Think I warped a rotor.. Need help

[skeeters65]

I drove my car to the gas station and back with the e-brake on half way..



Now it sounds like the rotor is grinding or rubbing.. Is it possible it hot hot and warped enough to rub in one spot??

Can I have them cut to straighten them out? They are cross drilled and slotted..

Thanks

[Apogee]

It's more likely that you have a disc thickness variation condition due to overheating the pads and excessively and unevenly depositing pad material onto the rotors. Considering the alternative to turning your rotors is throwing them away, what do you have to lose? Be sure that whoever turns them gets a good surface finish and doesn't exceed the minimum disc thickness. Then once they're reinstalled, run back through the bedding-in process with the pads.

Tobin
KORE3

[chicane67]

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[skeeters65]

So should I take the rotor off and hit it with the DA??
Would that take the excess pad material off and fix the problem..

I feel like I am driving a POS when I come to a stop and the rotor makes all kinds of noise..

Thanks

[MonzaRacer]

Find a local Firestone Mastercare, see if they have a Pro Cut on car brake lathe and resurface the rotor.
If not calla around to shops that turn rotors and ask if they use a 3 jaw "lathe" style chuck and thats second best way to resurface the rotor IF the manufacturer says its turnable (ie has extra thickness to be removed) and also turn both rears similar amounts. This MAY also make them more suseptable to rewarp as there will be less thickness.
Another way to refinish is find a shop with a flywheel grinder, do the back side first, then put that side down and grind with hat up.
On car is best, and 2 best oncar lathes are the Pro Cut and the Hunter, take it from me I tested about 20 different systems (didnt even know there where that many).
These 2 out shine just about any other. But then these were also demo systems soooo.

[skeeters65]

So a DA with some 80 grit wouldnt take the extra pad material off??
Not a good idea??

Thanks

[1969CamaroRS]

So a DA with some 80 grit wouldnt take the extra pad material off??
Not a good idea??

Thanks

Not and keep the surface flat and true...

[Apogee]

Also, if you had read the article that Chicane linked to, it makes mention that embedding alumina silicate from the sanding disc into the rotor is more than likely to cause similar problems to what you're trying to fix, so probably not the best idea. For similar reasons it doesn't suggest sand or bead blasting the friction surfaces of rotors.

If the rotors that you have allow for turning them, then I think that's your best option. Whether you choose an on or off-car lathe or grinder, I'd cut well past where the rotor just cleans up but never go past the minimum thickness stamped on the rotor. You never really know how bad a rotor is until you turn it, reinstall it, run it, and then either have or don't have the same problem recurr. If it comes back, then that means you didn't cut enough to remove all of the cementite that had previously formed.

Tobin
KORE3

[claytonisbob]

Thanks for that stoptech article BTW, good read!

[BRIAN]

First off what kind of brakes are you running? Early TA/Seville set up?