media blasting question??

[smooth68]

I recently purchased a media blaster...when I ordered it I was told I could use soda as a blasting media in it...when it arrived it says it is a sand blaster, but it does NOT state anywhere that I can,t use soda as a blasting media...Does anyone know if I can or does it take a certain blaster that is dedicated to using soda only...I definitely wont use sand!!

[LateNight72]

I wouldn't use soda anyhow. My $0.02

[smooth68]

If you would not use soda, what would you use??? I understand for automobile restoration it is recommended over most other medias with the exception of plastic beads...I,m all ears...

[TT302Z28]

I have used glass bead for years....that is what is used in most machine shops to clean aluminum.

Check out an Eastwood catalog or their website. They sell most everything you could want for your cabinet.

Sorry for pimping Eastwood if there is a site sponsor who also sells the same.

[70LS1NOVA]

You CAN soda blast with your sandblaster, just use a small tip. However, soda blasting leaves a residue that SHOULD be washeed off with water and surely you don't want to do that with bare metal. If you're blastin fiberglass, that's fine. If you're blasting metal, you should be using plastic media or walnut shells.

[LateNight72]

Even with rinsing with water & vinegar, problems down the line are a chance. Almost every paint manufacturer no longer recommends or will warranty their paint that is applied over Soda blasted metal.

Sodium Bicarbonate is a salt. Nothing really dissolves it when rinsed, even most mild acids [vinegar] take a long time to dissolve NaHCO3. Thus, some of it can remain behind after even the most thorough of wash/rinse jobs.

[LateNight72]

I like ground (crushed) glass.

[Greg from Aus]

Hi Smooth68

To start with, I have a soda blasting company in Perth Western Australia. I have been soda blasting for 9 years and blasted hundreds probably closer to thousands of cars without any come back or problems, You can probably use soda with your machine, but it will probably use way to much product, as soda is very fine and very susceptible to moisture.
On the crap that people talk about soda, it just that crap.

The facts:

• Soda does a great job of removing paint.
• Soda will not remove the natural protection that your panels were stamped with ( the Zinc or Galv).
• Soda does not have any heat transfer and will not warp the metal.
• Soda will not remove rust, and any thing that does will cause heat transfer and Very likely warp your panels and should only be use in area's that have lots of shape to the panel.

The fiction:

• You have problems painting over soda. Don't blame them lack of preparation on the soda.
• You don't want to wash bare metal. Soda leaves the factory zinc on the panels, so washing is not a problem, we recommend that our client use a Phosphoric based detergent to wash down with after the process, this serves 2 purpose's, 1 it neutralise's the process, and 2 it will convert any rust.

I am sorry for the long winded response, but as I said I have been blasting for a long time, and I am sick and tired of all the rubbish that has been talked about soda. in 1 of the statements, it says it's OK for fiberglass, can some one please explain the difference, as it is a painting process's that requires adhesion.

After blasting we can have cars in bare metal for months, And no it's not due to another bit of fiction that the soda stops it from rusting, it's due to the fact that the zinc has not been removed.

Regards

Greg

[LateNight72]

On the crap that people talk about soda, it just that crap.

Can you explain why many companies will not warranty their products on cars/panels that have been Soda blasted?

[Greg from Aus]

Can you explain why many companies will not warranty their products on cars/panels that have been Soda blasted?

We don't have any companies that will not warranty their product after soda blasting, and I believe there is only a couple in the US that won't, again most of it is Chinese whispers that have got out of control. And 1 of the company's that said they wouldn't warranty their product stated it was because they couldn't control the lack of preparation by people after the process.

It is no different if people use paint stripper and a number of other products that if they are not dealt with properly, they will come out from lap joints, and other places and cause problems later.
It all comes down to the proper process be followed.
Like I said I have been blasting for 9 years with soda and have not had any probblems, and I have 4 of my own cars that have been blasted for over 7 years now.

Greg

[smooth68]

Thank you all for your comments...My personal belief is that it likely comes down to the clean up work after blasting, as it would with any of the mentioned medias...Tonner do you ever use any other medias? If so what else do you recommend? Plastic, glass or walnut? of all of them which one strips the fastest without doing damage??...I plan on using a good etching primer as soon as i am finished, so it will not be sitting long enough to allow surface rust to start...

[Greg from Aus]

Hi Robert

Plastic media is an option, but it is a multiple pass media that needs to be reclaimed cleaned through a cyclone and a magnet to remove foreign matter and then reused,you will probably get about 6 - 10 passes out of it, but the initial purchase price and the reclaimer equipment make it very expensive.

Walnut in my op ion is not that great, and leaves and oil contamination from the nut that needs to be rectified.

Any other media, Garnet, Sand, black beauty, glass, etc. will leave a profile on the metal, and remove the Zinc - Galv coating from your panels and I have no idea why you would want to remove this secondary protection barrier if it is not necessary. This is not a problem in many places, but any product that leaves a profile, is doing so by removing metal and will induce heat into the surface. It is critical on Roofs, hoods, rear deck lids, doors, quarter panels that heat is not induced, as your panels will end up with more wave than the ocean.

Regards

Greg

[smooth68]

Thanks again Tonner, I think I will stick with the original plan of soda blasting, it seems to be the least expensive and I would have less worry about doing damage....Do I need any special adapters to use soda in the media (sand) blaster...also what type of dryer do you recommend and who do you recommend for the best price on the soda...I am also trying to save as much as possible by doing this myself so as far as the dryer goes I need the best bang for the dollar I can get....

There is a local company that will do the entire car for $1000 but I am hoping I can do it for less myself since the car is already in pieces and on a rotisserie in by backyard shop!

[Greg from Aus]

Thanks again Tonner, I think I will stick with the original plan of soda blasting, it seems to be the least expensive and I would have less worry about doing damage....Do I need any special adapters to use soda in the media (sand) blaster...also what type of dryer do you recommend and who do you recommend for the best price on the soda...I am also trying to save as much as possible by doing this myself so as far as the dryer goes I need the best bang for the dollar I can get....

There is a local company that will do the entire car for $1000 but I am hoping I can do it for less myself since the car is already in pieces and on a rotisserie in by backyard shop!

I can't suggest where to get soda as I am in Australia, so I can't help. I really think for the mess you are going to create in you shop, becuase it turns to a dust like talc powder, you would be better of paying the $1000.00, which is a really good price and not have the huge mess you are going to have, I have over 50,000.00 invested in dust extraction just so I can do the job properly.

Regards

Greg

[minendrews68]

How about pea gravel?.......................No, just kidding. Thought everyone needed a little humor.