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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      25

      Old Project Needs A New Skin

      I have been a member for a while but not posted, my project took a wrong turn and hopefully I can get it back on track.

      http://i38.tinypic.com/15fnlmb.jpg
      I am sure some of you know what this machine in the above pic is, for those who don't...... It is a mill build gage for measuring the depth of bodywork (it uses sonar to measure the depth of bodywork). As I have been told, a new fender with Emt coat will read .8mill or less, collision repair standards are 10-15mill, Rust restoration/classic restoration standards are 20-25mill these are maximum worst case specifications on small areas.
      My car was acid dipped and all metal work was done, the car was supposed to have been metal finished........ The mill gage shows different, average reading on my car is 50mill with some areas so deep it can not read them.
      Here is some pics to show you the filler and rust issues.
      http://i35.tinypic.com/2e1dk6w.jpg
      http://i33.tinypic.com/2j18wew.jpg
      http://i33.tinypic.com/30j193b.jpg
      http://i37.tinypic.com/1z3p1cj.jpg
      http://i38.tinypic.com/552m83.jpg
      http://i33.tinypic.com/a0dl01.jpg
      http://i37.tinypic.com/2yo692g.jpg
      http://i38.tinypic.com/6xvnmw.jpg
      http://i35.tinypic.com/5pn22v.jpg
      http://i33.tinypic.com/aue0qv.jpg
      http://i33.tinypic.com/15d5jjk.jpg
      http://i37.tinypic.com/25u2z6b.jpg
      http://i34.tinypic.com/2j2z1j7.jpg



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      25
      pcs too big, fixed above

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      NW Oregon
      Posts
      581
      Country Flag: United States
      Where was your car (shop name) when they did this?

      I am assuming they know of your complaints and have not replied as you would like.....
      RobS
      71 Demon, 6.1hemi, paddled 4l65e, AlterK, Tri4,

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      25
      Quote Originally Posted by rjsjea
      Where was your car (shop name) when they did this?

      I am assuming they know of your complaints and have not replied as you would like.....
      I will not post that information unless the site moderators/administrators will allow it.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      NW Oregon
      Posts
      581
      Country Flag: United States
      Are you looking for a new shop to fix the previous work then?

      Looks like it probably needs to be stripped down as you have no idea what was done to it. I hate body shop horror stories......sorry to see what was done. It looks unacceptable..
      RobS
      71 Demon, 6.1hemi, paddled 4l65e, AlterK, Tri4,

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      25
      I am just posting it as a build thread, hope to get some helpfull tips as how to fix it as I go. I take it that this is not normal for a shop to do on a high dollar build?

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Location
      Ottawa, Ohio
      Posts
      34
      While it's not normal at all for any professional shop to lay filler that thick, unfortunately shops like that are everywhere. I am amazed at your depth measurement of .357. That filler is almost 3/8" thick. It will certainly crack and fall off. It's obvious that the shop cut corners to avoid doing the work properly and now sadly, you are going to have to pay to redo the car. I can help with your situation, but the car will have to be stripped to bare steel again. Feel free to contact me for assistance if you like.

      Thanks,
      Nick @ MWCC

      www.m-w-c-c.com

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      25
      Quote Originally Posted by MWCC
      While it's not normal at all for any professional shop to lay filler that thick, unfortunately shops like that are everywhere. I am amazed at your depth measurement of .357. That filler is almost 3/8" thick. It will certainly crack and fall off. It's obvious that the shop cut corners to avoid doing the work properly and now sadly, you are going to have to pay to redo the car. I can help with your situation, but the car will have to be stripped to bare steel again. Feel free to contact me for assistance if you like.

      Thanks,
      Nick @ MWCC

      www.m-w-c-c.com
      Thanks for the offer, I am in Langley,BC...Canada. I think shipping will kill anything that I might save. Stripping the car is going to be a costly affair, the blaster can said he can only do certain areas, filler is too thick in most places he said. I also looked into acid dipping the car again, but the box liner stuff on the underside (never seen box liner as ugly or thick) has to be manually removed befor dipping, plus the dipping is a costly affair here since only one place can do it. Got any other ideas on stripping the car down?

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jun 2002
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,387
      Country Flag: United States
      Since you are on a budget, I would buy a d/a sander, some 36 and 80 grade paper and go to town!

      That won't take a lot of money, alittle time....but you will be able to move forward with a new shop! You actually lucky the car wasn't painted....that would have slowed down the process! Also, this wont effect the bottom of the car like dipping it would have.

      Best of luck!!
      Tony

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      25
      Quote Originally Posted by awr68
      Since you are on a budget, I would buy a d/a sander, some 36 and 80 grade paper and go to town!

      That won't take a lot of money, alittle time....but you will be able to move forward with a new shop! You actually lucky the car wasn't painted....that would have slowed down the process! Also, this wont effect the bottom of the car like dipping it would have.

      Best of luck!!
      Thank you for the comments. The bottom of the car has to be stripped as well, there were no brackets made for exhaust, fuel lines, brake lines, etc. Actually none of these parts were even fabricated before they box lined and painted the underside.....hmmmm????

      There is even filler in the new trans tunnel that was fabricated, it is over the reading capability of the guage.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jun 2002
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,387
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Brian46
      The bottom of the car has to be stripped as well, there were no brackets made for exhaust, fuel lines, brake lines, etc. Actually none of these parts were even fabricated before they box lined and painted the underside.....hmmmm????
      Those parts are usually fastened to a finished car using hardware. I wouldn't strip the bottom for that reason alone.

      I'm not saying that mocking up systems before paint isn't a good idea....but things like fuel lines, brake lines, and exhaust brackets are usually fastened to the car after paint...not welded to the chassis.
      Tony

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      25
      Quote Originally Posted by awr68
      Those parts are usually fastened to a finished car using hardware. I wouldn't strip the bottom for that reason alone.

