what should I start with

[81 trans-am]

I am just about done with the metal work on my car and need to start with filler and block sanding. I am getting confused on where to start. Should I spray the entire car with a sealer before any filler?
I want the best job possible But I have no clue. I want to paint the car the same color blue as some off the panels.
Thanks
Karl

[ProdigyCustoms]

Use a epoxy primer like DP 90 and do you bodywork on top of that.

[chavez o]

If all the metal work is done, and filler is necessary, than apply your filler first. You want the bare metal so the filler will adhere properly.Hopefully your metal is worked pretty close to metal finished, so you do not have to use too much filler. The straighter your metal is to start with, the better the job will be. Then come in with your primers or sealers, once its nice and smooth. I have been doing body work for almost 20 years & that is typically how we do it. Others prefer to to use an epoxy or etching primer first, the choice is up to you.

[81 trans-am]

Thanks for the replys. And that is what I thought. It all depends on who you ask. It seems like everyone does it diferently. Can I use an epoxy primer over the old painted surfaces. I thought It was only for bare metal.
Thanks
Karl

[dhutton]

Thanks for the replys. And that is what I thought. It all depends on who you ask. It seems like everyone does it diferently. Can I use an epoxy primer over the old painted surfaces. I thought It was only for bare metal.
Thanks
Karl

Yes you can use epoxy over the old paint so long as you scuff and clean it properly.

As you found out there are two opinions on epoxy or filler first. I chose epoxy then filler because filler absorbs moisture like a sponge and the epoxy gives a layer of protection between the moisture absorbing filler and the bare metal. Some guys do epoxy, filler, and epoxy to seal the filler in to further reduce chances of it absorbing moisture.

I think the job that uses epoxy then filler will last longer.

Take this for what it's worth, I haven't been painting cars for a living but I did do a lot of research.

[JRouche]

I went from bare metal, SPI epoxy, filler, epoxy over the filler, high build primer, block sand, then wrapped it all up tight with epoxy. JR

[jackfrost]

I went from bare metal, SPI epoxy, filler, epoxy over the filler, high build primer, block sand, then wrapped it all up tight with epoxy. JR

that's what i plan on doing as well

[81 trans-am]

Wow thats alot of steps but that is probably the way I will go. I would rather only do this once. At least once per car.(I have too many projects).
Thanks for the good advice.

[JRouche]

It is alot of work, more than I will ever do again. Gotta do everything (almost LOL) at least once to know you dont want to do it again. My hats off to all the professional bodymen and women!! Here are some pics. JR

D/A sanded the body with 80 grit, what a pain!! Took about three weeks to get it all off, all the detailed curved areas were the slowest.


High build primer. Three coats. Theres some filler and a full epoxy (white) coat under it. The filling took about two weeks. Lay it on, block it off, lay it on, block it off, then one more time till it was ready for glazing putty, then block that off smooth.


Guide coat for blocking contrast.


Partial blocking, two weeks to block the whole car down. And Im retired!! Oh, but still lazy, so they weren't full days LOL Im only good for about 3 to 4 hours a day anymore. Then Im beat. But the blocking of the HB is a slow process. Need to use the sanding sheets like they were free, many changes. You want the abrasive to do the cutting and not use much pressure. Specially on this car with its large flat panels that will flex if too much pressure is used. Light pressure and sharp abrasive will give you a nice flat panel.
And again the tight inside curves were time consuming, very short criss-cross, hatch pattern sanding, short strokes take forever, but smooth. And use the same hatch sanding for all the body. The hood and fender are done here.


Then the last three coats of epoxy. I switched to black cause Im thinking I want my final color to be dark, maybe black if I can get away with it, black needs a perfect body, and mine is still far from that. After shooting the black I can really see the additional work needed. But thats gonna be left up to the final painter. Ill haul it off to a painter for the base/clear coats and proper tuning up. And man!! All I was gonna do was protect the body from rust to begin with. It was in some pretty poor primer when I started. But Im confident she will be rust free for the time being.. JR

[81 trans-am]

Thanks for the pics. your car looks like its coming along nice. I think Im going to order some sealer and some high build primer next week. What brand products did you use.
Thanks

[JRouche]

Thanks for the pics. your car looks like its coming along nice. I think Im going to order some sealer and some high build primer next week. What brand products did you use.
Thanks

I used all SPI (Southern polyurethanes). They have great prices, great products and customer support. I screwed up my measuring and doubled the activator (no harm to the mix) and ran out of activator and they send some freebie. JR

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/homepage.htm

[Duesey2]

I also use SPI. You can't beat the customer service, quality, or prices. Definetly prime with a quality epoxy and then use filler over if need be.

[Paint God]

You can do it either way. The epoxy under the filler is nice. It is not necissary as long as you get the filler over nice clean metal (no surface rust). I personally like to chew up the metal with 24 or 36 grit paper on a killer (sander) before I spread it on. this gives it the best adhesion. If you are going to skim it over that surface in the pic you might want to use a polyester filler like 3M's easy sand mixed 50/50 with evercoats Rage Gold filler. This will make it stick really well and feather out really easily.