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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
      Country Flag: United States

      welding on fuel tank

      Don't hate on me too hard for this. I'll be putting my LT1 into my TA this summer and would much prefer an in tank pump compared to an external pump. I'm on a very tight budget so buying a new tank and welding on it is not really an option. So I was wondering if welding on my current tank can be done safely? Also, does anyone know what pump setup should work on my second gen?

      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      NY
      Posts
      1,097
      Quote Originally Posted by WS6 View Post
      So I was wondering if welding on my current tank can be done safely?
      Yes, it can. You would have to purge the tank (fill with argon, and have the argon flowing continuously while you are welding).
      Would I recommend that you do it, absolutely not. $300 (Year One's price) is cheap insurance compared to what it could cost if you attempted to weld on your tank and something went wrong. Good luck!
      The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jun 2005
      Posts
      543
      Quote Originally Posted by toxicz28 View Post
      Yes, it can. You would have to purge the tank (fill with argon, and have the argon flowing continuously while you are welding).
      Would I recommend that you do it, absolutely not. $300 (Year One's price) is cheap insurance compared to what it could cost if you attempted to weld on your tank and something went wrong. Good luck!
      I agree with what he said above.. on a motorcycle tank you could probably get away with cleaning the tank with soap and water.. I've done that in the past.. Let it soak overnight, drain it.. repeat until all fumes are gone... but there's no way you're getting water down that filler neck and draining it back out successfully without leaving crap in your tank.

      Something to consider is how much argon are you gonna go through? I know you're on a budget, but it might be cheaper to have a shop do the work.

      I have heard so many shade tree stories, or urban legends about welding on gas tanks. I always wanted to see Mythbusters do an episode on it. I even suggested it on their web page, but it was buried among millions of suggestions.

      I know the argon thing works.... I know the soap and water thing CAN work.

      Some of the OTHER things I've heard over the years:

      "Just hook the end of your tank up to your exhaust.. that will purge it"

      Except what do you do when your car is running rich and pooring more gas fumes into it?

      "Dry Ice will purge it"

      No comment on this one. Never worked with dry ice... don't really want to. How do you get it into the tank except in little chunks that you have to try and remove?

      My personal favorite:

      "As long as you open a hole at both ends it won't explode on you. A spark will just blow right through and you're good to go."

      Sounds feasable from a logic standpoint... the flame/explosion whatever would seek the path of least resistance before destroying something... it's when pressure builds up that it backfires in your face right? Except that still sounds awful risky to just try.... how much of a "blow through" are we talking here?

      Mathius

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
      Country Flag: United States
      I've read that filling the tank with water can work. I've never done it though.

      jp
      John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      NY
      Posts
      1,097
      Dry ice is just solid CO2. Once it melts,it's a gas. There's nothing to remove. Theoretically, other than displacing some of the vapors, I don't know if dry ice would be the right choice.

      I've heard of someone trying the water thing also. The op's question actually reminded me of the story.

      The guy had the tank propped up between his legs and filled with water so he could braze the filler neck back on. Well, there was a small pocket that couldn't fill with water and the gasoline vapors collected there, right around the filler neck area. When it blew (because it did), I'll give you one guess where the neck went.






      Yes, it went THERE, right into the twig and giggle berries!

      The $300 is well worth the piece of mind to me. And, if money was that tight, I would wait until I had the money to do the swap.

      Come to think of it,I never asked what are you planning on welding to the tank? Are you going to have to cut the tank first? If yes, what will you use to do the cut? If sparks are involved, guess what? You'll need to purge the tank while you cut too.
      The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Posts
      1,869
      Back in the day .... we used to do this all the time. We would run exhaust gas into the tank while welding.

      Same principle as argon but free..
      From a place you will not see comes a sound you will not hear....

      67 Camaro In progress

      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...-Tap-67-camaro

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jan 2009
      Location
      Fort lauderdale
      Posts
      45
      wash it with soap and water really good!!! and weld it. if you smell gas keep washing.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jan 2009
      Posts
      25
      Quote Originally Posted by parsonsj View Post
      I've read that filling the tank with water can work. I've never done it though.

      jp
      Thats how i installed my sump, i flushed it with water for about 10 minutes. I will admit, i was a bit nervous making the first cut

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
      Country Flag: United States
      I had heard the fill it with water line before and thought I would do that to cut the opening in the top. From there, I would drop in and weld the recessed patch in place of the cut out section. The recessed patch would have the lock ring for the drop in OEM style pump as well as the fittings for a return line. I just wasn't sure I could weld metal with water on the back side of it. I think I'll look into a new tank or go with an external pump for now. I was also thinking about baffling a stock tank as well so that the fuel stays around the pump versus building a sump section
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Kingsport, TN. 30 min. from Bristol and 90 min. from Pigeon Forge, TN.
      Posts
      220
      Country Flag: United States
      Water, Argon, Nitrogen, whatever. No Oxygen equals no flames. Its gotta have O2 to burn.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Henderson,NV
      Posts
      2,870
      Country Flag: United States
      Soap and water and your good to go.
      Todd

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Middleton, Wisconsin
      Posts
      95
      I took my tank to a radiator shop, had them clean it, took it to my shop, cut it, welded on it, no problems. Cost about $40.
      Ron B - 1966 Ford Cortina work in progress. 5,0HO, T-5, 8inch with 3.00s, Megasquirt ECU, rollin'on 52 inches!

