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    Results 1 to 18 of 18
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jun 2007
      Location
      Simi Valley, CA U.S.A.
      Posts
      209
      Country Flag: United States

      LS1 four wheel disc...poor pedal

      I have the entire brake system from a 2002 SLP Camaro SS on my 69 Camaro. Well everything that is except the antilock unit. The pedal doesn't ever feel very hard. It finally gets some braking at about 1 inch off the floor. It will not lock up the tires it just mushes down to the floor. I've bled the brakes thoroughly about 6 times. I have vacuum to the booster. The pedal actually feels better with the car turned off. Anybody have any ideas?



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Patterson, NY
      Posts
      784
      I am not sure, but I think you might need a scan tool to make the ABS unit bleed itself. I don't think the usual bleeding method will work if you got air in there.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jun 2007
      Location
      Simi Valley, CA U.S.A.
      Posts
      209
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by GetMore View Post
      I am not sure, but I think you might need a scan tool to make the ABS unit bleed itself. I don't think the usual bleeding method will work if you got air in there.
      I didn't use the ABS. That's the only part of the system I didn't use.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,773
      Country Flag: United States
      What are you using in the rear? If you have staggered shocks, are we to assume that you're using 2X LH calipers or are you running LH/RH somehow? Are all of the bleed screws at the tops of the calipers?

      Tobin
      KORE3
      It's what I does.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jun 2007
      Location
      Simi Valley, CA U.S.A.
      Posts
      209
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Apogee View Post
      What are you using in the rear? If you have staggered shocks, are we to assume that you're using 2X LH calipers or are you running LH/RH somehow? Are all of the bleed screws at the tops of the calipers?

      Tobin
      KORE3
      All the bleed screws are at the top. I mini-tubbed it so the shocks are inboard of the springs so I was able to use the calipers exactly like they came off the donor car. Let me look and see if I have a picture.


      This is the best picture I could find. It's when I was mocking things up before I made them pretty.


    6. #6
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Posts
      12
      Which master cylinder are you using? Is it a new one?
      Soft pedal is almost always air somewhere. New master cylinders can be a pain to bleed and doing it with new calipers can take some time to get it all out.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jun 2007
      Location
      Simi Valley, CA U.S.A.
      Posts
      209
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by buddyholly View Post
      Which master cylinder are you using? Is it a new one?
      Soft pedal is almost always air somewhere. New master cylinders can be a pain to bleed and doing it with new calipers can take some time to get it all out.
      The one that came from the donor car. It was a running car. My first thought also was air somewhere.... It bleeds nice and clean with no bubbles at this point. That's why I'm stumped.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2001
      Location
      Connecticut
      Posts
      1,570
      Country Flag: United States
      x2 if you don't have air in the system, it's usually the bench bleed on the master cyl.
      1968 Camaro RS/SS, LS7 with Katech mods, T56 Magnum, C6Z06 Brakes
      1968 Camaro RS Convertible LS3/480hp/4L70E
      1962 Corvette 327-340hp stock
      1963 Corvette Split Window Coupe
      1967 Corvette L79 convertible
      2006 Corvette Z06
      2011 Corvette GS convertible


    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jun 2007
      Location
      Simi Valley, CA U.S.A.
      Posts
      209
      Country Flag: United States
      I bench bled the master this morning. I bled the brakes after re-installing the master. It's a little better but it still has a soft mushy pedal most of the ways towards the bottom. Anybody have any other ideas?

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Sep 2008
      Location
      Kathleen, GA
      Posts
      159
      still sounds like air, especially if it got better after the last bleed session...may have to look into power bleeding it or may have a bad master cylinder...

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Hamilton, NJ
      Posts
      4,317
      Country Flag: United States
      Scott from NJ.

      Vent Windows Forever! ...

      Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold
      I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Kettering, OH
      Posts
      537
      I had the same problem with my LS1 conversion. Power bled everything five times over. I finally figured out that the piston boots were retracting the pistons too far causing excessive pedal travel. A slow drive around the block with some moderate brake application fixed it.
      1967 Firebird Convert, Fuel Injected 462 ci, TKO 600
      http://1967firebird.atwebpages.com

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Jun 2007
      Location
      Simi Valley, CA U.S.A.
      Posts
      209
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Hammered View Post
      I had the same problem with my LS1 conversion. Power bled everything five times over. I finally figured out that the piston boots were retracting the pistons too far causing excessive pedal travel. A slow drive around the block with some moderate brake application fixed it.
      I don't understand your fix? I've driven the car quite a bit now and it's the same. Did you limit the travel then drive it? Please elaborate

    14. #14
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      I think what he is saying is:
      Drive stopping ability is actually less that if you were applying the pedal at a rest. Have you driven the car yet?

      Also you might have wiped out the master cylinder seals when bleeding it. This happens often with used masters.
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    15. #15
      Join Date
      Jun 2007
      Location
      Simi Valley, CA U.S.A.
      Posts
      209
      Country Flag: United States
      Yes I have driven it. The car has about 100 miles on it at this point. The car will stop but if you try and stop hard it will just mush to the floor. It will not lock up the wheels as a result.

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Kettering, OH
      Posts
      537
      Sorry, I thought you were testing while still on the jack stands.

      Maybe you got a bad master since you've bled everything thoroughly.
      1967 Firebird Convert, Fuel Injected 462 ci, TKO 600
      http://1967firebird.atwebpages.com

    17. #17
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      But what is funny is that his pedal is fine with no assist.

      Can you give us details on the lines, prop/combo valve and rear tee used.
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    18. #18
      Join Date
      Jun 2007
      Location
      Simi Valley, CA U.S.A.
      Posts
      209
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by MrQuick View Post
      But what is funny is that his pedal is fine with no assist.
      Or maybe the master just isn't bad anough to leak without the additional power of the booster. I'm really starting to lean towards a new master.




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