Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Results 1 to 7 of 7
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Halden, Norway, Europe
      Posts
      213

      Hard brake lines install for newbie

      Hi,

      I've installed a Baer GT 13" for AFX spindle kit on my 64 Chevelle now. It originally came with a single pot master cylinder and the new kit has a dual MC. I need to change some of the hard brakelines, but how and what parts should I get? I have never done it before and really want to do this right, brakes are the single most important thing in a car...

      Should I remove all the hardlines while I'm at it or can I reuse most of them, just get a new "junction box" to split front left & right and just splice on a new piece from the existing rear line to the MC? The existing lines all look fine.

      Also, what kind of brake fluid should I use? I will be trying the car at the track this summer so it should be some high quality stuff.

      Thanks for any help and excuse my lack of knowledge...

      Edit: Don't know if it matters, but I've just bought a LS1 rear brake setup...

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Southern California
      Posts
      566
      Country Flag: United States
      From my experience on my car.

      If you want Stainless lines get the $300 hydraulic flaring tool. Stainless is nice but a pain to work with.

      I tried a cheap flaring tool and it was junk, the $55 craftsman worked for steel line. Summit has a pack of flare nuts and the line, not too expensive. Don't forget to put the nut on before you flare the line!

      the easiest is to get the lines from the auto parts store. they have them pre-terminated in different lengths. Just bend to fit.



      A cheap tubing bender will work (and your hands!)

      For fluid I used ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid Dot 4. Needed a liter to flush my system. Still have 5 cans left! This stuff comes in metal cans and in two colors so you know when you have flushed the old stuff out. Compatible with the old fluid. Stay away from Dot 5.

      Get an adjustable proportioning valve. Allows you to dial in the front/rear bias.

      Hope this helps.

      Jon
      Last edited by Roadbuster; 01-13-2009 at 06:55 AM. Reason: forgot the prop valve
      Jon U.

      1968 GTO - SC&C Suspension, Forgeline SO3 Wheels
      Build Thread
      1967 911 with a few mods


    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Halden, Norway, Europe
      Posts
      213
      Quote Originally Posted by Roadbuster View Post
      From my experience on my car.

      If you want Stainless lines get the $300 hydraulic flaring tool. Stainless is nice but a pain to work with.

      I tried a cheap flaring tool and it was junk, the $55 craftsman worked for steel line. Summit has a pack of flare nuts and the line, not too expensive. Don't forget to put the nut on before you flare the line!

      the easiest is to get the lines from the auto parts store. they have them pre-terminated in different lengths. Just bend to fit.

      A cheap tubing bender will work (and your hands!)

      For fluid I used ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid Dot 4. Needed a liter to flush my system. Still have 5 cans left! This stuff comes in metal cans and in two colors so you know when you have flushed the old stuff out. Compatible with the old fluid. Stay away from Dot 5.

      Get an adjustable proportioning valve. Allows you to dial in the front/rear bias.

      Hope this helps.

      Jon
      Thanks a lot, this helps tremendously. One thing though, can I use some of the old tubing? Just connect new lines from the MC to the old ones with some kind of fitting? One more point of failure which is not that good though.

      I think getting pre-terminated lines is a good idea instead of doing the flaring myself. I found a flaring tool at yearone though, don't know if it's any good... http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/f...lare&SM=1&SC=0

      The tubebender should be easy to get at the local parts store.

      An adj. prop. valve is built into the new MC if I'm not mistaken.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
      Posts
      1,240
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 64Chevelle View Post
      I found a flaring tool at yearone though, don't know if it's any good... http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/f...lare&SM=1&SC=0
      I have about four of the various types of those flare tools. They are the common variety. But... They arent all made the same. The reason I ended up getting other ones is the bottom die, the tube clamp, just wasnt holding. It takes alot of pressure to make a FULL double flare. And I was having problems with the tube getting pushed down for the second part of the flare. And It would make the flare too shallow. The rolled lip wasnt deep enough cause the tube was pushed down some during the second op..

      Then I bought an Imperial Eastman tool, the same style as the one you posted and it was like night and day. My thinking is the bottom die is just made with tighter tolerances and of a better metal so it really gripped the tubing, didnt allow it to slip down. I was back in the game of making brake lines.

      I also bought a Weatherhead flaring tool. Whole different design. Now thats my fav. Makes flaring a snap, but not cheap, I got it used.

      But with all the various lengths of line you can get with fittings attached its almost simpler to go that route. I just wanted to learn to do the entire thing myself. But now I have all these tools and dont need them

      So for you I would say find the lines already made up. And the bending part is easy. Any bender will work. Dont wanna tell you about some of the nice ones I ended up getting LOL A pipe clamped in the vice will work just fine too. And your hands, the stuff is soft, just go slow. JR

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Posts
      25
      You did say brakes were the single most important thing.....So why consider staying with 44 year old lines?

      I went with a pre bent SS set from inline tube. The only cuts and reflares I had to do were in the rear (to connect to the LS1/F-body flex lines) and one short line in the front for the adjustable prop valve.

      Don't forget a bag of new line clips - your bound to break a few of them removing the old lines.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Halden, Norway, Europe
      Posts
      213
      Quote Originally Posted by MJRIBEIRO View Post
      You did say brakes were the single most important thing.....So why consider staying with 44 year old lines?

      I went with a pre bent SS set from inline tube. The only cuts and reflares I had to do were in the rear (to connect to the LS1/F-body flex lines) and one short line in the front for the adjustable prop valve.

      Don't forget a bag of new line clips - your bound to break a few of them removing the old lines.
      Excellent advice! I'll make sure to check that out.

      I never said the lines were 44 years old They are still pretty old though, but look very solid.

      EDIT: I checked the inline tube site and I could not find any kit to convert to a dual circuit MC, just for the original single pot MC. I mailed them to check if they can provide a custom kit, we'll see... If anyone happens to know such a kit, please let me know!!!

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Posts
      25
      They have them as a stock part - try
      CHB64D1 - 1964-1967 Chevelle Power Disc Brake Conversion Line Set 9pc - Hardtop




    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com