Procharged Chevy 350

[kenhaw]

Hi
I have a procharged chevy 350 with a Carb Shop prepped 4150 carb.
This doesn´t have provisions for my PCV valve/hose, where do I put it? I am also experiencing oil vapours from my two breathers when I put the foot down.
The engine is a ZZ4 Fastburn with hot cam kit.
Thax in advance

Kenneth

[notagn]

Make the choice PCV or crank breathers. You dont need both.

[kenhaw]

So if I understand correct, they both have they same job.
I can actually remove the PCV valve and install another breather instead?
The PCV normally leads the fumes into the carb again, for the fumes to be burned?
So I could also remove all the breathers and instead run hoses into the carb or spacerplate and like this I would have no problems with oilfumes running down onto the headers? Is that correct?

[SicMonte]

can you pm me pics of your set up? I am in the process of doing the same thing to mine. How do you like the carb shop carb??

[notagn]

yes, Might want to do a leak down test to check rings. your engine should burn the oil from your crankcase but could lead to a lean condition with a pcv.

[HILROD]

On my Camaro I run 2 PCV valves like a factory turbo Syclone. One works normal plummed into the intake, the other goes into the air intake side near the filter. It only works under boost. Both of them have small oil seperators inline and small one way check valves. I should have a few in progress pics in my Garage.

[Procharmo]

I also have a Procharged 355 with two breathers dirty headers. I have done some research and think the best way to go is to plumb -12AN vents with hoses from each valve cover to a pair of angled spouts which I will/could have welded on or just behind the collectors.
This will allow the vacuum caused by the exhaust gases to suck out the crankcase pressure/fumes.
In alternatively I could route the hoses to oil catch cans with breathers (easiest option) or to an auxiliary vacuum pump. (Complex additional pulleys/belts).
Lastly wouldn't re introducing spent air/fumes into the intake dillute the O2 in the incoming charge. OK on a mid performance car but if you've Procharged it why go with a cheaper system employed by auto manufacturers (SMOG style PCV to intake) when older hotrods used the collectors and high performance motors often employed the vacuum pump. (Internals move faster in a partial vacuum). Please correct me if I'm wrong on any of this.

[notagn]

I used a pan E-vac system on my last 383 it works great. just make sure to check the depth of the check valve going into the collector.

[JDP Jordan]

can you pm me pics of your set up? I am in the process of doing the same thing to mine. How do you like the carb shop carb??

I run the Carb Shop set up and it's great! They know there stuff and support it! Great group of guys!

[Procharmo]

Funnily I also have a Carb Shop carb. No problems yet. I did have to tighten the bowl screws after a few hundred miles but no other issues yet.

[H2Ogbodies]

I have a suggestion for you that is an outside-of-the-box way of thinking and it works very well. First of all, what you are experiencing is excessive blow-by-unburnt hydrocarbons if you will that are escaping past the rings and venting outside of your engine. Now, as you might glean from my screenname, I have quite a bit of experimentation with using water as a power adder/fuel assist agent. Why waste your PCV routing by simply venting it or not running one at all? I suggest routing your PCV to a tank of distilled water and running a vacuum line to a manifold source to "steamclean" your engine under hard acceleration. This system does not inject water but it does inject a vaporous water steam which serves to clean and maintain your valves and pistons as well as your intake track to keep them carbon free. This will augment your forced induction performance by eliminating detonation caused by carbon build-up which we all know creates hot spots that lead to a catostrophic mis-fire under boost. PM me if want details on building one-you can build a nice PCV scrubber system for as little as $35 and they work extremely well. This also serves to increase mileage without any reduction in hp.
Right now I am working on a long rod engine design combined with HHO water assist that once completed should net a 600 hp motor while being able to knock down 60 mpg on 87 octane with a 12:1 compression ratio. I've done quite a bit of work with water fuel, ozone injection, fuel ionization, etc. and it'll work-I've been lurking on this board for quite a while so I thought I would start sharing my projects with your guys. I started off over a year ago thinking this water assist thing was a gimmick but after some experimenting, I can tell you this technology is for real and it's scary what you can achieve with it! Maybe we should create a new thread for water power...idk.

[wicked68]

I run the Carb Shop set up and it's great! They know there stuff and support it! Great group of guys!

are you spinning your blower full - and if so what intake temps are you getting and what psi are you running at the intake.

how much hp are you running?

