Succesful Steps In Building a A-Body Suspension

[BobB66SS]

If i dont go with the spindle route then how would i be able to throw the big brake system on there??
Is this when a "hub" comes into play???

No sweat, we've all been there. It sounds like either you're misinterpreting the definition of drop spindle or I missed something about what's on the car now. Let's back up. The part that bolts between the UCA and LCA and that the brakes mount to is the knuckle. The shaft that the bearings and wheel mounting hub slide onto is the spindle. Where that shaft is located on the knuckle is what defines whether it's a stock spindle or a drop spindle. A "2 inch drop spindle" is a knuckle that has the spindle located 2 inches higher than normal; by raising the centerline of the wheel 2", you effectively drop the rest of the car that same distance. Thus the term "drop spindle". Either style will accept a big brake package. Again, talk to the brake supplier of your choice; chances are they'll have both a stock height spindle and drop spindle as options.

If you decide to buy the spindle from a different source than the brakes, you will have to make sure the brakes will fit that spindle. That's why it's easier to get them all from one vendor.



You'll go thru the same thing again when you buy wheels and tires. That/those vendors will need to know your brake and suspension package to make sure the get the size and backspace right to clear the caliper, rotors, sway bar, etc. All of the good ones will know what questions they'll need answers to.

[1nkred1ble]

No sweat, we've all been there. It sounds like either you're misinterpreting the definition of drop spindle or I missed something about what's on the car now. Let's back up. The part that bolts between the UCA and LCA and that the brakes mount to is the knuckle. The shaft that the bearings and wheel mounting hub slide onto is the spindle. Where that shaft is located on the knuckle is what defines whether it's a stock spindle or a drop spindle. A "2 inch drop spindle" is a knuckle that has the spindle located 2 inches higher than normal; by raising the centerline of the wheel 2", you effectively drop the rest of the car that same distance. Thus the term "drop spindle". Either style will accept a big brake package. Again, talk to the brake supplier of your choice; chances are they'll have both a stock height spindle and drop spindle as options.

If you decide to buy the spindle from a different source than the brakes, you will have to make sure the brakes will fit that spindle. That's why it's easier to get them all from one vendor.

You'll go thru the same thing again when you buy wheels and tires. That/those vendors will need to know your brake and suspension package to make sure the get the size and backspace right to clear the caliper, rotors, sway bar, etc. All of the good ones will know what questions they'll need answers to.

Thank you, you just did a woorrllldddddddd of clearing things up for me. I guess I was a little bit confused by youre previous post, when you mentioned your coilover drop spindle setup. I thought you said that you WOULD NOT go with 2 inch drop spindles when using coilovers becuase it would mess up the geometry of your ride.

But now i understand that it is possible to use the drop sinples aslong as i get my spring rate where it needs to be from the manufacturer ( DSE)

Secondly, I currently have the stock 307 SBC in the car that im trying to get started, if im able to accomplish this i dont have to worry about dumping all sort of money in the 454 (that im planning on stroking out to a 496) i have in the garage that needs to be worked up. i.e Instead of spending 2 3 grand on the bb right now i can spend it on the suspension like i am planning to.
My question is with the coilover setup + the 2 inch drop spindle's would it give me enough defecit ( want a real low front end) to order bbc chevy springs on the coilovers because eventually i do plan on going with the bigger motor?
this is the stance i am shooting for.

[MrQuick]

If i dont go with the spindle route then how would i be able to throw the big brake system on there??
Is this when a "hub" comes into play???

sorry guys i know its frustrating to hear all these dumb questions

I'd go with the ATS spindle option and sell the Bell's. Bolt on C5-C6 compatible brakes.

Don't even worry about it. All these guys are more than willing to help as long as you can keep up.


vince

[1nkred1ble]

i tried looking up prices for that belltech spindle you bought, but i cant seem to find them on the site, how much are the spindles for a 70 chevelle?

[1nkred1ble]

Thanks guys once again seriously I never would've even thought about half of the things that you guys mentioned.

Gathering from you guys have said, i have come up with wish list i that i want to run by you guys

DSE front Coilovers (i know you suggested otherwise but i like the fact that adjustability is a option)

Dse Rear Coilovers

Global West Rear Tubular upper and lower Control Arms

& Ats 2 inch drop spindles.

I got lost with all the bracket and mount talk, but whichever you guys suggest i will end getting.