      I'm not saying that mocking up systems before paint isn't a good idea....but things like fuel lines, brake lines, and exhaust brackets are usually fastened to the car after paint...not welded to the chassis.
      I understand they use hardware to mount, but there is no hardware, or provisions in the body to mount it to wether it be holes, mounting tabs, nut certs, nothing is there, just a thick layer of box liner. I hope you are not suggetsing to just use self taping screws allover the place to mount things on a high dollar car. Even drilling holes for the fuel and brake line routing on a finish painted car is not the way to get a quality job is it?

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Jun 2002
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,387
      Country Flag: United States
      Yes mounting studs would be nice, I agree! But to be honest many drill and touch up the paint during assembly.

      Are you capable of doing any of this yourself? Even if you had to clean off a few spots to weld on studs the liner can be touched up.

      Just trying to get you on the positive track here! When the guys turned the energy around on my deal good things started happening!
      Tony

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Macon, Ga.
      Posts
      8,085
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Brian46
      I will not post that information unless the site moderators/administrators will allow it.
      I think it is best if you keep that info and beef between yourself and the shop involved since no one else knows all the facts.
      Thanks,

      Oh, and if this is going to be a build thread, I will be happy to move it there for you if you like. It will get much more attention there than here I think.
      Bill

      Trailers are for BOATS!

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      25
      Quote Originally Posted by Bill Howell
      I think it is best if you keep that info and beef between yourself and the shop involved since no one else knows all the facts.
      Thanks,

      Oh, and if this is going to be a build thread, I will be happy to move it there for you if you like. It will get much more attention there than here I think.
      I had no intention on naming names unless it was allowed. I introduced the project here since it was new, moving it sounds good if I will get some helpfull advice.

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      25
      Quote Originally Posted by awr68
      Yes mounting studs would be nice, I agree! But to be honest many drill and touch up the paint during assembly.

      Are you capable of doing any of this yourself? Even if you had to clean off a few spots to weld on studs the liner can be touched up.

      Just trying to get you on the positive track here! When the guys turned the energy around on my deal good things started happening!
      don't get me wrong, I try and think positive, I even have a member from another site coming to look at it to see if he or his shop can help. I can do pretty much anything mechanical if I have the tools at hand (cert ASE tech for a number of years) except for paint and body. But every time I lift the car cover it sucks the right track out of me.

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Jun 2002
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,387
      Country Flag: United States
      Trust me (you know what I've been threw!), if it is truely needed, stripping the car will make you feel much better! Get out the d/a and don't stop untill it's done! You will be happier looking at bare metal that what is depressing you at the moment!

      I would have a few people look at it first just to make sure it all has to be stripped. But most guys would rather start from bare metal.

      Get that done and to a shop ASAP, got to get the fire back into the build....it worked for me!!
      Tony

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Posts
      22
      Been lurking here for a while and felt like I needed to chime in here.

      I have a couple of questions:

      I saw some your posts regarding this situation over on Lateral-g.net, did you create an account here simply to rake someone over the coals or what?

      I'm wondering what the status was of the build when you decided to take it out of the shop? I mean were things still progressing? Was the billing/payment schedule being kept to by both sides?

      Is what we are looking at the finished product or still a work in progress?

      Was the rust overlooked or just not gotten to yet?

      I have personally seen a lot of work that has come out of the shop in question and it is top notch work from what I saw and what I have seen at SEMA.

      Not entirely to my taste, but the work did not look anything like what I see in those pictures and each owner I have spoken with has had nothing but good to say about them.

      There are a lot things that can impact a build. From both sides (customer/builder). Seems like we are only hearing one side of this....and may not be hearing all of that side.
      Last edited by TonyL; 11-03-2008 at 10:29 AM.

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Location
      Nor Cal
      Posts
      2,196
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Grumpy Old Man
      Been lurking here for a while and felt like I needed to chime in here.

      I have a couple of questions:

      I saw some your posts regarding this situation over on Lateral-g.net, did you create an account here simply to rake someone over the coals or what?

      I'm wondering what the status was of the build when you decided to take it out of the shop? I mean were things still progressing? Was the billing/payment schedule being kept to by both sides?

      Is what we are looking at the finished product or still a work in progress?

      Was the rust overlooked or just not gotten to yet?

      I have personally seen a lot of work that has come out of the shop in question and it is top notch work from what I saw and what I have seen at SEMA.

      Not entirely to my taste, but the work did not look anything like what I see in those pictures and each owner I have spoken with has had nothing but good to say about them.

      There are a lot things that can impact a build. From both sides (customer/builder). Seems like we are only hearing one side of this....and may not be hearing all of that side.
      Interesting that this is your first post Grumpy Old Man....

      I have seen this shop's work at SEMA as well and it was nothing like this, but does that mean things cannot go awry as part of a bad deal? Who knows?

      I also would like to see a more detailed response from the shop than the short vague one that was posted thru Jody over at Lateral G.

      I really have no loyalties here and just want to find out what the hell happened with this whole clusterf*ck of a deal.
      Last edited by TonyL; 11-03-2008 at 10:30 AM.
      1968 Camaro widebody project
      2004 Mustang LS2
      1964 Continental
      2014 Keezer

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Posts
      22
      I have built a few cars myself when I was younger (they didn't come out that well), and now that I can afford it I have had a few professionally built cars as well.

      Two I bought complete, and the last two I had built. So I've been down the road a few times and know how situations can go sour or how they can go well.

      Having experienced both sides of this, and been at fault myself a time or two, I can't help but think that Brian isn't giving us, as Mr. Paul Harvey says, "The rest of the story."

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