Rotor differences C5 vs. C6?

[bochnak]

I thought these were physically the same? They are different part numbers.

I know the calipers are more rigid due to ribs on the C6.

Are the 2 rotors interchangeable?

Both should be 12.8" x 1.25THK?

[Apogee]

The C5/C6 rotors are interchangeable, but not the same parts. The C5 front and rear rotors have directional vanes, so there are four part numbers, one for each corner. The C6 base level rotors (325x32 and 305x26) are pillar vane and therefore non-directional, so there are only two part numbers. The C6 rotors also have what is referred to as a heat-dam design hat which allows for thermal expansion with less distortion when compared to the pie-plate shape of the C5 front rotors. The difference in the rears is less significant since they must accommodate the 190mm internal drum surface for the parking brake.

HTH,
Tobin
KORE3

[bochnak]

Thanks for that response.



Just trying to mock-up a rotor on my A-body drum hubs. I'll go with a cheapie for now.

[Apogee]

Matt, one thing to note since you're modifying your hubs is that due to the C6 rotor hat design, cut the flange to 5.94" outside diameter with a 1/8" x 45 degree chamfer on the face...then you should be good with any C5 or C6 rotor.

Tobin
KORE3

[bochnak]

Matt, one thing to note since you're modifying your hubs is that due to the C6 rotor hat design, cut the flange to 5.94" outside diameter with a 1/8" x 45 degree chamfer on the face...then you should be good with any C5 or C6 rotor.

Tobin
KORE3

Hey, I still remember the first time you told me..LOL:

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...826#post391826

What fit do you shoot for when drilling and reaming for studs?

For example, I have a 12mm stud w/ .489 body and .503 knurl. I have access to a .492 & .495 reamer. I was thinking the .492.

Thanks for sharing that info, and when the time comes, I'll be giving you a call for some brackets.

[Apogee]

I would start with the .492 reamer and then measure the hole afterward and see what it actually cut. Either reamer should work, but it's easier to take material off than put it back on. We usually shoot for .007 to .010 interference with steel hubs/axles and ARP studs, which have a fairly coarse knurl. For a finer knurl, I'd go towards the lower end of that range.

Tobin
KORE3

[bochnak]

I would start with the .492 reamer and then measure the hole afterward and see what it actually cut. Either reamer should work, but it's easier to take material off than put it back on. We usually shoot for .007 to .010 interference with steel hubs/axles and ARP studs, which have a fairly coarse knurl. For a finer knurl, I'd go towards the lower end of that range.

Tobin
KORE3

Tobin,

Thank you very much for sharing that info.

I’ll try .492 in a piece of scrap and press in a stud to see how it will work out.

[bochnak]

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...9&postcount=14