hydroboost for sale If anyone needs/Wants one.
      http://www.camaros.net/classifieds/s...?product=35163




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