[kenhaw]

Sorry guys. Difficult to keep track on the threads.
Ok I did this for now. I found an empty vaccum port on my carb sitting in the lowest part on the backside, removed the 2 small brass plugs and threded it and installed an AN fitting which is now connected to the hose from the PCV valve.
I already run a water/alcohol system.
I am not running full boost since my engine isn´t built for it..... yet.
I would think around 7-8 psi is what I am running.
There are soo many things that needs to be changed and I am not sure if it isn´t cheaper to start with a completely new motor built for boost.
I know that I will need new heads, new intake and also forged pistons, but I am not looking to go completely crazy, maybe something like 600-700 hp max.
I have just bought new willwood brakes, a rear suspension from Prodigy plus some more of the nice carbon fiber parts from Anvil.
Hopefully it will arrive soon from Frank.

thx for all the replies, it is such a pleasure to be able to use all you guys knowledge.

[kenhaw]

I have a suggestion for you that is an outside-of-the-box way of thinking and it works very well. First of all, what you are experiencing is excessive blow-by-unburnt hydrocarbons if you will that are escaping past the rings and venting outside of your engine. Now, as you might glean from my screenname, I have quite a bit of experimentation with using water as a power adder/fuel assist agent. Why waste your PCV routing by simply venting it or not running one at all? I suggest routing your PCV to a tank of distilled water and running a vacuum line to a manifold source to "steamclean" your engine under hard acceleration. This system does not inject water but it does inject a vaporous water steam which serves to clean and maintain your valves and pistons as well as your intake track to keep them carbon free. This will augment your forced induction performance by eliminating detonation caused by carbon build-up which we all know creates hot spots that lead to a catostrophic mis-fire under boost. PM me if want details on building one-you can build a nice PCV scrubber system for as little as $35 and they work extremely well. This also serves to increase mileage without any reduction in hp.
Right now I am working on a long rod engine design combined with HHO water assist that once completed should net a 600 hp motor while being able to knock down 60 mpg on 87 octane with a 12:1 compression ratio. I've done quite a bit of work with water fuel, ozone injection, fuel ionization, etc. and it'll work-I've been lurking on this board for quite a while so I thought I would start sharing my projects with your guys. I started off over a year ago thinking this water assist thing was a gimmick but after some experimenting, I can tell you this technology is for real and it's scary what you can achieve with it! Maybe we should create a new thread for water power...idk.

Think this is very interesting reading. Please keep us updated on your progress.

[camcojb]

I have a suggestion for you that is an outside-of-the-box way of thinking and it works very well. First of all, what you are experiencing is excessive blow-by-unburnt hydrocarbons if you will that are escaping past the rings and venting outside of your engine. Now, as you might glean from my screenname, I have quite a bit of experimentation with using water as a power adder/fuel assist agent. Why waste your PCV routing by simply venting it or not running one at all? I suggest routing your PCV to a tank of distilled water and running a vacuum line to a manifold source to "steamclean" your engine under hard acceleration. This system does not inject water but it does inject a vaporous water steam which serves to clean and maintain your valves and pistons as well as your intake track to keep them carbon free. This will augment your forced induction performance by eliminating detonation caused by carbon build-up which we all know creates hot spots that lead to a catostrophic mis-fire under boost. PM me if want details on building one-you can build a nice PCV scrubber system for as little as $35 and they work extremely well. This also serves to increase mileage without any reduction in hp.
Right now I am working on a long rod engine design combined with HHO water assist that once completed should net a 600 hp motor while being able to knock down 60 mpg on 87 octane with a 12:1 compression ratio. I've done quite a bit of work with water fuel, ozone injection, fuel ionization, etc. and it'll work-I've been lurking on this board for quite a while so I thought I would start sharing my projects with your guys. I started off over a year ago thinking this water assist thing was a gimmick but after some experimenting, I can tell you this technology is for real and it's scary what you can achieve with it! Maybe we should create a new thread for water power...idk.

water or water/methanol injection has been around for a long time. Yours is a variant on that idea I'd guess without the high pressure pump to feed it.

I use water injection on every pump gas build I do, but how is this going to help his crankcase pressure issues? I'll answer that, it won't..............

Jody

[kenhaw]

On my Camaro I run 2 PCV valves like a factory turbo Syclone. One works normal plummed into the intake, the other goes into the air intake side near the filter. It only works under boost. Both of them have small oil seperators inline and small one way check valves. I should have a few in progress pics in my Garage.

Hi Hilrod

Just want to get some more info on this system of yours. Have seen your pictures and if I am correct you lead a hose to the pipe between the airfilter and the procharger, which creates vacuum. Have you got any problem with the procharger getting dirty from the oilfumes or do the oilseperator do the job properly?

Just to be sure that I understand the system correctly.

PCV valve to intake ( carb ) with checkvalve and oilseperator.
PCV valve to pipe between procharger and airfilter with checkvalve and oilseperator.
Normal breather in valve cover.

Can you please tell me what kind of oilseperators and checkfilters you are running.

Thx