[BobB66SS]

Dse Rear Coilovers

Global West Rear Tubular upper and lower Control Arms

When in mocked up my DSE rr coilover kit I still had the older style Hotchkis boxed lower arms on the car. I found out that that style/size of arm interfered with the bracket DSE provides for the lower coilover mount. Make sure you check the GW arms to see if they're like the DSE ones I eventually installed; that style eliminates the interference. I'm not familiar with the GW stuff, chances are if they're tubular you should be OK. DSE will be able to tel you for sure.

[6'9"Witha69]

Couple things.
The ATS spindles are 7/8" drop, not 2".
You mention GW UCAs and LCAs, what about the adjustable uppers for the rear?

[1nkred1ble]

Couple things.
The ATS spindles are 7/8" drop, not 2".
You mention GW UCAs and LCAs, what about the adjustable uppers for the rear?

sorry i meant rear uca & lca's from global west

[6'9"Witha69]

sorry i meant rear uca & lca's from global west

OK, then what about front LCAs? This is one of the areas where you need a coliover specific part otherwise you place a huge load on a part never meant for it.

[Roadbuster]

This is the most discouraging bit of information ive received so far. I can barely tie my shoes, how the heck am i supposed to do all that????? I wish i had a 1/8 of your skill & talent. Thanks for your feedback though, now im off to bakers to get a "suspension parts & lingo to english" dictionary.

Thanks for the compliments! Asking questions is a great start to learn to do this! That is where I started!

I took my time and did this in my garage with a lot of help from this site and Mark at SC&C who I bought the parts from. I don't have a lift or a giant toolbox filled with tools. Almost everything bolted in. I made some small clearance cuts for the SPC upper arms, otherwise my frame is factory stock.

Be prepared to fix the little things that come up. For example: The vibration issue I am working on I am going to try a small spacer under the trans mount. Just some 1/2" aluminum and longer bolts. That I hope will fix the problem until I get the new manual trans, then I have to cut the tunnel to make it fit.

PM me if you need a specific definition of any suspension terms I am happy to help someone learn.

Jon

[ponchopwr70]

I recommend going with sc+c. No one can believe how my car handles. I don't have the best of the best either. I have a boxed chassis, factory welds redone, eldelbrock rear arms with adj. uppers, eibach springs, sc+c stage 2-plus, 1-1/4 front bar, 7/8 rear and eldelbrock shocks. Roadbuster is right on the problems of lowering. My problem is compounded by have a gearvendors on the driveline angle. Its something I deal with and isn't terrible its just not a caddy. I have a sb chevy with dougs headers and they tuck nice and an oval exhaust for more clearance. Heres a pic of my stance my suspension has setteled a little more since but not much.

[1nkred1ble]

Thanks for the compliments! Asking questions is a great start to learn to do this! That is where I started!

I took my time and did this in my garage with a lot of help from this site and Mark at SC&C who I bought the parts from. I don't have a lift or a giant toolbox filled with tools. Almost everything bolted in. I made some small clearance cuts for the SPC upper arms, otherwise my frame is factory stock.

Be prepared to fix the little things that come up. For example: The vibration issue I am working on I am going to try a small spacer under the trans mount. Just some 1/2" aluminum and longer bolts. That I hope will fix the problem until I get the new manual trans, then I have to cut the tunnel to make it fit.

PM me if you need a specific definition of any suspension terms I am happy to help someone learn.

Jon

So After Some More Researching More Reading and MORE SAVING $$$$

Im ready to make to make my first purchase. Im looking to get the coilovers out the way first since they are the heart of my suspension set up, and im looking to work the system around them.

this is the order in which i plan on gathering everything up.

1. DSE front and rear coilovers.
2. Sc&c street comp stage 2 + Afx spindle
3. Spc LCA
4. Spc Adjustable UCA
5. c6 z06 front & rear brakes & calipers
6. Hotchkis/Metco/cpp rear & upper adjustable control arms??????????????

Does anybody know if their is a dse dealer in somewhere in so cal? around the los angeles orange county area?

Did I Get Everything? Am I missing something? maybe some swaybars ?

[1nkred1ble]

thanks for all the great info guys after speaking w/ darren at ride tech seems like i can afford to go with their stage 1 package.

http://www.ridetech.com/products/64_...-1582-941.html

have some pics of sum more goodies
my metco rear upper & lower adjustable control arms, boy are these things purdddyyyy in person!!!!!