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      Little Rock, Arkansas
      Posts
      945
      I've worked my tank a couple of times. Both times I filled it with water and kept water running through it for a while before doing anything. No Boom at my house.

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      Albuquerque
      Posts
      217
      I welded on my gas tank last week.
      I added a drain and a return line.
      I hope you're a good welder because that tank is thinner than you think, and it can't leak when you're done.


      I was told a long time ago, by a guy here in town that built all sorts of race cars, before I took him a gas tank to weld pickup lines on, to take the tank to the car wash and use the spray wand and spray that tank with soapy water until there was no more smell.
      I took my tank to the car wash, used a half roll of quarters and let the tank dry overnight. When I took him the tank he smiled and I picked up the tank the next day, very nicely welded. That was a few years ago.

      Mick
      I'm from the government, I'm here to re-distribute your wealth

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
      Country Flag: United States
      I just though of something. My tank is galvanized I do believe. I thought welding on galvanized steel wasn't possible. Or did I just have the wrong settings any time I tried it in the past?
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      Out of the Burbs of Detroit to SoCal, then onto my ancestral homeland, the woods of Cascadia
      Posts
      1,753
      Country Flag: United States
      Zinc needs tobe ground off. Don't breath it when welding, it will make you sick
      Greg Fast
      (yes, the last name is spelled correctly)

      1970 Camaro RS Clone
      1984 el Camino
      1973 MGB vintage E/Prod race car
      (Soon to be an SCCA H/Prod limited prep)

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,709
      Country Flag: United States
      OK first of all at rad shop we used Trich 111, but thats regualted now. So as for tthe exhaust idea, your supposed to hook it to an exh pipe and let car run hot exhaust run for a while, the heat will cook gas out of metal, actually the reason for washing is to get residual gas out. IF you let it set out in hot sun for few days it does same thingbut better safe than sorry, if yuo can see fumes its flammable.
      I also agree, tanks are much thinner than you think.
      But Ido like filling tanks with water while welding. Then the running car exhaust does help dry them out.
      Good Luck

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Eastern Virginia
      Posts
      3,963
      Country Flag: United States
      1978 through 1987 Monte Carlos all used the same fuel tank so an injected sending unit from an 80's G body would work in an older model. Any chance the newer F bodies sending units would work in an older TA tank? Then you don't have to do any welding on it.
      Scot
      86 Monte SS


    19. #19
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
      Country Flag: United States
      I'll be attempting to use my 96 pump setup. I still have to cut a hole, and I'm not sure how to mount the setup to the tank like the factory did in 96. I figure there's going to be some welding involved.

      I guess I need to scan the fuel system forum and look to see how to install a late model pump setup into an old tank.
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Jun 2005
      Posts
      543
      Quote Originally Posted by WS6 View Post
      I just though of something. My tank is galvanized I do believe. I thought welding on galvanized steel wasn't possible. Or did I just have the wrong settings any time I tried it in the past?
      Welding on galvanized metal is entirely possible, although some people find it more difficult than welding bare steel. The coating will burn up making the weld pool react differently and when finished you will often find an almost foamy residue from the burnt up coating.

      Welding on galvanized is done all the time in the sheet metal industry, Even though welding galvanized is NOT good for your health.

      When I first got into welding, my original instructors told me as Twentyover said before me to grind the coating off first. But most guys in the sheet metal industry that I have dealt with won't take the time to do that.

      Honestly, if you want yourself to be as safe as possible, you should always weld with a respirator on, regardless of what you are welding. We all know about the guys who stick welded for 40 years and now are dealing with the consequences now late in life, but almost everything you weld gives off harmful fumes.

      Even the byproducts of welding stainless have been found to be harmful to your health. There is a large thread related to this on Chevytalk right now. Most welders do not use respirators when welding, but everyone should. We're not necessarily talking about stuff that will effect you later in life either, but stuff that could kill you NOW if ingested enough.

      Also, a respirator or at least a dust mask should be worn at all times when grinding or using a cutting wheel. The shreds of fiberglass dust that are created from the wheel are harmful enough for you by themselves, but why people would think that breathing the stuff while grinding galvanized coating is less harmful than breathing it while welding is beyond me.

      Mathius

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