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    Results 21 to 40 of 74
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Stuyvesant, NY
      Posts
      56
      Quote Originally Posted by BAILEIGH INC View Post
      The RDB-125 is $3,895 and is our most popular bender with the garage fabricator. Check out the movie http://www.bii1.com/videos-pages/rdb125-video.php
      That would be great but it's out of my budget range on a bender right now.



    2. #22
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      Manitowoc Wisconsin
      Posts
      202
      Quote Originally Posted by xtrmeta View Post
      That would be great but it's out of my budget range on a bender right now.
      Remember, we offer interest free financing. You can break it up into 12 payment with no interest if you like. Or, you can even stretch it out as long as 60 month and make little baby payments each month till' it's paid off.

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      Hackettstown, NJ
      Posts
      1,026
      Oval or internal mesh tubing
      I thought about integrating a roll bar into the body of my car. It would fit between the inner and outer layers of sheet metal so as to not impede on the interior cabin significantly. the issues I found with this are that any racing body prefers to have the cage viewable and not hidden. I plan on using internally webbed oval or box tubing. this is typical of what the supercars use in their spaceframes. Is my idea something to avaoid unless I build several examples and do crash testing like the OEs which is out of the question?

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Holly, MI
      Posts
      264
      Quote Originally Posted by xtrmeta View Post
      Those are a couple of good ideals but I do most of mt projects during the winter time and I live in NY so working outside isn't an option for me.
      I live in the Detroit area, so I understand your issue. I did a lot of my work in the winter, and bent tubing outside. I put the bender into the hitch on my truck. It really doesn't take very long to actually bend the tube (using a manual bender). You spend a lot more time planning the bends and notching tube. Once you get a tube marked properly, it only takes a few minutes to make the bend. It would take less time if you have a degree wheel.

      The other big problem with having one in your shop is the space needed to use it. I was working with 20' long sections of tubing. I didn't want to cut them down, because my luck I would need a 10.5' piece the instant I cut the tube in half to 10'. Anyway, trying to swing a 20' tube around the shop means you need a lot of open space. If you have it, that's fine. Otherwise you spend a lot of time moving stuff out of the way. Using the trailer hitch also means it a lot easier to share with your friends in exchange for beer.

      Ken
      69 Camaro
      427, 4 speed, TTII's, Konis, JL8 clone brakes, solid AL body bushings, some assembly still required

      69 Corvette
      427, 4 speed, TTII's, Bilsteins, HEI, what I work on while the Camaro sits

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Stuyvesant, NY
      Posts
      56
      Quote Originally Posted by BB69 View Post
      I live in the Detroit area, so I understand your issue. I did a lot of my work in the winter, and bent tubing outside. I put the bender into the hitch on my truck. It really doesn't take very long to actually bend the tube (using a manual bender). You spend a lot more time planning the bends and notching tube. Once you get a tube marked properly, it only takes a few minutes to make the bend. It would take less time if you have a degree wheel.

      The other big problem with having one in your shop is the space needed to use it. I was working with 20' long sections of tubing. I didn't want to cut them down, because my luck I would need a 10.5' piece the instant I cut the tube in half to 10'. Anyway, trying to swing a 20' tube around the shop means you need a lot of open space. If you have it, that's fine. Otherwise you spend a lot of time moving stuff out of the way. Using the trailer hitch also means it a lot easier to share with your friends in exchange for beer.

      Ken
      I spent many years working outside in one of those portable garages before I built my shop. Built a few cars in one. Not much space to move around.
      I have a 30x30 shop which isn't really that big.
      But I'm getting to old to work out in the cold now.

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      Manitowoc Wisconsin
      Posts
      202
      Quote Originally Posted by BB69 View Post
      I live in the Detroit area, so I understand your issue. I did a lot of my work in the winter, and bent tubing outside. I put the bender into the hitch on my truck. It really doesn't take very long to actually bend the tube (using a manual bender). You spend a lot more time planning the bends and notching tube. Once you get a tube marked properly, it only takes a few minutes to make the bend. It would take less time if you have a degree wheel.


      Ken
      An easy solution to the problem!

    7. #27
      Join Date
      May 2001
      Location
      Mesa, Az.
      Posts
      1,434
      Country Flag: United States
      The first bender that I borrowed hooked into a fork lift. This wasn't as convienet as I thought it would be cause I was always getting fluids from the lift on me. Ugh..
      Phillip
      64 Studebaker Daytona Twin Turbo- http://bit.ly/1SgxQ0g
      65 Cutlass F-85 - http://bit.ly/1W4lJm4

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      Manitowoc Wisconsin
      Posts
      202
      Quote Originally Posted by PhillipM View Post
      The first bender that I borrowed hooked into a fork lift. This wasn't as convienet as I thought it would be cause I was always getting fluids from the lift on me. Ugh..
      This is a new one for me. Never heard of that before

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      Manitowoc Wisconsin
      Posts
      202
      Any other questions on bending tube? It is my area of expertise and would love to answer any questions you guys might have.

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Decatur, AL
      Posts
      130
      I have a question about fabbing up a transmission crossmember. What thickness and diameter would you go with for like T-56 six speed transmission and do you think a 115v Lincoln would weld that up pretty well or should I go with a 220v?

      Also what's the easiest setup for bending tubing if you're probably going to use it one time (like me building the crossmember)? I don't feel like spending a lot of money for a bender to use only once would be a great investment.
      2001 Camaro Z28 (DD)
      LS3 525hp GM crate engine, built 4L60e
      1974 Camaro Z28 Type LT
      Solid roller 355 sbc with T-56

    11. #31
      Join Date
      May 2005
      Location
      IL
      Posts
      586
      Country Flag: United States
      I have a ? How much is the this software? "removed link non site sponsor"

      And next question do you have any deals on used or scratch and dent manual benders?? Oh also where is your stuff made???
      Last edited by Larry Callahan; 09-29-2009 at 06:19 AM.
      Rick

    12. #32
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      Manitowoc Wisconsin
      Posts
      202
      Quote Originally Posted by BadRS69 View Post
      I have a ? How much is the this software?

      And next question do you have any deals on used or scratch and dent manuel benders?? Oh also where is your stuff made???
      Bend Tech Pro is $275 and bend tech SE is $399

      Bend Tech Pro software is also very popular with the guys who are just getting started. It makes tube bending simple by allowing you to design your roll cage, rock crawler, racecar or chopper frame right on your computer screen. After designing your project, just click a button, and it will print out a build sheet for each tube. Showing you how long to cut your tube, where to start and stop your bends. It also will print out a notching wrapper as well. These make notching the ends of your tube simple and accurate. Just cut the wrapper out with a pair of scissors, wrap it around the end of your tube, trace it with a sharpie marker and notch your tube. When you are done, you will have a bunch of tube laying on the ground that will be bent and notched that will fit together perfectly.

      All of our tube bender, notchers, power hammers and weld positioners are built right here in Wisconsin.

      Yes, we do get scratch and dent machines from time to time.
      Last edited by Larry Callahan; 09-29-2009 at 06:19 AM.

    13. #33
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      Manitowoc Wisconsin
      Posts
      202
      Quote Originally Posted by kyphur View Post
      I have a question about fabbing up a transmission crossmember. What thickness and diameter would you go with for like T-56 six speed transmission and do you think a 115v Lincoln would weld that up pretty well or should I go with a 220v?

      Also what's the easiest setup for bending tubing if you're probably going to use it one time (like me building the crossmember)? I don't feel like spending a lot of money for a bender to use only once would be a great investment.
      One time use tube bender? you might be better off finding a friend with a bender.

    14. #34
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      Manitowoc Wisconsin
      Posts
      202
      Any other questions on benders or bending?

    15. #35
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Are there acceptable angles that these sanctioning bodies like for you to stay within when bending up your own roll bar/cage? Seems there was a thread somewhere around here mentioning a limitation on certain angles on the bars going from the main hoop back through to the trunk/rear part of the frame.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    16. #36
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      Manitowoc Wisconsin
      Posts
      202
      Quote Originally Posted by John Wright View Post
      Are there acceptable angles that these sanctioning bodies like for you to stay within when bending up your own roll bar/cage? Seems there was a thread somewhere around here mentioning a limitation on certain angles on the bars going from the main hoop back through to the trunk/rear part of the frame.

      Not sure on that one.

    17. #37
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Posts
      2
      Do you have dies for any of your manual benders that will do up to 3" thin wall tube? Was hoping to find one machine I could do cages, bumpers and exhausts.

      thanks

      mac

    18. #38
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      Manitowoc Wisconsin
      Posts
      202
      Quote Originally Posted by mac11 View Post
      Do you have dies for any of your manual benders that will do up to 3" thin wall tube? Was hoping to find one machine I could do cages, bumpers and exhausts.

      thanks

      mac
      Can't do exhaust on an open rotary draw bender. You would need a mandrel bender. $30,000 +

    19. #39
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Posts
      2
      Quote Originally Posted by BAILEIGH INC View Post
      Can't do exhaust on an open rotary draw bender. You would need a mandrel bender. $30,000 +
      bummer. but thanks for the info.

      Just curious if I wanted to do an exhaust in the size that your machines specify why would i still not want to do it on that type?

    20. #40
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      Manitowoc Wisconsin
      Posts
      202
      Quote Originally Posted by mac11 View Post
      bummer. but thanks for the info.

      Just curious if I wanted to do an exhaust in the size that your machines specify why would i still not want to do it on that type?

      The wall thickness is too thin. It would be like trying to bend a soda can with your fingers.

      Rotary draw benders are designed for thicker wall material like roll cages and tube chassis.

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